Apex going haywire

[orcus]

You can make a "1 button blackout mode" Add this line to every outlet.

If FeedD 000 then OFF

this will allow you to turn off all outlets by simply starting the FeedD cycle. You can set it to run for whatever amount of time you need.

I agree that an Off by Default setup would be optimal.

Reeftronics allows you to display all your code easily. If you just copy/paste the output it generates into a text file would be fast and easy. No such thing as enough backups. You can even email yourself the file, that way you can work on it remotely.

Of course! I didn't think of this, but it's a great idea. Thanks!

I'll take a look at reeftronics. It sounds like a nice service.

 

[orcus]

From all this info im gathering about controllers i'm leaning more and more toward the GHL Profilux. Reliability is a lot more important than cost. I know not every controller goes wacko but a little more than I want.

I haven't used the GHL, so don't really have an opinion about it. The Apex does have some rough edges, but I'm still happy with it. One thing I did learn from this issue is to anticipate failures, and code to protect against them.

 

[orcus]

Just wanted to follow up on this issue. It turned out to be a problem with the controller, but Neptune was great about helping me diagnose the issue, and then completing a repair. They even gave me a small discount on a backup base unit I purchased for use while the other one was being repaired.

If you do encounter out of range readings on the pH or temp probes, my understanding is that it usually indicates an issue with the probes, but can also be the base unit, as it turned out to be with mine. Neptune support can provide a couple simple commands that can be issued through telnet to gather diagnostics to pinpoint the issue.

Thanks to Paul and the rest of the support team at Neptune.

 

[gman27455]

Orcus,
Thanks for the update. I just got my Apex a couple weeks ago and am learning the programming/configuration now. Reading thru this thread has educated me enough to prompt me to put the failsafe statements into each outlet that matters...pretty much all of them! I currently have an AC3 running my 100g reef, and it has been a very reliable workhorse for close to 8 years (I think), maybe more. It's never glitched or given me any trouble, (Knock on wood), and I hope the Apex proves out to be just as good.

 

[ENS]

Orcus - going back to your first post, same thing happened to me and my Apex last week while on vacation out of the country . Love my Apex, and I have found Neptune/Curt to have fantasic customer service and response support!! And we all have great never ending assistance here from Russ, Alan and Ken). But this issue and perpetual way-off reading for the ORP probe despite calibration is troublesome.

Temp was around 80.0, but was showing 19.6
pH is approx 8.2, but was showing 2.12
ORP should be around 390, but was showing > 900

Sending it in to Neptune for diagnostic and repair. Again, Curt and Paul are very responsive.

Smartly (by tank saving advice yrs ago from BigOldReef), I keep my heaters on two Aqualogics temp controllers, as they are bullit-proof and do one thing and do it well. Apex temp probes are used for easy monitoring, hood-fan control and ph adjustment, and will turn off lights if it gets too hot, but not actual tank temp control. Apex can fail, and main pump and temp will stay stable.

 

[timry2]

I have the same problem, Apex Status Nov 02 2012 08:47:52 Temp1 19.2, pH 2.35, ORP 921. I tried to reset the unit, unplugged all of the equipment and started from scratch. Still no resolve. Paul at Neptune tried to diagnose the unit through Telnet and advised me to send in the unit for repair. Ive had the Apex for three years with minimum problems, 1-10 volt dimming was DOA, but has been a great controller. but with a couple of thousand invested in my tank I would hate to loose it all on a 200 dollar part. Did you get yours fixed? and if so how much did it cost.
Thanks.

 

[orcus]

I did get mine fixed, but it was still under warranty, so there wasn't a charge. I also bought a backup unit, at a small discount, which they sent before I shipped mine in for repair. Haven't had any problems since the repair was completed.

One thing I would recommend is to change your program if needed for the low temp reading. Make sure the setting on the heaters themselves isn't too warm, so that the Apex doesn't keep them on too long. I had mine a bit too warm, and ended up adjusting them when the Apex started reporting an impossibly low temp.

 

[ENS]

timry2 - I also got mine fixed. Again, the guys at Neptune were very responsive and great to work with. Sent it in, and it was fixed and sent back within a day. Mine was not under warranty, so I was charged, but not much - very reasonable.

Like orcus, I also bought a backup unit at a small discount. I went in on it halves with a friend who also has an Apex, so it is a backup for both of us should either of us have a problem and need our main unit sent in for repair ... insurance worth the price -- can load either of our saved configs onto it and have our system back going same day.

Consider my suggestion from prior post - run your heaters/chiller on a aqua logic dual stage controller. All it does is temp, and are built proof. Eliminates any chance of a computer/probe having an incorrect reading and killing your system. Apex is a great product, and it is very useful, but, imo, too many blimps and bumps in its system to trust it to run heaters/chiller versus everything else.

 

[timry2]

Thanks Orcus, ENS, for the suggestion, I will be adding a low temp safety on the temp and a ph high and low safety. My sump is in my garage and I run two 500 watt heaters independently for the freezing winter. would you piggyback the two heaters and 1/3 chiller on the dual stage controller.

 

[ENS]

Its all about cost and what makes you comfortable. I chose to use two separate dual stage aqua logic controllers on separate gfi outlets, for redundancy in case a heater dies or such and trips the gfi -- which has happened. Still have another functioning heater. Also, I only use titanium heaters. Worth the small cost for second controller (in comparision to what I spend on the equipment and livestock) for piece of mind. On one, it has a fan for over the sump that goes on a degree below the other controller for a chiller. Most of the time that avoids a chiller ever being needed. Although now that I switched to LED about 14months ago from 3 400wt MH, don't need the chiller any more.