DIY Skimmer and an attempt at making my own tube

Lakee, what you described will work, that’s close to how I did the small tube (although I do plan on putting a small strip on the outside of the seam) there is a thread here, of someone who combined sheets together to build a long tank and you could not tell where the seams were.
I’m not that experienced with acrylic, I really would not trust a seam like that done by me, this is going to have water pressure and vibration from the motor.
 
I saw that thread, olemos--it looked pretty sweet too. It probably wouldn't hurt to reinforce that seam with a piece of acrylic over it. You may want to consider beveling the edges of the strip and putting it on the inside though.

Keep up the good work!
 
Getting the last bend "just right" so that the seams match is going to be tuff to say the least. The joint will be just fine as is :)
 
Have you considered using a 55 gallon food grade plastic drum? Other than being clear, it is perfectly smooth and round (21.5-22 inch diameter), and cost is cheap.

Also, great work on the design of your skimmer using the computer renderings, did not see a comment on them and was quite impressed.

Best of luck.

-Charles
 
I could have written that sentence better, I apologize.

The drums are not clear that I have been able to find, but are a perfect 21.5"-22" cylinder.
 
There have been a few that have tried to use the drum for a skimmer the biggest problem is finding a solvent to work with the HDPE plastic..
 
I did consider drums at one point, in fact I have two I use for RO and water changes, they are slightly smaller than a 55 and have screw on rings that hold down the covers, that easily can be adapted to a cone, you would have the ring holding down the cone instead of a bunch of screws, so glue would not be needed and the crucial point at where you need to check the bubbles, would still be well visible.
I’m not too fussy about looks, but for what I have in mind, it will be necessary to see what’s happening inside the skimmer.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13780368#post13780368 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by olemos
I’m not too fussy about looks, but for what I have in mind, it will be necessary to see what’s happening inside the skimmer.

How much do you need to see? I imagine you will WANT to see, and could make a solid argument that you need to see it during the experimental construction phases of the skimmer... but do you really NEED to see into the reaction chamber during its daily function?

If you only need to see into the skimmer for the construction phases then I think you could use a sacrificial barrel for the prototype design, allowing the solvent issues to be only semi-permanent.

One of the most inspirational tanks I have ever seen used two vertical viewing windows. (http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-11/totm/index.php) If it is very difficult to find a proper solvent to make these viewing windows, then make them improperly, and temporary. Get the internal design worked out then make it look pretty.

I am not in any way trying to sidetrack the thread or your focus, but it seems to me the composition of the cylinder which serves as your reactions chamber is ultimately trivial, and your computer drawings showed a great deal of thought. When you encountered difficulty in constructing the cylinder using a barrel mold you added a box, I ask, why not use the barrel?

-Charles
 
Rather than make a 'cylinder with a reducer at the top' you could make both into one... a cone shape. If you are rolling a cylinder, you just make one end larger than the other after all (And much less material). If rolling cylinders and cones is out, it looks like you are doing a fine job of making radius-bent edges.... in which case why not just make a giant pyramid skimmer (square base and top with a transition to a circular neck at the top). If you use a bubble plate, the 'tangential injection' and 'cyclone' things aren't so important. And you dont have to stick with square if you dont want to... you could make a pentagonal, hexagonal, or octagonal base... I think a pentagonal bottom/top would be pretty slick... just so you could call it 'My Pentagon'...lol.
 
Charles, I hear what you are saying, but I already made the parts for the body, so might as well use them.
I’m not sure if you understood or not, the first cylinder I made will go inside the square box, so the main chamber will be round.
For what I have in mind, it is important to see the whole inside of the skimmer in order to adjust spin and turbulence, most are only concerned with turbulence at the neck, but I strongly believe it is just as important to have as minimal as possible throughout the body.
I fallowed Marks thread and that skimmer is like a piece of art, outstanding workmanship.

Hahn, I don’t have plans for a bubble plate, the body will be fed by 4 different adjustable pipes that could be aimed in any direction.
I wil try to leave the skimmer in a way that it cold always be changed at a later time, having a more defined cone on is always a possibility.
 
Why are bubble plates necessary? How does turbulence in the skimmer hinder skimming?

I have a custom made skimmer from 6" PVC. I can't see inside, but I bet it's turbulent as all get out. Should I add a bubble plate?

Thx
Jason
 
Jason, lately people tend to get the biggest skimmer they can afford or fit in their systems, as skimmers get larger, ether in diameter, height, or both, in order to keep up with the head pressure pumps have to be bigger, a down fall in some cases is turbulence, so bubble plats are added to lower the turbulence inside the body.
Many people consider a counter current skimmer (tall narrow body with water entering at the top, passing slowly through air bubbles normally produced by air stones and exiting at the bottom) the most efficient out there and from past experiences, so do I.
A problem with these skimmers is the maintenance, air stones get clogged very fast, air pumps often blow their diaphragms and are noisy, the bigger you go in size the bigger this problem becomes.
Now one of the reasons these skimmers work well, is because there is very little turbulence inside them, when bubbles move to fast or keep bumping in to things, the proteins and all the gunk will have a hard time attaching to the bubbles, from this comes the theory for “low turbulence”
One thing you have to watch out for in a larger body, is if the bubbles move to slow, they will start to attach to each other, becoming to big there for losing their optimal size, to avoid this, you will need to keep them moving in a orderly fashion, from this comes the theory for “tangential movement” this will also allow for the bubbles to take a little longer to reach the top, spending more time in the skimmer. :)


Octavio
 
Started the bottom box and flanges.
When I started the flanges, I realized to make them full pieces, a lot of material was going to be wasted, so I decided to cut 4 strips, 45 them and then glue them together.

In order to get more gluing surface (an extra ¼”) I routed them with this bit

f1.jpg


f2.jpg



I also did the same thing for the bottom

f3.jpg


f4.jpg


f5.jpg
 
olemos,

looking good!

Tell me you did not try to glue the corners of the upper acrylic pieces in place with weldon 3or4.........

I will be amazed if you do not glue the upper flange piece to the lower ones.

Stu
 
No :lol: I only glued the corners of the flanges, the second set is clamped on only to insure the proper fitting, when I bent the box, I’m off buy 1/8” in length, so I really have a rectangle instead of a perfect square, so wanted to make sure wile gluing the corners, I was fallowing the same pattern of the other one, there is also a protective piece of plastic at the corners so glue doesn’t seep down and the flange is not glued to the box either will need to make the holes for the screws.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can I use for a seal between the flanges?
 
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