72 day fallow question
- Thread starter 2_zoa
- Start date
Shia
New member
Wow, you were not messing around with quarantining your clean up crew. So a lot of these numbers are determined by observing the life cycle of the parasite. At this stage I would imagine your probability of having the parasite in your system to be less than 1%. There is always a very rare odd ball chance that the parasite is in a dormant phase and may still survive. Also in terms of adding fish, are you planning on quarantining them prior to adding into your display? If not then you may introduce ICH or other parasites into your DT.
i've been reefing for 13 yrs... yikes...unlucky #
anyway, i kept losing Tang after Tang after Tang for yeeeeears to ICH. Tried every conceivable solution. I now have a two step approach and havent lost a single Tang in 3 years.
1) bought an African Cleaner Wrasse. It eats ICH right off every fish in the tank. it also eats all kinds of stuff off the scales and all my fish have nice bright scales showing lots of color. the wrasse MUST MUST MUST be an "African" Cleaner Wrasse. If its NOT marketed as an "African" dont buy it! All other will starve to death. The African eats the fish food I put in the tank as well as keeping all fish scales clean:
2) In my corner overflow i use a 15watt submersible UVC sterilizer like the one show below. It MUST be labeled and sold using the "UV-C" name. UV-C is the lightwave that kills parasites and other nasty stuff in the water column. They are being sold all over eBay. I replace the unit once a year and use it 12hrs a day. Not only will your water turn crystal-clear (bc it kills any green algae in the water column).... it kills parasites.
Now.... I'm sure posters will say this two step process doesn't work and you need to go in a different direction. All I know is i haven't lost a Tang in over 3years and these two steps above have spelled s.u.c.c.e.s.s. for me.
anyway, i kept losing Tang after Tang after Tang for yeeeeears to ICH. Tried every conceivable solution. I now have a two step approach and havent lost a single Tang in 3 years.
1) bought an African Cleaner Wrasse. It eats ICH right off every fish in the tank. it also eats all kinds of stuff off the scales and all my fish have nice bright scales showing lots of color. the wrasse MUST MUST MUST be an "African" Cleaner Wrasse. If its NOT marketed as an "African" dont buy it! All other will starve to death. The African eats the fish food I put in the tank as well as keeping all fish scales clean:
2) In my corner overflow i use a 15watt submersible UVC sterilizer like the one show below. It MUST be labeled and sold using the "UV-C" name. UV-C is the lightwave that kills parasites and other nasty stuff in the water column. They are being sold all over eBay. I replace the unit once a year and use it 12hrs a day. Not only will your water turn crystal-clear (bc it kills any green algae in the water column).... it kills parasites.
Now.... I'm sure posters will say this two step process doesn't work and you need to go in a different direction. All I know is i haven't lost a Tang in over 3years and these two steps above have spelled s.u.c.c.e.s.s. for me.
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Yes. completely 100% sealed and submersible. you can get a 15watter for around $30-40.
Just dont let the light shine on any coral as it will kill the coral. i have mine submerged in the corner overflow with NO light shining in the tank.
Also dont expose your face to this light. It will give you a sunburn on your face with as little as 10-15mins worth of exposure.
Just dont let the light shine on any coral as it will kill the coral. i have mine submerged in the corner overflow with NO light shining in the tank.
Also dont expose your face to this light. It will give you a sunburn on your face with as little as 10-15mins worth of exposure.
EDITED.... look at these choices. You MUST specify the U.S. AC plug:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6W10W-15W-...hash=item3625b01a9f:m:mGGUdH8dCYkg97QclMHQ7kw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6W10W-15W-...hash=item3625b01a9f:m:mGGUdH8dCYkg97QclMHQ7kw
nereefpat
New member
72 days is the longest ich has been reported to stay in the substrate. So to complete its life cycle can take another couple days.
I would wait another couple of days, just to be sure, since you've come this far.
If you are putting all new fish through ttm, then there isn't any reason to mess with UV for ich reasons. UV isn't a proven method of dealing with ich, since it only will kill free-swimming ich that happens to go through the UV.
I would wait another couple of days, just to be sure, since you've come this far.
If you are putting all new fish through ttm, then there isn't any reason to mess with UV for ich reasons. UV isn't a proven method of dealing with ich, since it only will kill free-swimming ich that happens to go through the UV.
Nereefpat, thank you. I’ve actually spent the last 2 hours doing more reading on this only to come back to the thread to see your post. The new to me recommended time frame is 76 days.
I’ve found out that the case of the “72 day survivor”, was a lab case study. Where the water in the flask was kept slightly cooler than our tanks. It was also kept sterile with antibiotics. There’s a letter posted from the co author about the study. Where he states that the cooler water could have caused a slowed metabolism and the lack of bacteria could have caused the ability to survive that long. He also wouldn’t recommend any specific time frame other than sometime within the 72 days should be sufficient because of the less than perfect flask conditions during the study.
At least that’s my take on what I’ve read. Though the 76 days is still the recommended time frame.
Edit; since I’m doing the QT process. My flow rate through the UV is to clarify the water. Not kill bugs or control ich.
I’ve found out that the case of the “72 day survivor”, was a lab case study. Where the water in the flask was kept slightly cooler than our tanks. It was also kept sterile with antibiotics. There’s a letter posted from the co author about the study. Where he states that the cooler water could have caused a slowed metabolism and the lack of bacteria could have caused the ability to survive that long. He also wouldn’t recommend any specific time frame other than sometime within the 72 days should be sufficient because of the less than perfect flask conditions during the study.
At least that’s my take on what I’ve read. Though the 76 days is still the recommended time frame.
Edit; since I’m doing the QT process. My flow rate through the UV is to clarify the water. Not kill bugs or control ich.
Nereefpat....you state there is no reason to mess aroind with UVC germicidal sterilization. My question to you is...why not use it?
Even if it only kills 25% of the free flowing ICH eggs flowing around...its 25% more kill than just standing in front of your tank with your arms folded.
UVC has cleared my water to crystal clear. Hasnt negatively effects any corals, fish, inverts, lil copepod, the good lil bugs thst live in the LR.
I cant find a single reason not to use UVC as a preventative measure against a list of bad parasites in the water column.
"Booksmarters" say UVC is ok at best. they also say it weakens plastic. BONK! it may put a slight brown discoloration on the plastic but in the 3yrs ive been using UVC my plastic near it is as strong as Day 1. I kniw bc ive inspected the plastic pipes inside my overflow that has been expsed the UVC light for 3 yrs. No softening. No weakening.
"Streetsmart USERS" like me are seeing r.e.s.u.l.t.s.
Even if it only kills 25% of the free flowing ICH eggs flowing around...its 25% more kill than just standing in front of your tank with your arms folded.
UVC has cleared my water to crystal clear. Hasnt negatively effects any corals, fish, inverts, lil copepod, the good lil bugs thst live in the LR.
I cant find a single reason not to use UVC as a preventative measure against a list of bad parasites in the water column.
"Booksmarters" say UVC is ok at best. they also say it weakens plastic. BONK! it may put a slight brown discoloration on the plastic but in the 3yrs ive been using UVC my plastic near it is as strong as Day 1. I kniw bc ive inspected the plastic pipes inside my overflow that has been expsed the UVC light for 3 yrs. No softening. No weakening.
"Streetsmart USERS" like me are seeing r.e.s.u.l.t.s.
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nereefpat
New member
Since everything entering this reefer's tank will either go through ttm or 72 fallow days, there will never be ich in this tank.
UV can help clear water of bacterial or algal blooms in certain situations, but folks here will not recommend it to cure a disease, nor is it a substitute for QT.
Nereefpat....you state there is no reason to mess aroind with UVC germicidal sterilization. My question to you is...why not use it?
Even if it only kills 25% of the free flowing ICH eggs flowing around...its 25% more kill than just standing in front of your tank with your arms folded.
UVC has cleared my water to crystal clear. Hasnt negatively effects any corals, fish, inverts, lil copepod, the good lil bugs thst live in the LR.
I cant find a single reason not to use UVC as a preventative measure against a list of bad parasites in the water column.
"Booksmarters" say UVC is ok at best. they also say it weakens plastic. BONK! it may put a slight brown discoloration on the plastic but in the 3yrs ive been using UVC my plastic near it is as strong as Day 1. I kniw bc ive inspected the plastic pipes inside my overflow that has been expsed the UVC light for 3 yrs. No softening. No weakening.
"Streetsmart USERS" like me are seeing r.e.s.u.l.t.s.
I for one have used just a UV sterilizor to rid a DT of ick on numerous occasions over the years in my maintenance business. But I would much rather make sure it never gets into a system at all. 2_Zoas QT protocal is commendable. As for a UV sterilizor weakening plastic it most certainly will. I can say this from personal experience breaking one in my hands. Your "3 years" isn't necessarily long enough and just because you can't deflect the plastic yet doesn't mean it's not weaker.
