Anyone DIY phosphate reactor?

[homebrewdude]

I am looking to run carbon and phosban in my tank.
Any one DIY something that does this??

I would also like to run them all inline, so I can utilize only 1 pump.

 

[jdieck]

Re: Anyone DIY phosphate reactor?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8525077#post8525077 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by homebrewdude
I am looking to run carbon and phosban in my tank.
Any one DIY something that does this??

I would also like to run them all inline, so I can utilize only 1 pump.

Not only one pump but one reactor, it is OK to mix the carbon and the phosphate media in the same chamber.

 

[homebrewdude]

Is this chamber/reactor easy to make?

 

[jdieck]

I would think so, It is just a cYlinder you can feed trough the bottom and effluent trough the top with some bottom support for the media and some filter in the ouput to prevent fine material from leaving the chambe.

I do not have a design for a reactor itself (I converted a Kalk reactor) but this pics can give you some ideas.

Parts of a DIY Calcium Reactor second chamber which works with upflow like a chemical reactor, just need larger diameter connectors and a top filter (Foam and fiber will do)

Here is a pic of the Two little fishies reactor (I use it with Purigen)

and here is a pic of my converted Kalk reactor:

 

[homebrewdude]

Ok
That seems pretty easy.
So was my auto-waste container, that leaked so I threw it out $$

I might end up buying something.
Do you run UV also?

 

[jdieck]

Yes Ido, I run a 40 watt sterilizer 24/7

 

[homebrewdude]

Do you re-use the phosban? Purigen?
Or do you toss it out?

I was thinking of this also.
I could run carbon and phosban at the same time.
And it has a built in pump

Classic Canister

 

[DrBDC]

Do you have any problem keeping the uv flowing with it plumbed that way? It would seem pressure would be applied to the inlet and outlet. Or do you close the gate valve off that you have right above the inlet T.

 

[homebrewdude]

I am a bit limited on space.
I built a small box to hold my MH ballast and it can/will hold a small canister filter or a few of this reactors

 

[dippin61]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8525534#post8525534 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Yes Ido, I run a 40 watt sterilizer 24/7

hope those copper lines dont run to your tank

back on track.. so for the diy phosban reactor, what about the dispersion plate at the bottom? how would you make one of those?

 

[DrBDC]

I saw a diy thread where someone found an all-pvc shower head and mounted that in the bottom. I think they drilled out the holes slightly larger.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8525547#post8525547 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by homebrewdude
Do you re-use the phosban? Purigen?
Or do you toss it out?

I was thinking of this also.
I could run carbon and phosban at the same time.
And it has a built in pump

Classic Canister

A canister filter will work, you need to find one that is totally transparent, you need to see the media movement to be able to adjust the flow and perferably be up flow.
If you will buy something why not get the Kent or the Two little fishies? They are economical and will work with your 120. You can use one for the Phosban and one for the carbon.

 

[jdieck]

[iby dippin61 [/i]
hope those copper lines dont run to your tank

back on track.. so for the diy phosban reactor, what about the dispersion plate at the bottom? how would you make one of those?

No the copper lines are actually the hot and cold water for my wet bar which is right on the oposite side of the wall.

The dispersion plate is very easy. A PVC pipe of smaller diameter that the inside of the chamber perforated on the sides can provide support for a cut round of pre/perforated plate or eggcrate and finally a foam filter on top of the crate.

Hre is how the PVC support can be perforated, you can even cut it as leggs. Instead of the PVC + eggcrate you can use a PVC drain cover if you find the right size, it already has the holes just cut it as in teh drawing and picture to have legs.

A shower head has a lot of head loss and it will be more difficult to connect to the inlet.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8525556#post8525556 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DrBDC
Do you have any problem keeping the uv flowing with it plumbed that way? It would seem pressure would be applied to the inlet and outlet. Or do you close the gate valve off that you have right above the inlet T.

The return pump has a lot more flow than what the UV and the chiller will require so the pump discharge is split in three, on line goes to the UV, one goes to the chiller and the thirdone bypases both. By adjusting their inlet valves and the bypass gate valve I can control how much flow goes direct how much trough the chiller and how much trough the UV.

In addition if you obvserve carefully there are some (Gray) ball valves, by opening and closing the right ball valve I can change the arrengement completely and able to run the chiller and UV in series with no bypass rather than in parallel and with the bypass.

By closing the bottom ball valve, opening the gate valve and closing the ball valve on top of the gate valve all the flow will go to the chiller, from the chiller to the bottom of the sterilizer and from teh sterilizer up to the aquarium.

 

[homebrewdude]

I was also looking at this.
It is thin and tall and I can stick it behind my stand.

Lifegard Fluidized Bed Filters

They also have a UV in the same package size.
I can chain them together.

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8526246#post8526246 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by homebrewdude
I was also looking at this.
It is thin and tall and I can stick it behind my stand.

Lifegard Fluidized Bed Filters

They also have a UV in the same package size.
I can chain them together.

I have never seen one close but seems it will work.