building a rimless tank

Ron Reefman

Active member
What is the biggest rimless tank anybody on here has made for themself? I made a 22g rimless frag tank (24" x 18" x 10") and it was easy. So I'd like to go bigger. I have a 55g tank I'd like to replace with a 68g rimless (48" x 18" x 18") and if that works, how about a 180g? I know that's really pushing the evelope, and doing research on google hasn't helped much. So I wonder if anybody on here has even tried anything that size (rimless with NO bracing)? :eek2:
 
i know a guy with a rimless 500 gallon. 1.5" glass. tank weighs 1200lbs empty.

CRJ, thanks for a great start. Now I know big tanks can be made rimless. Of course I don't want a 1200lb tank, but a 70g or 180g will be smaller and use less than 1.5" glass. Anybody with experience at these sizes?
 
Being the eternal optimist I am, 325 gallon, rimless, (72 x 36 x 29) 25mm sides, 30mm bottom, weighing in at 832.5 lbs, the bottom panel alone weighing 264 lbs. Not something I would recommend for a home builder.

The secret to rimless tanks, is in the dimensions. Relatively short (under 6',) wide, and shallow--relatively speaking. A good 180 would come in around 60 x 32 x 22 with 15mm glass, 19mm bottom, weighing around 351.6lbs. Going to 60 x 30 x 24 would need 19mm, and 25mm bottom---considerably more expensive and a bit heavier (~452lbs.)
 
If the reason for the bottom being thicker just in case it needs to be moved? It seems almost backwards to me to have a bottom be thick when the walls are the ones under load. Or is this just a glass rimless deal that doesn't apply to acrylic tanks?
 
If the reason for the bottom being thicker just in case it needs to be moved? It seems almost backwards to me to have a bottom be thick when the walls are the ones under load. Or is this just a glass rimless deal that doesn't apply to acrylic tanks?

Well it does not apply to acrylic tanks anyway. There are a couple reasons for the thicker bottom panel, though the major one in most cases is, since pressure is greatest at the bottom of the tank, the seam needs to be wider to carry the load--silicone is the only thing holding the tank together, using silicone's weakest property: adhesion. (Built sides around bottom)

Most rimmed tanks have a thicker bottom panel as well, (or tempered bottom panel) though for a somewhat different reason. The bottom is raised, and not in contact with the stand top. The bottom needs to be thicker (more rigid) to minimize deflection. A rimless can be built similar as well, with the bottom raised inside the sides, supported on a stand as a rimmed tank (no full stand top needed,) provided it has the thicker bottom. One way around this (for a raised bottom) is to use tempered glass.....but no one is going to use tempered glass on a custom tank......

The thicker bottom for seam width, can be "side stepped," but requires the installation of an internal bottom "euro" brace, as would a tank built with the sides on top of the bottom.
 
EDIT: Oops just realized this thread was in the DIY forum. . . . my bad . . . I did NOT make this myself although I did add bracing on the seams because of concerns about the glue.

Sorry 'bout that.

Still . . .



My tank is 48 x 48 x 24 inches: 240 gallon rimless





Ron,

I just ran across another post of yours and noticed your comments regarding Evergrow LEDs. I am genuinely intrigued by the design as I think it solves many of the drawbacks on most fixtures out there and would be interested in trying one, but before I spend another $500 on LED testing I was wondering if you could post some photos of your setup and corals, and tell me a little more about your experiences so far with the Evergrow LEDs.

I know this thread is old and not the best for this question so I'll keep searching your posts to see if I can find a more relevant discussion.


Thanks either way,


Joe



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