DI Resin

[jvr1102]

I set up my RO/DI system and my TDS meter shows 130 coming out of the faucet and 0 on the way to my tub. My problem is the resin is turning brown every 30 gallons.....Any suggestions on what could be going on? or ideas as to why?

 

[hobbby3]

My DI turns brown after my second 30 gallon water change but still maintains 3 TDS or under on the output for about 3 months. I personally wait until it reaches 5 TDS before changing it.

After turning brown what is your TDS reading?

 

[downbeach]

Is it possible that you have the waste line connected to the DI chamber?

 

[jvr1102]

My DI turns brown after my second 30 gallon water change but still maintains 3 TDS or under on the output for about 3 months. I personally wait until it reaches 5 TDS before changing it.

After turning brown what is your TDS reading?

Well this is the second go around and it's still 0

 

[jvr1102]

Is it possible that you have the waste line connected to the DI chamber?

No my waste is right after the membrane before the DI

 

[greg0385]

High co2 will kill resin life. If you have well water then thats prob the problem as that was mine. Easy fix is to run the water out of the membrane to a container with a airstone then pump it back into your di resin chamber. If you need more info just send.me a PM
Goodluck
Greg

 

[jvr1102]

High co2 will kill resin life. If you have well water then thats prob the problem as that was mine. Easy fix is to run the water out of the membrane to a container with a airstone then pump it back into your di resin chamber. If you need more info just send.me a PM
Goodluck
Greg

Chicago water no well

 

[sleepydoc]

My resin turns brown prematurely as well (it's been brown for 3 months and my TDS is still 0). Never found out exactly why. I E-mailed BRS and got the reply below. If you have a TDS meter and it's reading 0 after the DI canister, it doesn't matter what color the resin is - it's working fine. (remember the color is meant as an indicator of function, the resin doesn't depend on the color to do its job.

Some peoples water supply can make the Di resin Change color faster than
some other water supplies. Really when it changes color it is just a good
time to start watching your TDS meter. There are a lot of things that can
cause the DI resin to change color quick. The most common of which is high
CO2 in your water source. If that's the case there are technically things
you can do to mitigate that but in most situations its just more cost
effective to buy more DI resin.​

 

[Mavrk]

What is the TDS reading of just the RO water, not the RO/DI water? That is to say the water after the membrane, but before the DI?

 

[disc1]

Is that measured with a built in dual TDS meter? Those usually don't read the incoming tap. They read before and after the DI stage. If that is the case then you've got a leaky membrane. Probably needs to be pushed in better.

 

[jvr1102]

What is the TDS reading of just the RO water, not the RO/DI water? That is to say the water after the membrane, but before the DI?

110ish,

I have a in line TDS meter out of the faucet and after the DI stage

 

[Kabuto]

You need to test 1) at the faucet 2) after the RO 3) After the DI. After the RO you should have a 95% or greater reduction in TDS. After the DI should be 0.

 

[~JSG~]

after my membrane it is about 28 before it hits the DI. Starting TDI is about 1100. . .that being said you should follow these good peoples advice and shoot for way under 100. I know of people getting there TDI down to 4-5 after the membrane but then again they have starting TDI of like 400-500.