Advice on decent RO/DI unit?
- Thread starter sodaman
- Start date
Naperville Reef
New member
sodaman.... what made you decide to buy from PurelyH2O? i am going to buy a RO/DI unit as well and had all but decided to buy the Typhoon III until i read this thread. i need to research the H2O product but am curious to know what swayed you to them.
thanks
rob
thanks
rob
sodaman
New member
After discussing the Pros with Bryan, I believe this unit will handle choramines better than the Typhoon. Another benefit - a fixed inline tds meter as well as a handheld. Typhoon only comes with a handheld. I was a little concerned about the 1 micron sediment filter vs. the 10 that Typhoon recommends (from reading the explaination on the Typhoon website). I researched this a little further and it looks like almost everyone is using a low micron sediment filters except for Typhoon. It maybe a wash. May have to change sediment filter more often but the carbons are more protected and will prolong their life. The Typhoon sediment filter may need changing less often but you may end up changing all 3 at the same time rather than just the sediment filter. Not sure about this though.
Back to the point - The main fact that made up my mind was the 3rd stage Catalytic Carbon that removes chloramines better than a normal carbon block.
Back to the point - The main fact that made up my mind was the 3rd stage Catalytic Carbon that removes chloramines better than a normal carbon block.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
I prefer the Typhoons arrangement of 10, 5, 1 micron prefilter and carbons. You should be changing all your filters every 6 months anyway but by having the filters only trap what is in their micron range they each carry a share of the load and wear out, if you will, at the same time. With a 1 micron prefilter you may possibly be changing the prefilter 2 or even three times as often and necessary in some cases.
To each his own and both build excellent systems but as a trained and certified water treatment professional the 10, 5, 1 makes more sense to me.
To each his own and both build excellent systems but as a trained and certified water treatment professional the 10, 5, 1 makes more sense to me.
purelyh2o
New member
Yeah
Yeah
That is an age old debate between Walter and I.
I prefer to keep the filter range at 1 micron for the simple fact that the 1 micron sediment filter is very in expensive and will offer better protection to the other filters downstream. Very rarely and I mean Very rarely do I see these filters clogg before the 6 month period and when or if they did you would only need to replace the sediment filter. The gradient system is fine in my opinion but is better suited for situations when the filters are not monitored like in a drinking water system. I prefer that the sediment filter do its job so that the carbon blocks or block can do what they were intended to do, Remove caustics. The amount of surface area in a carbon block is prescious and needed for the filter to work correctly. Bombarding this filter with sediment that could have been removed by the sediment filter causes limitations in the filters ability to do its job correctly. This is why I and many other companies do not use the gradient system..Truths out
Yeah
That is an age old debate between Walter and I.
I prefer to keep the filter range at 1 micron for the simple fact that the 1 micron sediment filter is very in expensive and will offer better protection to the other filters downstream. Very rarely and I mean Very rarely do I see these filters clogg before the 6 month period and when or if they did you would only need to replace the sediment filter. The gradient system is fine in my opinion but is better suited for situations when the filters are not monitored like in a drinking water system. I prefer that the sediment filter do its job so that the carbon blocks or block can do what they were intended to do, Remove caustics. The amount of surface area in a carbon block is prescious and needed for the filter to work correctly. Bombarding this filter with sediment that could have been removed by the sediment filter causes limitations in the filters ability to do its job correctly. This is why I and many other companies do not use the gradient system..Truths out
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Ya,
That's one of those subjects that will be debated forever. I suppose if truth be known even with a 10 micron prefilter, once it has an initial coating of debris 99% of the suspendeds are probably trapped there and don't pass on to the carbons. I have experienced premature failures here in Arizona though with finer filters. Some of our municipal water systems are still on groundwater and others are recently converted so there is still some residual solids in the distribution system.
For those who are on a surface water system that has been that way for years it is of less concern unless there is major construction in the area that may disturb the water system and possibly change flow patterns or velocities and stir stuff up. I guarantee you every water distribution system has debris in it somewhere even if they have excellent treatment and flushing programs.
Again Bryan and Walter/and the other Bryan (not to be confused with the first Bryan) both build excellent systems and either will more than get the job done!!!
That's one of those subjects that will be debated forever. I suppose if truth be known even with a 10 micron prefilter, once it has an initial coating of debris 99% of the suspendeds are probably trapped there and don't pass on to the carbons. I have experienced premature failures here in Arizona though with finer filters. Some of our municipal water systems are still on groundwater and others are recently converted so there is still some residual solids in the distribution system.
For those who are on a surface water system that has been that way for years it is of less concern unless there is major construction in the area that may disturb the water system and possibly change flow patterns or velocities and stir stuff up. I guarantee you every water distribution system has debris in it somewhere even if they have excellent treatment and flushing programs.
Again Bryan and Walter/and the other Bryan (not to be confused with the first Bryan) both build excellent systems and either will more than get the job done!!!
purelyh2o
New member
Fantastic Words!
Fantastic Words!
AZDesertRat
This is definitely chalked up as a matter of preference and Each configuration will definitely work. Walter has as many years logged in as I do and we are just going on what we know best to work. I have had great success with the fine system and Im sure has been happy with the gradiant. Its not hard to change either way and different applications require different measures.
Fantastic Words!
AZDesertRat
This is definitely chalked up as a matter of preference and Each configuration will definitely work. Walter has as many years logged in as I do and we are just going on what we know best to work. I have had great success with the fine system and Im sure has been happy with the gradiant. Its not hard to change either way and different applications require different measures.
Killjoysgal
New member
RO/DI Inquiry
RO/DI Inquiry
Hi Folks,
I'm looking into purchasing a RO/DI unit (because lugging 25g to the second story just isn't my idea of fun and in AZ that means doing so a couple times a week probably...), and I have a few questions.
I noticed that PurelyH20 lists aquarium specific systems, such as the Optima CA. Are systems listed as aquarium specific only suitable for aquariums? Would I not be able to T off the line and use it for improving drinking and cooking water?
Additionally, there are many mentions of Buckeye Supply, Air Water Ice, and Purely H20. Where are the RC discounts listed?
Thanks for the help,
-Amy
RO/DI Inquiry
Hi Folks,
I'm looking into purchasing a RO/DI unit (because lugging 25g to the second story just isn't my idea of fun and in AZ that means doing so a couple times a week probably...), and I have a few questions.
I noticed that PurelyH20 lists aquarium specific systems, such as the Optima CA. Are systems listed as aquarium specific only suitable for aquariums? Would I not be able to T off the line and use it for improving drinking and cooking water?
Additionally, there are many mentions of Buckeye Supply, Air Water Ice, and Purely H20. Where are the RC discounts listed?
Thanks for the help,
-Amy
Just curious if any of you "experts" think I would benefit with a catalytic carbon stage--- my source is well water after a softener. Chloroamines come from treating tap water (city water) correct???
I'm not in the market for a unit as I am running a spectrapure and its working just fine, but may replumb (add on to) my prefilters......
thanks..
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
It is easy to install a drinking water system with any of the units supplied by the vendors you listed. I have mine hooked up through a DI for aquarium use as well as to my icemaker and drinking water RO faucets at both the kitchen and laundry sinks. I presently have 2 of the 5 gallon presure tanks so I get between 6.6 and 7 gallons of pressurized water before it starts to trickle. This makes it nice for filling 5G water bottles. I need to hit Bryan and others up for a price on a 15 or 20 gallon pressure tank so I can get even more at a time!
I am not sure where the discounts are listed but I have always asked and given my Reef Central screen name for any current discounts.
I am not sure where the discounts are listed but I have always asked and given my Reef Central screen name for any current discounts.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
If you are on a private well with no chloramination treatment (chloramines) you probably wouldn't gain much if anything by using catalytic carbon. Unless you have specific volatile organic chemical or metals problems regular GAC or carbon blocks should work fine.
Thanks... I've heard of it mentioned before, just didn't know if it would provide me with any benefit...
My water is not treated other then... pump, waterboss water softenter....
I have 2 ROs: one for drinking exclusively, and the second a spectrapure (RO/DI) I picked up used for $75.... I may get rid of my original unit and just use the spectrapure for everything... my orginal unit is a GE unit with a 96% rejection-- it does have small pressure tank (1.25 gallons) but is only rated for 25 GPD.. my Spectrapure is 98% rejection and makes around 50 GPD.... of course I woud need the time to do mess them...
My water is not treated other then... pump, waterboss water softenter....
I have 2 ROs: one for drinking exclusively, and the second a spectrapure (RO/DI) I picked up used for $75.... I may get rid of my original unit and just use the spectrapure for everything... my orginal unit is a GE unit with a 96% rejection-- it does have small pressure tank (1.25 gallons) but is only rated for 25 GPD.. my Spectrapure is 98% rejection and makes around 50 GPD.... of course I woud need the time to do mess them...
purelyh2o
New member
Killjoysgal
Killjoysgal
Im sorry about that I didnt even see your post when you put it up. Our website actually has a place where you can enter your Reef Central Discount code. Just figure out what you need add it to the cart and at checkout you will be prompted to enter the discount code. The 10% code for Reef Central members is RCDJB8HL Just cut that in and the website will discount your order 10%
Easy
Killjoysgal
Im sorry about that I didnt even see your post when you put it up. Our website actually has a place where you can enter your Reef Central Discount code. Just figure out what you need add it to the cart and at checkout you will be prompted to enter the discount code. The 10% code for Reef Central members is RCDJB8HL Just cut that in and the website will discount your order 10%
Easy
I am also looking into buying a new RODI. I have a question though. I am debating between the Typhoon III, Eskimo, Optima, and Optima advanced. I noticed the Typhoon offers 75 or 100gpd filters, the eskimo offers 150 or 200, and the optima units are 75. Why should I go with the 75 filter when I could go with the 100, 150, or 200? What is the advantage? disadvantage? I have phosphates in my water so I will need a unit that will help with that.
purelyh2o
New member
You answered your own question
The 100 gpd membrane only rejects 90% of the incoming TDS. It is designed for high flow and compromises quality for quantity.
The 75 gpd membrane has a 98% rejection rate. If you are trying to make sure certain things are removed from the water you need the 75 gpd membrane.
crumbletop
New member
I think the Eskimo uses 2 of the 75 gpd membranes so I think it should be at least as good as the 75 gpd units. I think the DI is what generally gets the phosphates.
Jack
Jack
tigerarmy40
New member
Bryan I want to say thanks for yoiur help! I havnt received my unit yet but you absolutely took care of me with a free upgrade and hopefully a tds meter that I didnt ask you about until after the sale was complete!! thanks again and for you guys still wondering if you should get a purely unit I say go for it!!!
tigerarmy40
New member
price!?
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