custom hot water heater for large systems?

You are understanding me correctly about the coil from the bathroom. But why do you need to put in on the bottom spigot(on the water heater)? Why not just return it to the inlet side of the water heater? Wouldn't that be easier on the pump too(since its not fighting the water heater pressure)
 
dwolson - I believe it has to do with efficiencies and the water already being warmer than the incoming cold water supply. If you search for designs it shows it done this way and so that is how I did it. If you do put it on the input side definitely be sure to use a flow check above the coil return. you don't want to start heating your cold water.

---ahh there is the answer -- as I typed it out it makes sense. If you return the warmer water and mix it with the cold water you will actually lower the return water temp even further (as you will also pull in cold water) and thus use more fuel to return it to proper temp. If you return it to the side or bottom then it mixes directly with hot water and the temp will fluctuate less and therefore be more efficient.
 
The system has been working flawlessly in a basement in he northeast during this years unusually cold winter. The controller is set to 75f/25c and allow .5 drop before turning on pump. The pump will kick in about once an hour for about 5-10min. The temp has kept within 1 degree flawlessly. I have not noticed any increase in fuel consumption or how often the HW burner kicks on.

During large water changes (100g+) I do notice that the HW heater will kick on as the new water is basement room temp at 60ish f. I expected this.
 
Others have used Pex with success. I would run a 25' coil of it.

I am thinking about using a pex coil to heat an RO/DI outside water storage tank, just to keep it slightly above freezing.
 
After one of our coldest winters in the Northeast I could not be happier with the end result. I noticed no difference with oil consumption and at only 33w it saved a bunch on my electricity. It also had the added benefit of instant hot water from every faucet in the house. The temp controller is great as well I was able to adjust it as much as I desired. In the end I opted for allowing no more than 1 degree temp swing.

I am now planning on doing something similar for a 250g outside RO water storage. I am using an IBC and will plumb it to a 100' coil of PEX inside the basement near the furnace along with a 12v circulating pump. The idea is that the the water in the 100' will warm enough to keep the water in the IBC outside from freezing. The IBC also has a built in electric heater but I am weary of using that for extended periods.
 
Shouldn't have a ball valve on the hot side of you he tank, on the supply to your in sump heater yes.
 
INTYME - not sure what you are saying. If you could clarify, it would help. I think you we're saying that there should be a ball valve on the supply line to the sump heater?

I do have, as the illustration shows a ball valve on each side of the sump heater, via the manifold. The manifold allows bypassing the sump heater all together or shut off each side if needed for service.
 
I also have a coil heating system as a backup in case the power goes out for long periods. I found that if I let just a bit of water through it keeps the tank at 78deg (90g tank).


I connect rodi line to the metal coil but it's a manual process now. Is there some robust solenoid that will connect to rodi line and my reefkeeper to control the temps/flow? (Not flow rate, just on/off).
 
Subw00er said:
I also have a coil heating system as a backup in case the power goes out for long periods. I found that if I let just a bit of water through it keeps the tank at 78deg (90g tank).


I connect rodi line to the metal coil but it's a manual process now. Is there some robust solenoid that will connect to rodi line and my reefkeeper to control the temps/flow? (Not flow rate, just on/off).
Click to expand...




look at http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/PLUMBING/Solenoid-Valve for a solenoid valve. There are others though.
 
Hey thats perfect! I could do a low temp alert and turn on a port on the RK and then just hook up a 24v power adapter. (Just noticed that its 24v AC, kind of weird!)

Do you think it would be able to hold back 80-90psi for long periods of time? I have high home water pressure.
 
Subw00er said:
Hey thats perfect! I could do a low temp alert and turn on a port on the RK and then just hook up a 24v power adapter. (Just noticed that its 24v AC, kind of weird!)

Do you think it would be able to hold back 80-90psi for long periods of time? I have high home water pressure.
Click to expand...


Probably, even if it did ro/di specs normally call for lower psi inputs. It would prob work for awhile but I wouldn't trust it long term. You need a pressure regulator, might want to consider for whole house as many faucets, toilets, aren't designed for psi over 60.... Yes they have a safety margin... But again I wouldn't feel comfortable
 
Actually I do use a regulator of sorts (mostly closed garden hose faucet), so I guess I could just put that before the solenoid.

This isnt going into my rodi line, it comes from my hot water line directly then through the coil.
 
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