? about RO/DI auto shut off

ctniners

New member
I am getting ready to start a new project and for my water station I want to use a ro/di shut off valve....here are my questions

1. When you use it to fill up your container, do you leave the water valve (from the house pipe) to the ro/di unit always on? or do you leave it on until is filled and shut it off after the container is full?


2. Maybe this is only happening with my ro/di unit but every time i have to make water it takes about 5 minutes or so (maybe a little less) for the water to hit the 0 tds mark...when you guys make water, do you unhook the tubing from the shut off float valve to drain the first water that comes out or do you just leave it hooked up to the container all the time and dont worry about it.

maybe silly questions but i rather ask...thanks a lot for the help
 
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Good luck getting that to work (shut off)...I bought the flow restrictor, the auto shutoff thingie, the flush kit AND the float valve ...

I got a run-o-mill Coralife 50 GPD unit, 32gal brute, coralife (or Kent) float valve and nuttin out the ordinary....

I'll be following this thread for a solution or evidence of my idiocy (whatever comes 1st)
 
I am getting ready to start a new project and for my water station I want to use a ro/di shut off valve....here are my questions

1. When you use it to fill up your container, do you leave the water valve (from the house pipe) to the ro/di unit always on? or do you leave it on until is filled and shut it off after the container is full?


2. Maybe this is only happening with my ro/di unit but every time i have to make water it takes about 5 minutes or so (maybe a little less) for the water to hit the 0 tds mark...when you guys make water, do you unhook the tubing from the shut off float valve to drain the first water that comes out or do you just leave it hooked up to the container all the time and dont wotrry about it.

maybe silly questions but i rather ask...thanks a lot for the help
I have the auto shut off as well, from SpectraPure... and I turn the water off between fills. Reason being is that since the flow stops anyway there is no point keeping the flow on because as soon as I lift the lid w/the float the water will start flowing again. But that's not the main reason actually. The main reason is what you described in your 2nd point.

BTW, there are no silly questions... some people do have a knack for real dumb a** answers though LOL...

Ok, so your point 2... yes it is known that this is what happens when you (re)start flow through a RO/DI system. That's just how it works... and the longer you keep the same media the longer it will keep taking to zero out the TDS. Really its' the 2nd TDS number that counts - the one after the DI resin (or the one taken from the water after all the stages) because that's what goes into your tank. At some point it will just nor zero itself which will mean you need new filter media. That said, it's not the end of the world if it's 1 or 2 but not much more and you do need to get new filter then.

Oh, and I do pour off the water that had non-0 TDS when I re-starta Ro-Di session.

Spacey :D
 
Good luck getting that to work (shut off)...I bought the flow restrictor, the auto shutoff thingie, the flush kit AND the float valve ...

I got a run-o-mill Coralife 50 GPD unit, 32gal brute, coralife (or Kent) float valve and nuttin out the ordinary....

I'll be following this thread for a solution or evidence of my idiocy (whatever comes 1st)
Well... I have the auto shut off kit too... but from SpectraPure... and I have it working fully. That said, it took me a while to get it to work. Here is why (in my case). The actual float shutting off the flow of clean/product water worked as advertised from the start for me. After all it's a relative simple device. But... I had a helluva time getting the waste water to stop as well. After all product water is really just 1/4 of what the waste water volume is, so you really want to shut off waste water.

Two key elements in addition to the float valve...

1) pressure tank - I have a small pressure tank (1/2 gal or 1 gal or something like that) w/bladder inside.
2) check valve in the waste line (or as RO/DI & shut off valve kit instructions state).

Both are critical to the waste water stopping. Initially when they sent me the kit they forgot to include the check valve and I put everything together w/out one... and couldn't figure out why it didn't work. Only after lengthy chat w/the SpectraPure guy, I think that's one of the owners - guy definitely knows his stuff, it became apparent that a) they didn't include the check valve, and b) it's critical for this to work. Guy apologized, sent the valve, I put it in and presto all was well.

So... moral of the story... make sure you got all the pieces and they are hooked up right. Go to SpectraPure or Air / Water / Ice site and check their stuff out. they have most of the system schematics on line so you can look the stuff up ... its all pretty much standard / exchangeable parts. Unless of course you happen to have a Kent Marine RODI in which case you are screwed because it all proprietary and you have to pay them $30 for each screw.

Good luck!

Spacey :D
 
So....i was thinking of buying the brs kit..i dont know if i am allowed to put a link to their kit...but i am wondering if they include all the pieces i need including the piece i need to stop the waste water line
 
So....i was thinking of buying the brs kit..i dont know if i am allowed to put a link to their kit...but i am wondering if they include all the pieces i need including the piece i need to stop the waste water line
Their *Plus* packagedoes not include the auto shutoff valve but it does include the float valve... which make no sense - I did a DIY kit and saveed $40

5 stage w/DI
auto shutoff (pre-installed)
float valve
garden hose adapter
flush kit(pre-installed)

$183.00
 
I guess in a way if the goal is not to get water all over the floor then the clean water is the important to shut off...usually the waste water is already going to a drain...
 
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