Anemone Start-up

ctripi

New member
Refer to discussion in "Possible Tank Breakdown" Thread too.


So my thoughts for an "lower maintenance than a 135g full-blown mixed SPS reef" is to establish a Anemone and Clownfish display.

I'm thinking about a 95g (36"x24"x25") or something similar. I want to stay on the smaller side than my current 135g.

Probably bare-bottom display.

Sump will include chaeto and skimmer section. Not sure what dimensions for sump but there seems to be alot of 55g tanks for sale cheap.

Will be using parts from 135g including 250w halides and T5 actinics, euro-reef skimmer, ATO, and Ranco temp controller.

Probably will use powerheads for flow. I'm aware that powerheads can shred Anemones but I like the ease of maintenance and power savings as compared to a closed loop. But maybe powerheads in a smaller tank wouldn't look that great.

Please help me refine my ideas.
 
Sounds like a good plan. I've noticed a lot of people using vortechs with the foam covers in anemone tanks.
 
I saw information about covering the PHead intakes. Will keep in mind.....but shoot.....how fast do BTA move? I mean, can I predict a problem with them move?

Based on cost....I might end up using a 4'x2'x2' display. 1/3rd the cost of the original thought. Will have combined internal/external overflow. Will drill three bulkhead to facilitate flow from internal to external. Will use Jacobs/Joshua's thoughs for drains.

Other questions.....

So I plan mostly on having fish, zoanthids, ricordeas and anemones. But might keep options open for LPS later on. I do have a large Duncan that I might keep (LAK's old coral that now is about the size of a soft ball).

Q: Should I consider just dosing for Ca/Alk (or use a CaRxr for long term). I have been pleased with Kalkwasser in past with my start-up tank. Might Kalkwasser be all I need long-term?
 
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Nice size tank. Unless you already have a Ca and Alk reactor i wouldn't consider buying them for a tank that gunna house mainly softies and a lps here or there.You should be just fine manually dosing or buying buying dosing pumps.

Leave the brace.
 
I have the oppotunity to build a fish room around the tank.

The tank is 24" front to back. How much of the tank should I have exposed. 12" or 18"? Or do you think its ugly to have tank protruding from the wall.
 
So do you mean it could be and in wall tank? If so i would have the front panel flush with the wall.
 
Hmmm imo i would do one or the other. Total in wall or have the entire tank outside and the equipment behind the wall.
My only reason is because ive never seen a tank setup half way in the wall.
 
Looking for inspiration/confidence........ I want to drill the glass myself.

I've watched the glass shop do it on my 29gallon sump. Basically, make a play-dough dam to contain blade/cut in pool of water. Light, constant pressure (Drill press?), let the bit do its job. No problem right? I've got some 1/4" glass to practice on first. Whacha think? Drill press overkill?
 
I have never drilled a tank but it shouldn't be difficult if you proceed like you plan to. I've never heard of anyone breaking a tank that wasn't tempered (I'm sure it's happened but just trying to give you some confidence :D)

I would highly recommend a Herbie style overflow or the "silent fail safe" style (which is a herbie and then some). They are so quite and you can run more flow through them vs. a typical Durso.

I agree w/ Bryan, either in wall or out of wall. What is the thickness of the wall anyway? Will it matter if you partially embed the tank?

Lastly, I wouldn't trust the anemones to stay out of the PH's. I had a huge RBTA in my last tank that never moved, sold it to Unarce (this was years ago) and I think the first night he had it it wandered into a PH and got toasted. Point being that they'll all of a sudden decide to move and of course it will be when you're not around or least expect it.

I remember back in the day when TP had that big anemone and clown tank.... it was pretty awesome. Definitely makes a neat display.
 
Good meeting you today! Thanks for letting me pick your brain a bit:)

I watched Elliot drill a tank for me, seemed pretty easy I think you can do it yourself no problem. I agree with Bryan on the inwall, either all in or all out. I have always loved the picture frame look so my vote goes for all the way in:)
 
Great weekend. Got a new 120g and stand sitting in the garage!!! Now to drilling holes in glass and making the overflow.
 
Update time....

Decided that tank will mostly be exposed with about 3-4 inches recessed into the wall seperating the two rooms.

I've built the internal weir. Used grey-light 14 glass which is nearly black but still kind of see through.

I've got 1 out of 5 (1.5") holes drilled. Not that bad but takes a while.

I've got the 3/8" glass for the external oveflow ordered.

I've bought a 55g for the sump ($30!) but I think that I should replace the inner silicone seals.

Have half of the plumbing.

Wife is starting to realize that my original estimate for the build is exceed my estimate of "around $100 bucks" :twitch:

Moving along but with a two year old son.....drilling glass during naps and after bedtime ain't happenning. I need a detached man-cave!!!
 
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Update and Question.....

Drilled the glass.....no sweat....pretty easy.

Still waiting on glass for external overflow.

Stuck at work today.....but was able to finish canopy while getting paid!!!!!

Question: Gonna paint inside of stand and canopy white to seal the plywood. Any suggestions about what paint to use.....Thinking BIN primer? Paint will get wet from moisture and salt creep.
 
I heard of people using Kilz (sp) for the inside. I've seen a stand with Marine grade paint that was awesome. It was white inside and water proof. Guess it's the stuff made for boats.

"I'm on a boat!"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This thread is worthless without pictures

This thread is worthless without pictures

Finished glasswork. Silicone a bit sloppy but you'll never see it. Time for plumbing!!

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Cool pic of my one of my favorite nooks in the 135g...soon to RIP

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