Best way to make sump baffles the strongest

[Aquaman101]

I've got a fellow reefer who built his own sump using acrylic baffles.

He superglued them into place, then put a bead of silicone along both vertical sides of the baffles.

He has since had two of the baffles collapse from water pressure.

Is that the optimal way to attached the baffles?

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I would say no, based on his results.

For strongest results, IMHO, use like materials - put glass baffles in glass sumps and acrylic baffles in acrylic sumps. Fix them in place using methods you'd use during "new tank construction" for that material - high strength silicone (i.e. RTV100 series) for glass, and solvent welding for acrylic.

That said, that's not always the most practical or desirable approach, depending on your resources and your criteria. It is possible to fix acrylic baffles in a glass sump strongly enough that they won't collapse under normal operation. Silicone doesn't bond well with acrylic but a thick bead of high strength silicone will be more than enough to hold an acrylic baffle in place and keep it sealed in a glass sump.

 

[reelfishy]

What type of silicone will be sufficient for this? I'm making a (glass) sump and I'm using acrylic baffles.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

If you're looking for a strong silicone that's more or less easy to get, RTV100 series (103 or 108, depending on if you want black or clear) is probably the best. It's about $10 a tube at grainger, and there's a grainger in almost every city - or you can mailorder from their website.

 

[btkrausen]

I'm using acrylic baffles in a ASA 40 Breeder for a sump and it works perfectly, including a bubble trap. The acrylic is the thickest that Lowe's sells (1/2 or 3/8 maybe?), and they will even cut it for you at no charge, or you can by the knife and do it yourself.

I used the "aqaurium" silicone that you can buy at Lowes as well, which is 100% silicone.

I put a bead across the bottom the acrylic, pushed it in, and then put a nice thick bead along both sides. Ran a fan over top to help dry for probably 12 hours at least. They are very strong.

 

[WSI2406]

I just made my sump last week. I used 6 mm glass for a local glass store. I used GE I, clear in my 20 Gal high glass tank. I let it cure for a few days and water tested it, very strong. I agree with using glass for a glass tank and acrylic for an acrylic tank. 3/8" is nice and thick, but I have heard a lot ofreefers with the baffles bowing.

My 2 cents

 

[jeff@zina.com]

Silicone doesn't bond to acrylic, but it can seal it. The problem with most acrylic baffles is bowing, which comes from using thinner acrylic. Thin does you in, glass or plastic, so go thick. 1/4" in either would be best.

Personally, if the sump isn't acrylic, I'll use glass. Usually 1/4" plate, polished edges. Doing it right and doing it once is worth the slight increase in cost.

Jeff

 

[merkurmaniac]

For my sump (acrylic) I used acrylic baffles. I solvent welded it in place, but then reinforced it in two ways. I took acrylic strips that I had that matched the height of the sump and put one on each face of the baffle in a vertical orientation. Since they sat flat against the sump wall, I could get a good bond. Imagine making a slotted baffle support where the baffle itself could be slid down into place.

For this baffle to fail, it would need to shear loose the bonded acrylic pieces, or bow so much that it would pop out of the "slot". I reinforced the centre of the baffle to diminish this failure mode too.


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[bmkj02]

It will work for a short time. Maybe a yr or less but you will be back to the drawing board. Go to a local glass glazier and have some 1/4" glass cut to size and make sure the edges are smooth out too. Then silicone it and it will last you for a long long time. I did it your method twice and both times it last less than a yr till I finally used glass. Glass baffles for glass tanks and acrylic baffles for acrylic tanks. Silicone for glass and Weld-On for acrylic. Save yourself the headache and do it right the first time

 

[psteeleb]

I always used like materail (glass to glass or acrylic to acrylic), that said there was an article I read about a year ago where someone used common EDPM foam rubber insulation strips with the self adheasive on one side. The process looked great as you installed the foam seal on the outside edge of your glass or acrylic baffle and then compressed the foam between the sump walls. The compressed foam held the baffle in place, and if you wanted to move the baffle you could without having to cut out the old seals.

link
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/bafflesart.htm

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I always used like materail (glass to glass or acrylic to acrylic), that said there was an article I read about a year ago where someone used common EDPM foam rubber insulation strips with the self adheasive on one side. The process looked great as you installed the foam seal on the outside edge of your glass or acrylic baffle and then compressed the foam between the sump walls. The compressed foam held the baffle in place, and if you wanted to move the baffle you could without having to cut out the old seals.

link
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/bafflesart.htm

I really don't like the idea of force-fit baffles in a sump. It's just begging for something to break IMHO.

 

[MSU Fan]

I always used like materail (glass to glass or acrylic to acrylic), that said there was an article I read about a year ago where someone used common EDPM foam rubber insulation strips with the self adheasive on one side. The process looked great as you installed the foam seal on the outside edge of your glass or acrylic baffle and then compressed the foam between the sump walls. The compressed foam held the baffle in place, and if you wanted to move the baffle you could without having to cut out the old seals.

link
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/bafflesart.htm

I actually tried this at one point. There is an extremely low tolerance for the pressure fit to work. Plus like DWZM said, it's not a very dependable seal. Maybe if the water levels are very low, but at high levels, 10"+, the baffle would be pushed over. Not worth it.

 

[Pen3]

i use acrylic baffles in a glass sump and i bought small 1x3 strips of glass i found that were about 5mm thick and silicone them in front and behind the baffles. I think those 30 strips cost me only $6.

 

[williams.luca]

glass on glass is the best by far.....you can get it cut cheap and holds strong with silicone...I have made a few andd this is by far the best way!

 

[Rancherlee]

I haven't had any issues with Acrylic in Glass. I usually cut the acrylic about 1/16" too wide and sand it down until it will fit in the tank with just enough pressure to hold the pane off the bottom. I also sand about 1/2" in on each surface that will get silicone to help it hold onto the acrylic. Then Just put a nice fat bead on it. I also use a 29G and a 55G for sumps so the 12-13" width doesn't allow much bowing, which could be why I don't have any issues. I just picked up a 40B at petco to build a sump out of so I'll see how my method works on a 18" wide tank.