Cutting Acrylic

[Reefmedic79]

I've got some 1/4in. acrylic I would like to cut up for some small DIY projects.

All I have is a circular saw, a jig saw and a small finishing router and guides to ensure straight cuts.

What type of saw blades or router bits would you suggest I purchase?

The work doesn't have to be pretty, only functional.

 

[Eud]

I had good success with my circular saw and a brand new 7-1/4 inch carbide tipped 40 tooth blade. It goes through like butter. Chips a tiny bit along the edges, but at least it doesnt melt it and make a mess. New one is the key. Dull blade will melt the sheet and make a mess.

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

if you run the blade backwards it will cut much nicer...then finish up with a router, your best friend will be a router table, but barring one of those, some clamps and good jigs will go a long way...

 

[Mathew26]

You want a blade with a lot of teeth and run it backwards. You will be Amazed.

 

[Eud]

How the heck does running it backwards work to cut the stuff? First time I have ever heard that.

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

it works...you are cutting plastic, not ironwood....running it backward means the plastic doesnt get sucked into and caught in the depth of the teeth in the blade...it is simply cut by the backside of the carbide tip, which is more then sharp enough to cut plastic...another option is to just by a plastic cutting blade...i bought one last week cost me ($14.00) to cut a sheer decent water fall for a customer, the finish after the cut was beautiful...i am pretty sure it has 140 teeth.

 

[BIGD0G]

Use the finest tooth blade for the circular saw you can find and make sure the cut is straight.

 

[Eud]

it works...you are cutting plastic, not ironwood....running it backward means the plastic doesnt get sucked into and caught in the depth of the teeth in the blade...it is simply cut by the backside of the carbide tip, which is more then sharp enough to cut plastic...another option is to just by a plastic cutting blade...i bought one last week cost me ($14.00) to cut a sheer decent water fall for a customer, the finish after the cut was beautiful...i am pretty sure it has 140 teeth.

Nice. I had no idea.

My first attempt was with a "plywood/paneling" blade which had like 200 teeth. It worked terribly. Melted like crazy.

Second attempt was with a brand new carbide blade with a much lower number of teeth and it worked so well (and made me look like Frosty the Snowman), so that was why I recommended that. I'll definitely try the backward thing, and I'll see if I can find a plastic cutting blade online. The local big box didn't have them.

 

[79chopperdr]

Lots of good info. I use a table saw and found blade depth affects the quality of the cut a lot also.

Here is a cool reference I found too.

https://system.netsuite.com/core/me...6-AcS60bsT&vid=wJLZMnm-Ab3QokeL&cktime=114302

 

[KusabiKuri]

With cutting acrylic you need to go slower. The slower you go the less melt you'll have. I use a jigsaw for all my cutting and with a fine-tooth blade/not rushing, cuts come out great.

 

[leveldrummer]

i used a 4 flute router bit and it cut super clean and smooth, guides assure nice straight cuts. give it a shot,

I tried to cut with a table saw before and it did rather well too, but not near as clean as the router did. and ive never tried the backwards blade like everyone is suggesting.

 

[Pastey]

I ran to Home Depot and picked up a fine toothed blade. Worked perfectly.

 

[Gorgok]

I assume the backwards blade is only really useful if your teeth lean forward instead of backwards. Forward lean takes bites, while backwards scrapes. Reversing a forward lean would sort of make it lean backwards...

Problem with backwards lean and backwards blades is they tend to lift the material. As long as you know that and counter it, its fine.

 

[knap_123]

I had some 1/2" cut today at a glass shop for $10.