Diffrence in halides?

Most likely the 'grow halide' is for hydrophonics. It probably has a color temp range somewhere between 4500k to 6500k which would appear extremely yellow. Don't try skimping on the bulb, it is an important factor. Stick to a well known brand like... Iwasaki, XM, Ushio, Reeflux line, or Aqualine Buschke for example.

Here is an excellent website to compare PAR values to different types of ballasts
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/
 
thanks, because i was going to buy a grow light on ebay it was a metal halide 250 but i didnt know if you could just change the bulb or what
 
The halides actual components are all the same. The only thing is you need to make sure you get the bulb you want cause they will come with a lower kelvin 2000-8000k not quiet where you want so just buy a different bulb. I recommend Hamilton. Not sure if you are looking to buy one or just have one laying around that you want to use to save money either way make sure it is also a metal halide and not high pressure sodium like alot of grow lights. Some do run both styles of bulbs. Hope this helps you out. My opinion much easy, cheaper and usaully more compatible with the aquarium enviroment. Meaning were made knowing that water is around them not meaning water proof they just took that in to consideration when corrosion comes into play.
 
who is kalvin? and why can't he handle the high with grow lights?

The Kelvin (K) is just a reference to the color of the lamp in the luminaire. There isn't any reason the luminaire (light fixture) can't handle any reference to Kelvin color. As long as all the hardware and lamps match as specified (IE: matching lamps with appropriate ballast).

I have been under the impression that some of those grow lights are just inexpensive magnetic ballasts and reflectors.

IMHO, I would definitely go with a proven product for our hobby; since we are talking about a wet and salty environment!
IME, Those electronic ballast are much better than magnetic anyway.
 
Back
Top