10 days into cycle&chill and it gives you that look

sirclintler

New member
That seems quick, what did you use to initiate the cycle? My125 took 6 weeks . Your nitrate Reading is meaningless until you show 0 amonia, that being said you might look into a better amonia test kit as the api generaly reads .25 at 0. I dosed my tank to 4ppm amonia and when it was down to zero my nitrates were 80ppm, and my nitrites where gone in a day or two after amonia was gone. Once your amonia is gone add a bit more to verify your cycle is complete, additional ammonia should be turned into nitrates within 24 hrs
 

farfromsea

New member
Nitrite needs to be blue (ammonia addressed as well by a poster above) so just needs more time... Yours looks purple to me unless my eyes deceive me
 

nereefpat

New member
Everything looks as to be expected. As others have said, ammonia and nitrite need to drop back down to zero. Give it a few days and test again.
 

laga77

New member
Laga77 are you showing me that it can be done or that Tom topping used this method,

In the last five years, I have cycled 7 tanks. The longest time was the Seahorse tank because it lacked a heater. Last month, I did a 10G tank using a baseball sized rock from the sump of one of my tanks as a bacteria seed and ammonia from Ace hardware, and it took 16 days. Cycling a tank should take no more than 3 weeks max.
 

Bananafish

New member
16 views from people that at one point all cycled a tank and not one comment or opinion

I just saw this thread. Numbers look good for 10 days. You probably have 15-20 more to go until it's ready, but you might want to retest in a week. As others have said, it's not until Ammonia and Nitrites are zero that you can look at the Nitrates seriously. Don't do any water changes until it's cycled completely, but you should top off with fresh water.

Nothing wrong with using API tests. Don't let anyone rag on you for that or let them try to convince you they're no good. Been using them for decades. I will not pay three to ten times the price for a test kit so I can get half a percent more precision. It's pH. It's either close enough to call as 8.2 or it's too high or too low. Almost the same with Ammonia. You either have none or you have some. Whether it's 0.25 or 0.1645 doesn't matter -- BOTH are high and unsafe.
 

Bananafish

New member
16 views from people that at one point all cycled a tank and not one comment or opinion

Why do people try to force replies to their threads?

Forcing replies????


Seems that Spiffy thinks your comment about 16 views with no opinions was to force us to reply to you. This forum topic gets a lot of traffic, and the threads are listed in reverse time of response order. So, if 30 old threads have replies posted since you put up a new topic, they will show higher up on the list. A person who reads the forum frequently (like me, for instance) will see the list of 30 old threads and not look for something new because "Oh, I've seen all those."
 

Tomtopping

New member
I just saw this thread. Numbers look good for 10 days. You probably have 15-20 more to go until it's ready, but you might want to retest in a week. As others have said, it's not until Ammonia and Nitrites are zero that you can look at the Nitrates seriously. Don't do any water changes until it's cycled completely, but you should top off with fresh water.

Nothing wrong with using API tests. Don't let anyone rag on you for that or let them try to convince you they're no good. Been using them for decades. I will not pay three to ten times the price for a test kit so I can get half a percent more precision. It's pH. It's either close enough to call as 8.2 or it's too high or too low. Almost the same with Ammonia. You either have none or you have some. Whether it's 0.25 or 0.1645 doesn't matter -- BOTH are high and unsafe.

Awesome thanks man
 
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