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  • Hey Uncle,
    Could you take a look at my post on bracing and give a bit of direction.
    Also, If my tank build is placing the bottom panel of glass INSIDE of the others panels as opposed to placing the panels all ON TOP of the bottom does that mean I do not need a plywood top on my stand and/or Styrofoam to help with discrepancies?
    I would appreciate your time if you would take a look at my post on the BeanAnimal thread. It should be the most recent post. I have spent a lot of time reading through this thread but I have somehow missed something and I can't figure it out. Thank you.
    is loctite 349 uv adhesive ( part number#34931) stronger to use with glass aquarium building and is it chemically safe to use for our salt water reefs
    hello my name is steve and having a wholesale glass shop build me a aquarium he gave me a price i couldn't refuse my concern is safety (adhesive,eurobrace,glass thickness,) and I'm afraid the tank could come apart if they use a cheap adhesive whats the strongest adhesive i can use in this build for a saltwater tank? I'm told your the guy when it comes to building tanks
    are there different ways to bond adhesive to a glass aquarium ?

    tank dimensions I'm doing are
    5 feet long
    2 feet high
    2 feet deep
    3/4 inch glass front & back
    3 inch top euro brace
    Hi there,

    Someone mentioned you had some experience building tanks, and I am asking questions specifically about doing a large build. If you could, it would be really cool if you could share some of your input in my thread so that I have one place to go to get all of my information. Either way, I would covet your thoughts on my potential build. I'm hoping to order the bottom piece of glass shortly, so I'll need somebody to give me some answers on that. Thanks for your time, here's the link if you have the time to respond: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2599598
    Thanks for getting back with me. Unfortunately I do not have anyone local that builds aquariums for a living.That being said, do you happen to live around Virginia?

    Since my tank is currently built on top of the base glass I do not have the option of having a floating bottom without ordering different glass..

    So far I know how to disassemble the aquarium and to clean it properly. I plan to build the tank the old fashioned way by placing panels and not injecting silicone. I know which clamps and silicone to use now.

    I have a plan to study as much as I can and do this the right way the first time or not to do it at all.

    That being said, do you have a recommendation for good spacers to use? I am assuming that I leave the spacers in permanently? I only plan to use spacers on the bottom of the tank. I have read to use fishing line, but that seems fishy to me. I will take any advice on building the tank that you are willing to give. Thank you again.
    Uncle, I have decided to rebuild this tank from the ground up. I have found a direct injection method using spacers on Youtube that intrigues me as to the ease of the build. Do you have any thoughts about this?

    I have a couple questions about this build as well if you wouldn't mind to help me clear some things up.

    When placing the side glass onto the bottom glass, is the shear weight going to press too much silicone out of the seam when installed?

    Clamps or no clamps? I have been looking into getting strap clamps with the corner braces instead of using pipe clamps. I have been thinking of using strap clamps along with cabinet clamps around the top edge. Is there a certain amount of silicone that should be used in between the glass panes?

    Should I build the whole tank at one time or install one pane at a time and allow it to dry before installing the remaining sides?
    Hey, I wanted to send you some pictures that I took this morning that are easier to look at. Thank you for your time and knowledge. Let me know what your opinion is on what I should do with this tank.

    Problem is that I didn't haul it away for free, I actually paid for this tank. Of all my aquariums I have installed, even the older ones, none of them have a single bubble in the seals. The glass of the aquarium is indeed in good shape, however I would prefer to not have 210 gallons of water on my floor. This is very unfortunate for me. I have asked to return the tank, so we will see what he says.

    In other words, I would have to reseal this whole tank huh? Is there an easy way to go about resealing a 400lb tank?
    You seem very intelligent when it comes to building and resealing aquariums and I am interested in your opinion. I recently purchased a used 210 gallon aquarium with what seems to be a lot of micro bubbles in between the aquarium seals. I would like it if you could give me your input on the safety of the seals in the aquarium. I am attaching a couple pictures for you to look at. If you could please give me your opinion I would very much appreciate it. I am not looking forward to thought of having to rebuild this aquarium as it is extremely heavy. The pictures I am sending along are with a filled tank that has been sitting with water for about two days now with no leaking issues

    By the way, I am new to the site so I don't have enough Post for the system to allow me to use the private message system. Sorry.
    Thank you for the info. I will try to get my hands on MEK - don't know if they are allowed in California.

    As with the dremel - on my first attempt (the prior build), I had followed the advice via another forum to clean the edge of one of the glass panels with the dremel. I did notice that the edge of the glass panel turned white and coarse. Does this mean the glass panel was damaged? If so, is there a way to fix it?

    Appreciate your advice and guidance.
    Thank you. I m in the process of removing all of the silicone. I plan to use a Dremel with stone tip to lightly sand all of the edges. Is this ok?

    Also, with the first build I noticed a lot of air pockets/bubble in certain areas. I did not use a clamp but instead use painter's tape. This time I plan to use clamps. I also think that I did not put enough bead of silicone - seem to be 1/4 inch bead but need to increase. Do you have any suggestion on getting a clean thick consistent bead silicone?
    I saw you post regarding the Momemtive RTV 100 Series silicone for DIY tank build and tried using the silicone on a small 34 gal build. However, I was not use to the silicone skinning in a short time frame and as a result I did an awful job on the silicone application. It has been 48 hours and I am think of redoing the build. Do you know if it is possible to remove the Momemtive RTV108 completely and salvage the glass for a rebuild? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
    Thank you for following up on my situation with the high NO3 in my tank. I would like to move forward to becoming a reefer, but until I can manage the eco system with nothing (or with what I currently have), I don't want to take the next step. Water quality is in my opinion the most important building block into establishing a healthy environment for my inhabitants. So if you could continue guiding me, I will certainly pay it forward. Thank You.
    Hey Uncle,
    I am trying to help someone create a fish room which is in a facility used often. So wondering on the pumping/plumbing aspect which I have read many things you have posted and trust you more then myself. So DT is a 225 currently has a 55 sump, but this will be removed from under the tank and put in a room about 50 feet away.(AKA fish room) So first question is how can I get water from my display to the sump if I go through the ceiling. Thus no gravity feed as its through the ceiling. Im assuming a 2 pump system one in which water gets pulled from over flow(if thats possible) pushed through ceiling to back fish room. Then pump pulls water from sump and pushes up to ceiling and then water Drops into DT? does this sound even possible without a way to run pipes near the ground. There is a childrens play room and a lobby in the way of just using the ground thats why the ceiling would be ideal. Any thoughts? Thanks

    I saw you posted some help awhile ago for someone trying to wire a latching float switch circuit. I was wondering if you could help me a bit by verifying/fixing my wiring; it is slightly different than the guy you helped.

    I have this relay (DPDT 120V coil):

    I am powering a 24VAC transformer that turns on a sprinkler valve (supply line to RODI filter)

    Here is the image I am using for a reference:

    Does this sound correct?:

    +120VAC to pin 2 (from FS2)

    pin 3 to coil +

    +120VAC to coil + (from FS1)

    24VAC to pin 5

    pin 6 to valve.

    Ground to coil -

    Jumper the output of FS2 to the input of FS1.

    What is the reason for the diode (coil + to -) in the plans you gave the other guy?
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