A good process for removing BIO Balls?

[edrock200]

Hello all,

I have a sump with a wet/dry filter sitting in it. My water cycles as such:

Tank --> overflow (w/ sponge) --> wet dry (filter floss + bio balls) --> sump (protein skimmer, UV, heater, etc) --> return pump

Since being a member of RC it seems that bio balls = more work in maintaining your reef tank without much benefit. I'd like to get rid of the bio balls and have a few questions.

my tank is a 72 bow front + 20 gallon sump. I have 120 lbs live sand + 180 lbs live rock.

If I remove 20% of my bio balls a week, is this to quick or is this a decent rate of removal?

Once I remove the bio balls, should I get rid of the wet/dry alltogether, ie empty the filter floss and bio balls and just let the water fall through the empty system?

Does filter floss/sponges in the wet dry contribute to nitrates? What about in the overflow? It seems like somewhere a mechanical filtration device should exist to get out large particles floating in the water, no?

Should I be adding anything to make up for the removal of the bio balls or is my skimmer/livesand/liverock enough?

TIA,
-Ed

 

[Ti]

sounds fine

 

[Fast Fred]

Your plan for removing the bio-balls sounds perfect.

As for Q2: Mechanical filtration is a good thing IMO. As long as you keep it clean, and change it frequently, there should be no problem. If you can post a link or a pic of the sump you have someone might even have a better idea for you.

 

[edrock200]

Thanks for the info/advise guys. Theres a good pic of the sump here:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/janet/tank_stuff01
Second row, fourth from the right. Here's a description:

On the left is a calc reactor crammed in there. You can see the wet dry on the left as well with the intake on top, the sponge in the top chamber, and the bio balls in the second chamber. On the right theres a protein skimmer with a ghetto water dampener In the middle, a bit hidden from view was a breeder tank with chaeto algae in it however I removed it. Once I added my UV filter the chaeto started dying, and the only reason I added it was to combat algae in my main tank, which was achieved with snails and the UV.

 

[EricBrian]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7188858#post7188858 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by edrock200
Thanks for the info/advise guys. Theres a good pic of the sump here:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/janet/tank_stuff01
Second row, fourth from the right. Here's a description:

On the left is a calc reactor crammed in there. You can see the wet dry on the left as well with the intake on top, the sponge in the top chamber, and the bio balls in the second chamber. On the right theres a protein skimmer with a ghetto water dampener In the middle, a bit hidden from view was a breeder tank with chaeto algae in it however I removed it. Once I added my UV filter the chaeto started dying, and the only reason I added it was to combat algae in my main tank, which was achieved with snails and the UV.

Heya... Who makes that light you have on top of your tank?

Thanks.

 

[Fast Fred]

In the drip tray area, the top section should remain filter floss or filter felt. I prefer the felt myself, but whatever works for you. The second section, where the bioballs are now could be used for a mesh bag full of carbon, or some other media. Just be sure to change it monthly so it doesn't become another bio-filter. It also looks possible that once you remove the bio-balls, you may even consider raising the water level in the sump just a little. Just don't raise it so high that it can't handle a power outage.

 

[edrock200]

On top of the maintank? It's an Outer Orbit HQI lighting system.

 

[edrock200]

Thanks Fast Fred,
I've been going back and forth on adding carbon...I thought they can add to nitrates too, no? I will raise the water line as soon as my check valve comes in for the water pump, then I won't have to worry about power outtages or my sensative GFIs.