Jacob D
New member
I don't consider myself an expert in the area of quarantine and treatment, however I think this bit of basic information may be helpful to those setting up and running a quarantine tank. The following should be interpreted as "in my opinion" rather than fact; if anyone feels there is misinformation here let's please discuss it.
<a name=1>Q: Should I quarantine all fish?</a>
A: Yes. A couple of weeks is a good window for observation of disease and parasites. Even newly acquired healthy fish can benefit from 2 weeks of time by themselves in the quarantine tank to recover from shipping/handling stress.
<a name=2>Q: What about corals, inverts, algae, and live rock?</a>
A: Set up a separate QT for them. It should never see copper or any medications that may be harmful to corals and inverts. It doesn't need to be large, doesn't necessarily need a skimmer, but will need adequate light and water movement. 2 weeks of observation should help spot any unwanted hitch hikers and pests.
<a name=3>Q. How big of a Quarantine Tank (QT) do I need?</a>
A. Ideally large enough to permanently meet the needs of your largest fish. Realistically, as close to that size as you have room for.
<a name=4>Q: What filtration do I need for my QT?</a>
A: The more the better. A skimmer is beneficial and in some cases can be run with medication in the water. A HOB filter adds more surface for bacteria to colonize as well as a place to run filter pads and carbon. A ball of chaetomorpha is a good idea provided there is light available. There's no substitute for live rock but keep in mind that copper as well as other medications will contaminate the rock permanently (never use it with inverts). Bottom line; use water changes to maintain water quality regardless of the filtration methods in place.
<a name=5>Q: How often should I change the water?</a>
A: As often as necessary to maintain excellent water quality. Spend $5 and get an ammonia alert indicator so you're not caught off guard by an ammonia spike.
<a name=6>Q: How many fish can I keep in my QT?</a>
A: There is no magic number. Do your homework to understand which fish are compatible with each other, make sure there are enough hiding spaces for all fish to shelter in, and don't overload your filtration.
<a name=7>Q: How long should the quarantine process last?</a>
A: A couple of weeks for observation is ample. If treatment beyond that is required it will depend on the treatment; usually 2-8 weeks. Technically speaking a QT would strictly be used for observation and rest period whereas a "Hospital Tank" would be used for treatment in which case the QT would more closely resemble an established tank, while the hospital tank would be very sterile.
<a name=8>Q: Should I proceed with any treatments even if I don't see signs of disease?</a>
A: Prophylactic treatment is a personal decision. (I usually treat with Praziquantel and Metronidazole regardless of whether or not I see signs of parasites)
<a name=9>Q: How soon should I begin treatment?</a>
A: Have the fish eating before starting treatment if possible. If the treatment is prophylactic give the fish a week or two to settle in and start eating regularly. If there are signs of disease or parasites you may need to start treatment right away.
<a name=10>Q: How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?</a>
A: The more established the QT the better. A squeaky clean QT is not necessarliy the best environment, even if cycled, even if jump started with water from the display tank. A slightly "dirty" QT is my preference. A little algae growth is a good indicator that the tank is "ready". If the QT has to be set up on short notice to treat a sick fish, use water from an established display tank.
<a name=11>Q: What equipment do I need to setup a QT?</a>
A:
<a name=12>Q: What are some medications I should have on hand?</a>
A:
- <a href="#1">Should I quarantine all fish?</a>
- <a href="#2">What about corals, inverts, algae, and live rock?</a>
- <a href="#3">How big of a Quarantine Tank (QT) do I need?</a>
- <a href="#4">What filtration do I need for my QT?</a>
- <a href="#5">How often should I change the water?</a>
- <a href="#6">How many fish can I keep in my QT?</a>
- <a href="#7">How long should the quarantine process last?</a>
- <a href="#8">How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?</a>
- <a href="#9">Should I proceed with any treatments even if I don't see signs of disease?</a>
- <a href="#10">How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?</a>
- <a href="#11">What equipment do I need to setup a QT?</a>
- <a href="#12">What are some medications I should have on hand?</a>
<a name=1>Q: Should I quarantine all fish?</a>
A: Yes. A couple of weeks is a good window for observation of disease and parasites. Even newly acquired healthy fish can benefit from 2 weeks of time by themselves in the quarantine tank to recover from shipping/handling stress.
<a name=2>Q: What about corals, inverts, algae, and live rock?</a>
A: Set up a separate QT for them. It should never see copper or any medications that may be harmful to corals and inverts. It doesn't need to be large, doesn't necessarily need a skimmer, but will need adequate light and water movement. 2 weeks of observation should help spot any unwanted hitch hikers and pests.
<a name=3>Q. How big of a Quarantine Tank (QT) do I need?</a>
A. Ideally large enough to permanently meet the needs of your largest fish. Realistically, as close to that size as you have room for.
<a name=4>Q: What filtration do I need for my QT?</a>
A: The more the better. A skimmer is beneficial and in some cases can be run with medication in the water. A HOB filter adds more surface for bacteria to colonize as well as a place to run filter pads and carbon. A ball of chaetomorpha is a good idea provided there is light available. There's no substitute for live rock but keep in mind that copper as well as other medications will contaminate the rock permanently (never use it with inverts). Bottom line; use water changes to maintain water quality regardless of the filtration methods in place.
<a name=5>Q: How often should I change the water?</a>
A: As often as necessary to maintain excellent water quality. Spend $5 and get an ammonia alert indicator so you're not caught off guard by an ammonia spike.
<a name=6>Q: How many fish can I keep in my QT?</a>
A: There is no magic number. Do your homework to understand which fish are compatible with each other, make sure there are enough hiding spaces for all fish to shelter in, and don't overload your filtration.
<a name=7>Q: How long should the quarantine process last?</a>
A: A couple of weeks for observation is ample. If treatment beyond that is required it will depend on the treatment; usually 2-8 weeks. Technically speaking a QT would strictly be used for observation and rest period whereas a "Hospital Tank" would be used for treatment in which case the QT would more closely resemble an established tank, while the hospital tank would be very sterile.
<a name=8>Q: Should I proceed with any treatments even if I don't see signs of disease?</a>
A: Prophylactic treatment is a personal decision. (I usually treat with Praziquantel and Metronidazole regardless of whether or not I see signs of parasites)
<a name=9>Q: How soon should I begin treatment?</a>
A: Have the fish eating before starting treatment if possible. If the treatment is prophylactic give the fish a week or two to settle in and start eating regularly. If there are signs of disease or parasites you may need to start treatment right away.
<a name=10>Q: How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?</a>
A: The more established the QT the better. A squeaky clean QT is not necessarliy the best environment, even if cycled, even if jump started with water from the display tank. A slightly "dirty" QT is my preference. A little algae growth is a good indicator that the tank is "ready". If the QT has to be set up on short notice to treat a sick fish, use water from an established display tank.
<a name=11>Q: What equipment do I need to setup a QT?</a>
A:
- Tank
- Heater
- Powerhead(s)
- Thermometer
- Ammonia Alert Indicator and/or Nitrate & Nitrite test kits
- PVC pipe segments or other hiding places for fish
- Live Rock (optional)
- Light (optional for fish-only)
- Skimmer (optional)
- HOB Filter (optional)
<a name=12>Q: What are some medications I should have on hand?</a>
A:
- Copper or Chloroquine - for ich and other external parasites
- Praziquantel - for flukes and worms
- Metronidazole - for intestinal and other protozoa
- Formalin - for brook and other external parasites
- Erythromycin and Minocycline - for bacterial prevention/treatment
- Food enhancers such as Selcon, Zoe, and Eco Garlic