Battery Backup UPS Uninterupted Power Source

pitmindi

New member
Hello. I hope some of you informed people can help me. I want to buy an automatic battery backup UPS for my reef tank so if I lose electricity it can power a small pump and the heater. I live in the northeast and this week my electricity went out for 4 hours. It was 35 outside and my furnace does not operate when the electricity goes out so by the time the electricity returned my tank temp had dropped from 78 to 74 and my house temp dropped from 70 to 66. Since 35 is not nearly as cold as it can get in the winter, I need a backup that would run my heater as long as possible. My tank is about 100 gallons. My heater is 500 watt and it goes on intermittently to keep a steady temp. I don't want to spend more than $500 and would prefer $300. Any suggestions?? What do other northerners use to protect their reef tank? Other than crossing your fingers that it will never happen.......

Also what does VA mean as in 1000VA / 600W? I know W is watt. What does "PFC power supplies" mean? What should I look for ??? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
While not really answering your question BRS did a video on battery back ups.
Give it a watch it will help you out.

100% this.

Also after realizing a straight connection from a DC battery (like the over priced vortech) lasts CRAZY longer... i youtubed how to build a battery backup twice the size for about 65% off.

i have two PC battery backups hooked up which lasts 2 hours for a powerhead. A 40$ battery from amazon lasts about 2 days.
 
W= watt, V= voltage, A= amps.

All related by the equation W=VA. So if you can't find the wattage on something but have the amps, just multiply by 120 to get watts (assuming it is not a 240 v item). If you need amps just divide the watts by 120 (same assumption).

In this situation VA is an estimation of the maximum amps that could be pulled (1000 VA=8.3 amps for a 120V device) W is the peak wattage that can be produced (600W). Since it is rated for 600W you are really limited to just 5 amps on a 120V device/outlet (600/120=5).

The reason they are different is because no energy transfer is 100%. Power is lost through resistance, DC to AC conversions and such so sticking to the max watts is what you need to focus on.

That said, for DC pumps there really is no need for a UPC. Only thing I use the UPC for is to keep my Apex online when the power goes out. Have an old Neptune WAV kit plugged into it but no WAV pumps in my system anymore. This keeps power to the control unit even though the EB8s lose all power, avoiding any IP address change issues upon reboot.
 
100% this.



Also after realizing a straight connection from a DC battery (like the over priced vortech) lasts CRAZY longer... i youtubed how to build a battery backup twice the size for about 65% off.



i have two PC battery backups hooked up which lasts 2 hours for a powerhead. A 40$ battery from amazon lasts about 2 days.
Do you have the link to videos you watched

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
To power your 500 watt heater you will need a 42 amp battery for one hour of use. Since it is a heating load you really need to multiply x 25% which takes you to 52 amps per hour. So invest in a 12 volt 800 amp deep cycle battery and tie into a 1500 kva ups and you are good.
 
Get a generator/ATS if you want to keep things like heaters going and want to do so for more than a few hours..

A UPS is really not intended for "long" term backup (long being more than a few hours)..
Even the extended range UPS units are for like 7 hours or so max..
They allow graceful shutdown and surge/brownout protection,etc... Not keep stuff running for days..
 
Sort of on topic: Get a bait bubbler. These take common batteries and run for hours. Find them at bait/fishing stores.
 
We often had a lot of power outages where I lived last so a generator was needed if the power went off... Thankfully for just a tank you don't need one that is all that big.
 
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