DIY Dual Head Peristaltic Pump help

oh, these are CW rotation which will tend to unscrew my coupling. I've put some locktite on the threads to prevent this, but if it does unscrew, i'll simply tap another screw through the joint.
 
They don't have nearly enough torque for the task at hand. They are also not what you expect them to be. The spindle motor is not a stepper or server motor... the head motor is a server (or stepper).
 
He wasn't trying to build the pump, just connect two together and he has it working. The concept of building one has a certain appeal to it though.
 
Yup there are dozens of sources for peristaltic heads. Many of us have cole parmer "masterflex" or "ismatec" pumps. They pop up on eBay all the time.
 
Often there are peristaltic pumps sold that are made for commercial dish washing machines or for dispensing soap. Also there are new units made for dispensing syrup. Unless your circuit board savy IMO it is best to avoid the digital pumps and expect to convert any variable speed pump with a resistor to a fixed speed pump.

Expect a laboratory grade peristaltic pump used intermittently to outlive yourself. I have some Masterfex (Barnant) units that are over 30 years old.

The european ebay actually sells nearly all the cheap peristaltic pumps used for dishwashers and syrup for much less that the same pumps are sold in the USA. They sell a nice gang unit of three pumps side by side mounted on a sheet of stainless steel. In this country they are used for dishwashing machines serviced by Ecolab. They are single speed, single direction (CW) 100-120 volt units, 50 or 60 hertz.

One of the largest expenses of using laboratory grade pumps is the cost of the specifically needed tubing. Especially if your expecting to use Kalkwasser or alkalinity solutions. The tubings used for highly alkaline solutions have short life spans and typically run around $2 per foot or more.
 
The problem with a potentiometer run pumps are numeous. firts off a motor will often not starta tat a low rpm so you nmust start the pump at a higher rpm then turn the potentiometer down to the speed you wish to run the pump at. Plus most potentiometers are only single turn therefore can not be very fine tuned. The older single turn potentiometer pumps can have their potentiometer replaced with a 10 turn potentiometer and these have a locking mechanism on them to assure the speed is maintained between pump switchings, but it still does not help with low rpm starts.

If I buy a pump with a potentiometer I find the potentiometer position that allows slow running and will allow the pump to start without further adjustment. Then I measure the resistance and replace the potentiometer with a resistor amaking it a fixed speed dependable pump.

I have 90 to 120 volt Materflex L/S pumps with potentiometers, 90 to 120 volt Masterflex I/P pumps with potentiometers, and 12 VDC Masterflex C/L pumps with Potentiometers, also 12 VDC field portable pumps with potentiometers. They are all analog pains in the butt. I slowly convert them all to fixed rate pumps as needed. I like the repeat accuracy of my digital Masterflex variable speed pumps, but they typically are no good for use with programmers or timers as they need to be manually turned back on or reset anytime the power is turned off to them.
 
i use an APT instruments pump for my ATO actually (SP300FOC). I paid about 120 bucks for it (with box, switch, and cord). I would have made my own, but the price was good and i was in an emergency (out of the country when my SP3000 crapped out). The pump seems fine for this application. Not super high quality or anything, but works well and seems robust. It's not as quiet as the ones i just completed with the Grainger motors though....yet pretty quiet.

What i have here works well for my 2 part needs. I'm not suggesting that this is the only way, just one way - and yes, it works quite well.
 
i assume you're asking fatman? I'm just using simple silicone. It has lasted on my previous pumps about 8-12 months before neededing replacement (pure water - pushing through my kalk reactor).
 
Nope... asking you :)

Stu mentioned he only gets a week or two out of the silicone tubing in a Masterflex 24 head. The Pharmed and Norprene tubing is rated at 4000 hours vs 80-100 for the silicone. Howevemr the Pharmed and Norprene may not last nearly that long due to the PH of the alk solution.
 
Not sure what the "Limited pumping life. " really means as far what we would pump through it.... anyone know ?

"http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=Tubing_Viton.htm&Title=Viton%20Tubing"

VITON® Tubing
Advantages:


Our most chemical-resistant tubing.
Resistant to corrosives, solvents, and oils at elevated temperature.
Low gas permeability.

Limitations:


Limited pumping life.

Application Suitability:
Acids: Excellent
Alkalies: Excellent
Organic solvents: Variableâ€"test before using
Pressure: Good
Vacuum: Good
Viscous fluids: Good
Sterile fluids: Fair
 
IF you look at the coleparmer site, there is a tubing life page also.

http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=Tubing_LSLife.htm&id=773

PRECISON:
LStublife1.gif

LStublife3.gif


HIGH PERFORMANCE:
LStublife2.gif

LStublife4.gif
 
As you can see (chemical resistance asside) Viton is the worst choice from a mechanical standpoint. From a chemical standpoint it is the most durable.
 
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