Cinder Block Stand for a 125 Gallon

Chago09

New member
Ok I have found a thread by RocketEngineer, for his design of a 2x4 stand. It looks like it can hold a truck although I am still paranoid. Am I really over exagerating???

Since my tank is going to be in wall, I was thinking that I could literally buy 16 conder blocks. There each 8 x 8 x 16. So I could stack 4 per corner and lay pieces of 2x6 across the boards. Would this not be plaenty of support and not have to worry about collapse??? this would leave lots of room underneath for sump and equipment
 

tbar

New member
I think it would be alright. I had a 75 on a cinder block stand My 125 stand like most I think only supports the tank on the outer bottom edges.
 

billet22

New member
I would think this would work. However, my only concern would be the distance between the cinder blocks (length wise). If this tank is 72" long, that would leave almost 4 feet between the cinder blocks unsupported, even with the 2x6 acting as a top that the tank would sit on. In my oppinion that is to much distance.
 

Whacked

New member
use the cinderblocks.
Then some 2x6 as a frame for the tank to sit on.
you'll have about 4.6' for stuff under the tank.
you will have a sag of about 0.0092" using Pine and guessimate about 150lb/ft uniform load.

A 2x4 may work too and you'll have about a 0.0414" sag. thats about 1/25" of a inch (I know, a odd dimension)

The only real problem is the CMU blocks are 16" while the standard 125g is 18". altho you could center the tank frame over the CMU, they will overhang the blocks 1" front and back. You could then compensate by using 'legs' in the back corners to compensate and bring the loading forces to the ground.
 

therealfatman

In Memoriam
Six inch by Six six column blocks work nicely. No boards would be fine , but for that extra factor of safety beyiond the tank mafactured rating of over 4.0 with just corner supports an upright two inch by four inch frame on top of the corner blocks would work just fine. I don't think your from an earth quake prone area.
 

ctaylor76

In Memoriam
I'm union carpenter, blocks will be fine. I see them used all the time with I-beams made into the block wall sitting on a small steel plate. U will need something inside the block to keep them from rolling or sliding off from each other. Not that this would happen, but shifting will accure. I would use 3/4 inch plywood for a base with 2 x 4 block on top of the plywood base, the 2 x 4's do not need togo all the way across the length of the tank. Just have them sit on top of the blocks. I would also use a water level if you do not have a laser level like me. Water levels are the most accurate leveling device known to man if u can do it right, and it's very easy to set on up with clear 1/2 inch tube. This way you can use 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 inch plywood on top of each block collum support you are making for your tank to sit on. Useing different size plywood pieces will ensure you get it level on each block collum support. Remember your support only needs togo where your tank is actually touching the mini block collums your useing to raise your tank up for support. The rest of the wood that is not touching wont support much weight. Send me a PM if you have any questions at all, I have been doing this type of work for over 15 yrs. and can help you with this if needing more directions.

Jake
 

Chago09

New member
oh ok I think some of you are confusing me LOL

My original idea was to take the 16" length and send it down the length of the tank, this way I could have two piles on each end of the tank, basically under all four corners. So all for corner are directly on top of the blocks. Then 16" in on both ends for the length of the tank will be on top of the blocks.

Then I was going to take 3 2 x 6 and lay them flat on the blocks. 6"x3 = 18" perfect width. Some of you suggested making a frame??? I'm confused do you mean make like a 2x6 frame thats upright?? if its upright would 2x4 be enough?? or would my way work just as good?
 

scrombussquared

New member
Is it a glass or acrylic tank? I, too, am a carpenter and agree with most of what ctaylor says. If your tank is glass with a plastic frame, you only need to support the 4 corners. An acrylic tank needs solid support under the entire tank, which 2x6's on the flat will provide. Top the 2x6's with a piece of styrofoam sheet. ( styrofoam is a trademark of the Dow corp. for their polystyrene insulation sheathing. It is light blue in color and costs around 12 bucks for a 4x8 sheet. A lot of folks use expanded polystyrene sheeting for this purpose also.

I would recommend using some type of adhesive between the concrete blocks (CMU). Liquid nails is good, but there's a type used for landscape blocks that would perform better.

If you're going to make a frame to sit on top of the blocks, 2x4's on edge will be just fine.
 

Chago09

New member
yes the tank is glass with plastic frame.

So then my idea of having the cinder block piles in the corners and planks laying flat will work!! great. Now need to think how I can squeeze a sump and what size
 

scrombussquared

New member
Yeh, the concrete blocks will support a lead block the same size as your tank, but there's not a lot of room left under the stand...you may want to rethink building one from wood.
 
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