hey, does anyone in this thread happen to have the manual for the Artisan II 50G with the stand? Newbie to reefs, got my setup today but no instructions for setting up the stand. If so, please email me at bob@chapelpc.com. Thanks in advance!
Cadlights 50G Artisan Cube Tank Build Thread
- Thread starter cocoaandme
- Start date
septicdeath
New member
You could call Cadlights, I never got any documentation, but if you search here and nano tank you might find a post or two with people mentioning it, but if you look at the other tank pictures an online website pictures, you'll see a defining rear piece, then the sides fall into place, the top has the access holes, and it should make sense too you....
Their support is pretty useless
Their support is pretty useless
Thanks for the recommendation. They have no manual, i figured it out after a couple of hours of trial and error, and a call to a friend who used to own a LFS. They forgot the drain plumbing, so I am going to have to build something there....
Their support is pretty useless
Thanks for the recommendation. They have no manual, i figured it out after a couple of hours of trial and error, and a call to a friend who used to own a LFS. They forgot the drain plumbing, so I am going to have to build something there....
septicdeath
New member
That's too bad to hear about forgotten parts, I would have figured they had their act together (FINALLY), there are quite a few "they forgot this", mine was shipped without te skimmer, but that was years ago... Luckily, their products look really nice, and function just as well once set up,their skimmers and reactors out perform anything even in the ball park, but again, "they forgot the drain plumbing" <- makes me shake my head.... 
BTW, hard plumb the feed down to the sump, two45's with a union in between the two 45's and your set, it's much more quiet anyways, I tossed my flexible tank to sump anyways, so maybe they are forcing you to do it better....
BTW, hard plumb the feed down to the sump, two45's with a union in between the two 45's and your set, it's much more quiet anyways, I tossed my flexible tank to sump anyways, so maybe they are forcing you to do it better....
Last edited:
cocoaandme
New member
From what I've seen of the plumbing that cadlights supplies it's pretty low quality. I agree with septicdeath that it's a blessing in disguise that they forgot to send it.
cocoaandme
New member
Haha I was just over doing it.
dwolson2
New member
Do you think I would be ok with a 120? I am going to have a mostly LPS tank and I don't want to overskim the nutrients out of the tank.
Many people look at getting out as much junk as possible, but I still need to keep something in the tank for them to eat. I have also heard that if you get too large of a skimmer it can't keep its foam head as well.
That said, should I get the 120 or 160(price isn't the issue FWIW)
Many people look at getting out as much junk as possible, but I still need to keep something in the tank for them to eat. I have also heard that if you get too large of a skimmer it can't keep its foam head as well.
That said, should I get the 120 or 160(price isn't the issue FWIW)
cocoaandme
New member
I think the 120 would be perfect. I found the 160 to be too large for my tank. Now it is better because of the extra refugium but before I had issues with it.
d0ughb0y
Active member
sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just recently bought a used tank like this and have a question regarding plumbing.
Did you replace the bulk heads at the bottom of the tank?
The tank I got came with uPVC schedule 40 unions, and they are not compatible with schedule 40 PVC unions I got from home depot.
I want to use a DC return pump in place of the stock atman return pump. I can add fittings to the DC pump and hook it up to the original return plumbing, but it has like 3 elbows that I think can be reduced to two 45 degree elbows, but I will need to replace everything from the bulk head.
Also, the return line inside the overflow use regular 1/2" pvc and Tees at the top. The way it is installed is like is was forced jammed to fit into the bulkhead since it is not really aligned and I'm concerned with the unnecessary stress it makes. I may change the return plumbing to use flexible hose like yours, or just offset the pipe with 2 45 degree elbows so the pipe fits into the bulkhead without any misalignment.
I see most do not use the shelf that comes with the stand. I currently have an swc 160 and I know it won't fit if the shelf is installed so I was thinking of getting a smaller skimmer, since I want to keep the shelf so I can place my controller there and isolate it from water splash.
I also plan to replace all hinges, which are severely rusted. Any ideas on what I can do to prevent or prolong the hinges from getting rusted?
how did you remove the divider between the drain and skimmer section?
I too think that reduces the water contact time with the skimmer, and I think that divider was meant to hold bio balls and such. I will be using a 4" filter sock so I really do not need the divider.
On the baffles, did you just extend the existing baffle or did you completely replace it to make it higher?
Also, the space between the outer overflow box and the inner is filled with crud. any tips on how I can clean it?
thanks.
Did you replace the bulk heads at the bottom of the tank?
The tank I got came with uPVC schedule 40 unions, and they are not compatible with schedule 40 PVC unions I got from home depot.
I want to use a DC return pump in place of the stock atman return pump. I can add fittings to the DC pump and hook it up to the original return plumbing, but it has like 3 elbows that I think can be reduced to two 45 degree elbows, but I will need to replace everything from the bulk head.
Also, the return line inside the overflow use regular 1/2" pvc and Tees at the top. The way it is installed is like is was forced jammed to fit into the bulkhead since it is not really aligned and I'm concerned with the unnecessary stress it makes. I may change the return plumbing to use flexible hose like yours, or just offset the pipe with 2 45 degree elbows so the pipe fits into the bulkhead without any misalignment.
I see most do not use the shelf that comes with the stand. I currently have an swc 160 and I know it won't fit if the shelf is installed so I was thinking of getting a smaller skimmer, since I want to keep the shelf so I can place my controller there and isolate it from water splash.
I also plan to replace all hinges, which are severely rusted. Any ideas on what I can do to prevent or prolong the hinges from getting rusted?
how did you remove the divider between the drain and skimmer section?
I too think that reduces the water contact time with the skimmer, and I think that divider was meant to hold bio balls and such. I will be using a 4" filter sock so I really do not need the divider.
On the baffles, did you just extend the existing baffle or did you completely replace it to make it higher?
Also, the space between the outer overflow box and the inner is filled with crud. any tips on how I can clean it?
thanks.
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