Cured Mold Resistant Silicon

zenzence

Premium Member
Sure this has been asked but cant get search engine work even after I logged in. I made a rookie mistake and used mold resistant silicon to attach my overflow box to my tank. I waited 48 hours to cure. I see lot post how bad this is...My fish are fine my corals are doing okay. Long term affects??? I don't see that it is harming my livestock. Overflow has been installed for more than 3 weeks.

Just wondering if I should redo my overflow.

thanks
 
Probably just fine.. No one could really find what makes the "mold resistant" any different from the regular.. Its not in the SDS sheets or anything..

FYI.. depending on bead thickness 48 hours might not be sufficient cure time.. Could be longer..

Since no one really knows what the difference is..no one can really state long term effects.. Could be fine.. Could be an issue.. No one really knows for sure..
 
Probably just fine.. No one could really find what makes the "mold resistant" any different from the regular.. Its not in the SDS sheets or anything..

FYI.. depending on bead thickness 48 hours might not be sufficient cure time.. Could be longer..

Since no one really knows what the difference is..no one can really state long term effects.. Could be fine.. Could be an issue.. No one really knows for sure..

Isn't it specifically these kinds of compounds? They leach into the water (slower is better) but should not be considered 'cured' in any safe way in any reasonable amount of time.

Fungicides used in sealing compounds are comprised of diverse chemical compound classifications. Examples are:
1.) N-(fluordichloridemethylthio)phthalimide (trade names: Fluor-Folper, Preventol A3).
2.) Methyl-benzimideazol-2-ylcarbamate (trade names: Carbendazim, Preventol BCM)
3.) 10,10′-oxy-bisphenoxarsine (trade name: Vinyzene, OBPA)
4.) Zinc-bis(2-pyridylthio-1-oxide) (zinc pyrithion)
5.) 2-(4-thiazolyl)-benzimidazol
6.) N-phenyl-iodpropargylcarbamate
7.) N-octyl-4-isothiazolin-3-on
8.) 4,5-dichloride-2-n-octyl-4-isothiazolin-3-on
9.) N-butyl-1,2-benzisothiazolin-3-on
10.) Triazolyl-compounds, such as tebuconazol in combination with zeolithes containing silver (EP 931 811 and EP 640 661)

If I add the publication link I think my post will get moderated so I'll add it later if people are interested.
 
Well....nothing has died and its been 3 weeks clowns and corals doing fine...I may just replace it not a lot of work really ..drain tank below overflow ...razor blade off silicon with out getting it into water.. then put new overflow on..
 
Isn't it specifically these kinds of compounds? They leach into the water (slower is better) but should not be considered 'cured' in any safe way in any reasonable amount of time.



If I add the publication link I think my post will get moderated so I'll add it later if people are interested.

It "could" be.. I thought someone checked the SDS sheets and nothing of the sort was added or different between (GE type 1 and Ge type 2).. Now I do know they get to keep "trade secrets" out of the SDS sheets for certain things but usually note that also..
 
I wouldn't trust it. IMHO I would just go with a silicon that I know is safe and that has had a lot of feedback from people. We spend a lot on our tanks to just throw it away because of one error
 
Well....nothing has died and its been 3 weeks clowns and corals doing fine...I may just replace it not a lot of work really ..drain tank below overflow ...razor blade off silicon with out getting it into water.. then put new overflow on..

The issue for me at least, would be 6 months from now if a fish or coral dies suddenly and you're not sure why, will you wonder about the silicone?
 
It took me 20 min replaced silicon .... not big deal just curious everyone saying NO mold resistant silicon but I had no ill effects. Better safe than sorry...

Thanks for everyone
 
Back
Top