2nd edition Initial Reef Setup -- Needs & Consider

jnb

Premium Member
Initial Reef Setup -- Needs & Consider ((edited by jnb))

Disclaimer: This is by no means a complete list and there will always be some disagreement regarding categorization, but by and large, this list represents a general community consensus among Reef Central hobbyists (Nov,2008).

Definitely Need
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GFCI - It can SAVE LIFE. One for each wall outlet in use. but can turn off needed equipment while you are away


Surge-Protector - Will NOT save life. Keep it dry.
get quality metal ones - there have been fires caused by cheapy's

Aquarium - Acrylic is an option, but the need to scrape coraline-algae means you'll probably want glass.
you can scape acrylic but watch out for scratching, acrylic is lighter, stronger, more clear but requires special care not for everyone but neither is my S2000

Lighting - T5 and PowerCompact are both fluorescent and work best with individual reflectors. Metal-Halide give a lot of light intensity, but add a lot of heat. Different pets have different intensity requirements. High intensity can create often desirable ripples of light on rock and sand.
T5 can blast out light too.

Powerhead - For display-tank water turbulence, unless using closed-loop.
many do not want 5+ tank flow turnover per hour (skimmer may like it slower and slowing it down makes less noise) so they slow down main flow and supplement overflow with powerheads

Heater - Two smaller heaters instead of one big one can offer benefits.
get a controller - many - thermostats stick and kill your tanks life - some hardware should be redundant

Thermometer - More than one can be a good idea.
better yet - one very accurate one - digital does not equate to accurate

Protein Skimmer - Bigger is better (generally).
well really - there are effective skimmers which does not mean they have to be large

Reverse Osmosis and/or DeIonizer - Tap water is rarely suitable.
for reefs tap is NO!

Buckets, Vinyl Tubing, & Towels - For the containment and transfer of corrosive solvents, such as fresh and salt water.

Sea Salt & Hydrometer or Refractometer - For salinity/specific-gravity.
throw away the swingarms and calibrate the refractometer or saltinity pen

Test Kits - Depends and not limited to: Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ph, Alkalinity, Phosphate, and Calcium.


Liverock - Required by definition.

Coraline-Algae Scraper
make sure to use a plastic one for acrylic

Potentially Need
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Silicone Glue - REEF-SAFE ONLY! Duct-tape of the sea. ;)

PVC Glue - For "slip" fittings that when properly glued are less likely to leak than "threaded".

Teflon-Tape - For threaded PVC.

Overflow-Box - If using a sump and not included in your aquarium.

Bulkheads - For DIY overflow unless siphon-overflow; For DIY sump with inline return-pump.

Return-Pump - A must for a sump. Add a ball-valve to the return-line to control flow and stop back-flow when pump is off.
and most pumps do not mind being throttled down and will draw less watts...

Chiller - Some hobbyists get by without one, but don't assume you can. Tho a simple fan might suffice.
i would say many can get away with if thought out

Chiller-Pump - Chillers don't pump their own water. Some hobbyists use a split return-line while others use a separate pump.
some don't need to be plumbed and those that do can also often be run inline.

UPS or Battery Air Pump - For power outages.
or portable generator

Syringe - To kill unwanted pests.
and a multitude of other uses


Probably Want
-------------------

Sand Bed - Bare-bottom is possible, but otherwise 1/2" to 1" unless Deep Sand Bed, then at least 3" (4" is better) to 6". Deep Sand Beds have special needs.
however, there are advantages to dsb

Grounding-Probe - Because your fish can't cry for help. Offers no safety to human beings.
hmmm - grounding probes complete the circuit and fish feel that - and they do offer safety to humans under some circumstances, but they can also effect when a actually ground fault protector trips - in a bad way - study up on this before installation

Fish-Net & Gloves - For your own health as well as your pets.

Activated Carbon - In a reactor/canister rather than passive.
passive can be ok - just know how it is being used and what adjustments to make

Micron Sock - In a sump, it controls bubbles, reduces noise, and can reduce evaporation. Keep it clean.
but most do not use - it captures useful life that corals, etc can use - but yes, do keep them clean

Timers - Mostly for lights, unless using a controller.

Magnetic Algae Scraper - Works on most curves and corners.
make sure there is no sand underneath it - it can scratch glass and fun to use and better yet if they float

Vinegar - For outside cleaning of glass.
and for eating away calcium buildup on pumps, etc - don't use on acrylic tanks

Turkey Baster - To spot feed, blow sand off rocks and corals, suck up stray algae, and gently prod your pets.

Unions - If using PVC, often essential for disassembly and maintenance.


Good to Have
-------------------

Log Book - Because you won't remember and you'll wish you could. :]

Quarantine Tank - Separate tank for isolating pets and keeping your main tank healthy. Can prevent a much larger issue before it ever starts.

Sump - Keeps equipment out of sight and can make maintenance easier. It can take many forms and is a frequent DIY hobby.
and offers a multitude of options

Refugium - Ideally with a separately controlled slow flow. Ideally above and draining into the display tank, but many hobbyist adjoin it to the sump.


Acclimator - For drip acclimating your new pets.

TDS Meter - Measures conductivity and most calibrate to temperature for testing the quality of your RO/DI water.

Intake Screen - To prevent damage to inline return-pump.

Modular-Tubing (loc-line) - To control return flow.
controls direction

Epoxy Putty - REEF-SAFE ONLY! For all those great aquascaping ideas.
but watch out, it can meake a skimmer go crazy (for a while)

Silicone Grease - REEF-SAFE ONLY! Should be applied to bulkheads with care; There are several theories on best practice.

Eggcrate - Can be found in the lighting department of Home Depot. Hobbyists like to use it in many constructive ways.

Micron Sock (extra) - Great material for cutting up and using in various ways.

Labels - For the plugs in your surge-protector.


Worth Considering
-------------------

Fan - Possibly for cooling of equipment, or cooling water by increased evaporation.
and great for swishing away heat from between a light and the water before the water absorbs this heat - can be controlled by a controller (on/off with temp changes)

Flood Alarm - Reef-safe sedative for hobbyists. ;)

Level Alarm - Keeps an eye on your water line so you don't have to.


Temperature Alarm - For peace of mind.

Heater Controller - Protects against faulty heaters.
as expanded above

Tongs - Very helpful in larger tanks.

Magnetic clips - For holding heaters, tubing, and cords, instead of suction cups.
yes, suctions cups will let go - a promise

Calcium Reactor - Best for large reefs.
hmmm, best for many sized reefs depending on calcium uptake by our tanks' life

UV-Sterilizer - Not a necessity, unless it becomes one. ;)

Ozone - It has drawbacks, but there are those who use it.
it has it's advantages as well - just study up on it

Gate/Globe-Valve - Larger but more precise than a ball-valve.

Check-Valve - Can prevent overflow of sump due to back-flow. Not always 100% effective on short water columns, due to insufficient pressure to seal.
not even 70% effective and they can slow down flow- but nice in certain instances

Flow Meter - For when you need to know.

45* PVC - Provide less restricted flow, but can be more difficult to align than 90* elbows.

Automatic Top-Off - From a separate reservoir.

Plankton Reactor - Because you want it all! Link multiples together to create a full food-chain. :]
give a link to one please

Controller - For the truly advanced hobbyist.
I would say for the truly interested hobbyist - can control temp., lights, dawn/dusk light transitions, devices that involve PH, ATO's, alarms, can offer remote switching of devices,


Demands Consideration
-------------------

Personal Relations - A supportive significant other can be half the battle.

Prohibitive Cost - Requires large open credit line or substantial cash on hand.

I am not sure why I felt compelled to add to this - maybe because I wanted a tank of water and it evolved to a reef. If I had tripped across anything that would have made be slow down and study beforehand or at least quicker I would not have spent so much on upgrades along the way - an example? I started out with PC lighting, went to T5, went to MH, went to LED, went back to a different MH and now to T5. Oh, and I have had 6 skimmers in as many years
 
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