AquaMedic MH light repair?

versach000

New member
I have AquaMedic MH 150W + T5 (2X24W) combo.

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It can not tune on the MH probably ballast is dead.

How can i repair?

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I found this site..

http://www.ballastkit.com/metalhalideballastkit-p-24.html

http://www.1000bulbs.com/150-Watt-Metal-Halide-Ballast/2547/

http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=39

http://www.expresslightbulbs.com/ballasts-metal-halide-ballasts-c-10_115.html





I already test out the bulb and it¡¯s still working (100%)

I think ballasts have the problem¡¦
I tried to detach my MH, and it was divided into three parts: capacitor, ignitor, and coil
I think either capacitor or ignitor has problem

With MultiMeter test, socket part shown around 240V

I bought this from somebody and I have used for 1 year now..

And sometimes it showed the flickering problems as you said
Before it stopped working, when I turn on the light on my MH it had buzzing sounds too
But now it does not have any buzzing sound; just little heat from coil parts¡¦


Last question
For 150W MH, only M81 Ballast can be used?

The sites that I posted which parts do I have to buy and change it?

If I have to get an electronic ballasts, which one should I buy(use)?
Also if I have to get an electronic ballasts, do I have to use 250W?

If you have some other suggestions, please reply me back or pm me


Thank you again
 

125G Reefer

New member
You can take the numbers off the Starter (capacitor) and the Igniter, and cross reference them at a Graingers store or a Johnstones Supply, they will both have those items. Or a local store that deals with breakers and electronic supplies. You can use a 150w or 175w halide ballast, as long as you use the igniter with it, as the capacitor alone is not for DE HQI lamps. I would just buy the Capacitor and the Igniter, as this is probably your issue.
 

woz9683

Premium Member
You should go through www.aqua-medic.com. They'll be able to supply you with the identical replacement parts since they make the fixtures. I had a capacitor burn out in one of their ballasts (different model than yours) and they were very helpful in getting the replacement. Not too expensive and very quick. They might be able to help you troubleshoot too, so you can make sure what you need to order. In my case it was obvious as the end of the capacitor was fried.
 

woz9683

Premium Member
Also, a lot of these components are not too easy to find. I looked all over the place searching with the exact model and serial numbers off of my capacitor and did not find any perfect matches. I'd be very surprised if a place like grainger carried them.
 

scaryperson27

New member
I would do a Remote Electronic ballast. I just got an Icecap that puts off great light!!

It would save you heat, weight, and space in the fixture. Would also lengthen the life of the bulb.
 

125G Reefer

New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14811413#post14811413 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woz9683
Buy it from aqua medic. Like I said, grainger's not going to carry something like that.
???
 

PaulErik

Premium Member
That ballast is a HX-HPF (High Reactance) ballast. The ballast itself is working properly if the output voltage is between 235-265 Volts. You should only test the output voltage with the ignitor disconnected. The high starting voltage (up to 6000 Volts for an ANSI M81 ballast) from the ignitor will damage a multi meter. The capacitor in that ballast circuit only corrects the power factor and has nothing to do with lamp operation. If the buzzing sound has stopped it is the lamp ignitor that failed. The ignitor used is an impulse type and has to be properly matched because the ballast’s secondary coil is used as a step up transformer. It is recommended to match the model and brand because each ballast (brand and model) has a different tapping point (the windings differ). Your best bet to get correct replacement part is to contact AquaMedic.
 

versach000

New member
Aqua Medic Technical Support send me that today.
But look different.
It can use mine????????

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Mine is pulse ignitor connection diagram

Newone is superimposed ignitor connection diagram
 
Last edited:

PaulErik

Premium Member
The new ignitor (is a superimposed type) will work but you must connect it like on the ignitor’s wiring diagram. A superimposed ignitor is a standalone ignitor meaning it has a winding built in for stepping up the voltage and does not use the ballast tapping/winding.
 

PaulErik

Premium Member
The X3 (tapping point) wire on the ballast is unused for the new ignitor. The lamp wire from the ballast connects to the ignitor’s B terminal. The Lp terminal on the ignitor connects to the lamp socket. The N terminal on the ignitor connects to the COM (neutral/white).
 
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