DC4HD melted.

[original-reefland]

I have an AquaController Pro with an attached DC4HD (Puchased 06-14-2005), serial# DC4HD60000. This better be covered under warrantee.

I only have a single item plugged into this unit which is my halide portion of my Aquaspace light. My appologies in advanced if I come across a bit upset, but Neptune products are not cheap and this was not an expected result from a HD version that is stated to be fuse protected (and I have it installed in a GFI protected outlet).

This is not a new setup, the DC4HD has been controlling my lighting system since June 2005 when I purchased the DC4HD and the Aquacontroller has turned off the halides on elevated water temperatures.

My DC4HD models are away from the tank in a protected, ventilated cabinet where water can not get at them.

See pictures below:

I was able to use a razor to get the lighting plug good as new (removed the melted plastic and discoloration) and plugged it into a normal outlet and everything works fine -- nothing seems wrong with the lighting system.

I removed the 4 screws holding the face plate on to look at the inside for damage, everything looks ok from what I can see. However, I can not move the face plate enough to get a good look because the wires inside are melted to the case cover.

Since this should be under warrantee I didn't mess with anything. I put the cover back on and removed the unit from my system.

 

[clp]

Please send me an email to support@neptunesys.com, and we'll get you a replacement DC4. I definitely want find out what caused this DC4 to melt.

Curt

 

[spyro]

I have also had some problems with the DC4DHs. I bought them to replace the Intermatic electronic switches that have been turning my MH lamps ON/OFF for more than 5 years.
My DC4DHs will not turn lamps off but WILL turn them ON. I tested everything including the AC junior on my bench and everything works, but when in my canopy, the lights do not switch off!

After talking with Tec Support, I found out that the DC4DH's max operating temperature is 104 degrees and that exceeding this temperature may cause them to not function. For $150 a piece they should be designed to work at much higher temperatures. My original Intermatic electronic timers have worked for 5 years and they only cost me $20 each!

I absolutely love the AC Junior...but I bought it specifically to control my lighting and I can't relocate the DC4DHs without long extension cords.

Is anyone else having heat realted problems?
Is there a third pary device, with a higher operating temperature, that will do the same thing as the DC4DHs ?

I am seriously thinking of returning the controller and DC4DHs if I can't solve this problem.

 

[original-reefland]

Please send me an email to support@neptunesys.com, and we'll get you a replacement DC4. I definitely want find out what caused this DC4 to melt.

e-mail sent. Thanks.

 

[original-reefland]

I absolutely love the AC Junior...but I bought it specifically to control my lighting and I can't relocate the DC4DHs without long extension cords.

I took the long extension cord route myself. I personally don't want any outlets or electrical devices near humid salty air / water splashes.

I have all my electronic equipment, electrical plugs, etc off to the side of the aquarium in a ventilated cabinet where they can not get wet.

A view of the cabinet with doors open, before I added the Aquacontroller Pro. The DC4 are mounted on the other side which keeps all the wires out of view.

 

[rach78978]

looks liek the plug was slightly out and it arc'd, causing the damamge. that is usually how these things happen

 

[RGibson]

reach 78978 that plug was not problem ,a max working tem of the control has a great deal to do with what happen.Rich i would get my money back.

 

[original-reefland]

Neptune has given me an RMA number to return the device.

The plug was in a far as it would go.

 

[spyro]

Temp

Temp

I agree. I think that the low max temp of 102 degrees is inadequate. Also, when I ran the DC4HDs they got extremely hot. I expect better for $150 each for the DC4HDs and returned everything to marine depot. I went back to the cheap Intermatic individual timers for each MH ballast. They have been working great for the last 5 years with no problems and I never had anything "melt" using these timers.

When I replace all of my old Blueline ballasts with IceCaps someday I will try conventional X10 control again.

reach 78978 that plug was not problem ,a max working tem of the control has a great deal to do with what happen.Rich i would get my money back.

 

[spyro]

Extension Cords

Extension Cords

All of my ballasts and timers have been working fine for the last 5 years. They are all high above the MH reflectors in my canopy that is vented by a commercial grade "greenhouse" type exhaust fan that moves the warm air outdoors. Never had any problems with water splashes and if I did my lights would get hit before any outlets or ballasts. It is so hot in my canopy that any moisture evaporates almost instantly and remember salt doesn't evaporate and as such the air is not salty.

Although long extension cords may work, your experience and the low max ambient operating temperature made me think twice about using the DC4HDs. I wonder if these units are UL tested/approved. I did not see a UL sticker on them. The cheap intermatic timers ARE UL tested and approved and are safer in my opinion.

I took the long extension cord route myself. I personally don't want any outlets or electrical devices near humid salty air / water splashes.

I have all my electronic equipment, electrical plugs, etc off to the side of the aquarium in a ventilated cabinet where they can not get wet.

A view of the cabinet with doors open, before I added the Aquacontroller Pro. The DC4 are mounted on the other side which keeps all the wires out of view.

 

[Reefer Maddness]

Crap.....this tread is not what I wanted to see. I just invested in an ACII set up w/ dc4hd. I had to send the first dc4hd back because it would not follow commands from the controller. Now I see others having issues. I hope Neptune keeps its customers posted as to the reasons for the malfunctions. Many of us have their products sitting in our homes with our families. I would hope that the company would let us know if there is a design flaw in the dc4hd or are these just isolated instances.

EDIT: Note that NS was great in sending out a replacement and i think their ACII is great. it just worries me to see these dc4hd issues.

 

[clp]

We have not received the DC4HD yet, so the root cause of the problem is not known. What ever the cause we'll take the appropriate action, even if that involves recalling all the units in the field (I doubt that this will be necessary). Out of the thousands of DC4HD in the field, this is the first instance of this type of failure, so I suspect that it is an isolated manufacturing defect.

Curt

 

[RGibson]

Curt have you found out the problem with the DC4HD-Rich Durso sent back to you?

 

[clp]

Don't have it yet.

Curt

 

[original-reefland]

Any minute now!

Status: In Transit
Scheduled Delivery: Sep 8, 2005

Shipped to: SAN JOSE, CA, US

Sep 8, 2005
7:46 A.M.
SAN JOSE, CA, US
OUT FOR DELIVERY

BTW - I got the replacement DC4HD, thanks. I haven't hooked it up yet as I want to hear your comments first incase you think I need to do something different.

 

[RGibson]

Curt have you found out the problem with the DC4HD-Rich Durso sent back to you?

 

[RustySnail]

Well I'd say that 3x250w HQI is probably a bit much for a single power cord (just guessing that this is a possible catalyst for the problem). What I dont understand is why the DC4HD would fail electrically before blowing a fuse.

 

[original-reefland]

I was thinking the same thing, but each socket is rated for 12 amps and each 250w bulb does not draw 4 amps. 250w bulbs tend to be in the 3.x amp range so that should have left plenty of extra amps range.

Just in case that may have something to do with it, I rewired my AB Aquaspace and made it a 4 plug fixture. 1 for actinics (already existed), and one for each halide (added two plugs). I now have the Aquacontroller doing staggered starts on the bulbs as well at two minute intervals.

Even if the unit did draw to much current, it should have blown the fuse and not had a meltdown.

 

[RGibson]

AT-T and Bell South had the same problem 35 years ago with the Blue Box used with the X-10.

 

[clp]

The investigation into the root cause of the failure is incomplete, but I'll give you an update on what we do know. The heat that caused the plastic to deform was located right at the plug socket. The circuit board, components, and wiring to the sockets were in pristine condition.
The hot and neutral copper wires which connect from the circuit board to the socket assembly have some oxide/corrosion at the connection point in the ac receptacle. Both the hot and neutral wire connectors appear damaged. I would normally assume that this was caused by water, but Rich assures me that the DC4 did not get wet, and water did not run down the cord into the outlet.
It appears that localized heating occurred from either a resistive connection (likely water or salt water) between hot & neutral, or an ohmic connection from wire to socket connector). Either of these conditions would not necessarily result in the fuse blowing in the DC4 as the current draw would probably be less the fuse rating.
Here is what I suspect happened:
- For some reason (water, defective connector, etc.) the wire connection to the socket was not the typical 3 to 6 milliohms; it much higher.
- Localized heating occurred at the connection point. The hot temperature further degraded the connection, resulting in more heating.
- The heating caused the connection to become an open circuit, and the DC4 outlet failed.

What doesn't add up for me is that both the hot and neutral show localized heating. If it were a manufacturing defect I expect only one of the connections to be damaged. The connectors are UL approved and handle 120V @ 15 Amps. Some external stimulus caused both connections to fail. The connector has been sent back to the manufacturer for failure analysis. While we are waiting for final results I recommend that DC4 owners:

- Make sure that all cords plugging into any outlet have drip loops.
- Feel the temperature around the outlets of the DC4 after an appliance has been on for its maximum duration. Warm is OK, but if it is very hot there may a problem.

If anyone feels that their DC4 has a problem or would like us to inspect/repair it, please call or send an email to support@neptunesys.com. Include your name, phone, and the serial number of the DC4.

Curt