DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[saltee dood]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13178899#post13178899 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer

saltee dood,
A series of flats along the front of stand would probably be your best bet. For that, consider small supports at each corner. For a 46g tank, you could get away with much smaller lumber then 2X4s If you post exact dimensions I may be able to work something up for you.

good deal, my preliminary plan was to go with 1x4s anyway, according to many answers I saw given in this thread I determined that the tank *should* be small enough to go with those instead of the heavier wood.

The tank itself is 36x12 on the ends and 18" at the peak of the bow. Need to go 40-42" tall to accommodate the tall 29G sump, the sump is 30x12 so I have to ensure the stand has enough internal room.

My rough estimate of the angle of the bow is ~62 degrees at the corners.

Really appreciate your dedication to helping us out here.

 

[saltee dood]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13179219#post13179219 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by inachu
The green parts look like they hover above the ground not touching ground at all.

they aren't

those are screw strips to connect the upper and lower frames to the legs. They aren't intended to take any weight, so they arent touching the ground.

 

[eme]

RedEDGE2k1, Sorry I didnt read each and every post either. No doubt the finished product is superb and a credit to you but (and correct me if I'm wrong) ..
- you used 2x6 and 2x4s as well as ply, I'm not risking plywood only with that design if you wouldnt!
- you spent $700 on power tools on page 1 .. I gave up counting after that !

... the search for 2x6 continues

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13182702#post13182702 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eme
RedEDGE2k1, Sorry I didnt read each and every post either. No doubt the finished product is superb and a credit to you but (and correct me if I'm wrong) ..
- you used 2x6 and 2x4s as well as ply, I'm not risking plywood only with that design if you wouldnt!

I will first say that plywood is MUCH, MUCH, MUCH stronger than 2x4s will ever be.

You're taking my 2x's "out of context."

I didn't build a complete 2x4 frame and then wrap it in 3/4" plywood.

I built a 3/4" plywood frame, with a single 2x6 header above the front cabinet doors so that I could omit the center brace between the cabinet doors.

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13182702#post13182702 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eme

- you spent $700 on power tools on page 1 .. I gave up counting after that !

... the search for 2x6 continues

I don't know where you're getting that dollar amount from, the only "major" required tool I bought was a $100 rotary saw.

Of course, I bought a $100 jigsaw, $70 power sander, etc throughout the build but you will note I made it clear none of those were required. I just like buying tools.

 

[RocketEngineer]

saltee dood,

Working the geometry, this is what I came up with. All dimensions are for the OUTSIDE of the stand.

Front Flat is 16" long. The two Angled Flats are 30 degrees from the front flat and are 11-7/8" long. The ends are 12-5/8" and the back is 36-9/16" long. This gives you a stand thats 18-9/16" front to back. Using 1X4 material (actual width 0.75") You will support everything but two ~4.5" long sections of the curved front rim. As such, I recommend a layer of plywood on top to spread the weight out and add support in these two areas.

 

[jamiep]

What are the disadvantages of using leveling feet on these stands? My current stand, a bought one from the supplier, is sitting forward on a slight tilt which is the main reason I'm looking to build a new stand for my 29gallon although I had thought of spreading 6 leveling feet around the base

 

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13189971#post13189971 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jamiep
What are the disadvantages of using leveling feet on these stands? My current stand, a bought one from the supplier, is sitting forward on a slight tilt which is the main reason I'm looking to build a new stand for my 29gallon although I had thought of spreading 6 leveling feet around the base

For a tank that small levelers are fine.

Don

 

[miwoodar]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13095964#post13095964 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer

miwoodar - To be honest, I don't think you would want even a 2X10 supporting that kind of span. Instead, a single center brace would mean you can have two 42" spans and as such would only need a 2X6.

Hey Rocket - thanks for the advice. Here's the stand. I used pocket screws to attach the top frame. The vertical rails were attached to the top and bottom frames with both screws and liquid nails. The bottom frame was built out of 2x4's laid flat again using pocket screws and glue. The vertical members were assembled with direct screws and glue. The sump is going to go in before the front-to-back top rails (six in all) and plywood cap are installed. This thing is clearly more solid than any stand I've ever built out of wood.

 

[vvolfe1]

RocketEngineer and all the others, Thank you for the work you have done on the stands. I do have a question for you. I just recently got an acrylic 150 and would like to build a stand for it like the original. The 150 has 2 overflows aready in it and are very clos to the back edge. I was wondering if it would be ok to use a 1x8 on the back for the stand instead of a 2x4 or 2x6? Also was thinking of putting in 2 more cross members to stop it from twisting.
Here is a pic of what I was thinking.

 

[Logzor]

I may have missed in the thread the answer to my question about using not using the 2x2 piece due to my bulkheads being in the way in my 90 with corner overflow.

Can I just use all 2x6 with pocket screws and skip the 2x2 nail strips?

 

[flying53brian]

RocketEngineer:

Can I use leveling feet on a 48.5" x 24.5" stand? it is a 120 gallon tank. The load per mount is 700 lbs.

I bought these at McMaster Carr and they are for heavy duty machines.

Thank you

 

[wrott]

So I built the stand for my new 120g.
Everything looks good, but after skinning the sides, I noticed that I can see light between one of the supporting 2x4s and the top frame.
All is level.
It is hardly measurable, but I can see light. What are the tolerances of this design? I used pine, do you think with tank and water, it will even out?
TIA for all advice.
Rod

 

[AJDuran]

First off very helpful thread. i have some questions i have a 36"x 36"x24" it came with a stand but due to the fact that i cant get it through door i'll have to build a new one in my room it is acrylic with no rim i'm planning on using the 2x6 and plywood on the outside of all the sides except the front. it also has an external overflow should i build it just the 36" of the tank or extend out to the overflow? Also my dad has an upholstery shop and they have these heavy duty numatic staplers that they use on couches would this be okay instead of the screws?any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

[aztecaphoto]

Hi everybody and RocketEngineer:
Great thread!!!!
I´ve read almost all the entire post, and I´m willing to do it.
The only thing that I´m worried about are EARTHQUAKES!.
Living in México City, you know how it is.
Doing this DIY by myself (no carpenter experience at all) , I´m not quite shure about racking.
I can understand that all the weight will be on 2x4 supports, and then transfered to the bottom frame. But how about a "doble way" racking? An earthquake can switch from right to left, and front to back, AND circular, AND corner to corner, and then change direction suddenly! AND top to bottom!!!.
Any way, I would like to have some advice about triangles in corners, racking cross, and so on. The point is to get the strongest support, with the propper elasticity to avoid mayor earthquake damages at one point (well, if I can´t survive, whats the point anyway? (Sorry, bad mexican sense of humor jejeje).
The tank will be 56" long x 24" wide x 20" height, and the stand will be 36" tall.
I was just in the way to do it with steel frame, but is as strong as "rigid". This kind of steel was the guilty material about ´85 earthquake dissaster. And no racking reinforcement at all.
(sorry about my english, getting rusty "as time goes by...")

Thanks

 

[RocketEngineer]

vvolfe1,
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1169964&perpage=25&pagenumber=9
Almost second to last post on that page has a really good way of dealing with bulkhead close to the edge.

Logzor,
I would go 2X4 on the legs simply because the 2X4 legs are much stronger then needed. It will give you larger openings and weigh less. If you have the pocket drill tool and you skin it with plywood, I don't see why you could do away with the screw strips.

flying53brian,
What kind of floor is under the tank? Those feet work really well if you are placing the stand on a concrete floor but consider the fact that you have 300 pounds in that small little area. If you instead used shims you spread the weight of the tank over the entire area of the bottom frame. Also, by using the entire width of the stand, you ensure that the weight is transfered to multiple floor joists.

wrott,
In each corner of the stand, there are two verticals but only one is needed to take the weight of the tank. If the other one has a gap, it will catch the top frame as things settle. A pic would help with a definitive answer.

AJDuran,
Making the stand deep enough to cover the plumbing is a personal choice. If I were to build an all plywood stand, I may consider using staples but for a stand made of lumber, I would use screws. In the end screws are a lot stronger then staples.

aztecaphoto,
The best way to keep things from turning into parallelogram is to face all four sides with plywood. The plywood is very strong in tension and as the stand tries to go out of square, the plywood prevents the corners from moving further apart. The plywood will do the same job as the racking cross and corner triangles all in one. This is the same method used to make the wings on airplanes. So, once the structure is built, screw plywood panels on all four sides with a number of screws around the perimeter (~6"-8" apart should be plenty). For the front, cut the door openings out of the front panel rather then using a bunch of smaller pieces. Same goes for the back.

HTH Everyone.

 

[DodgeDude99]

on the 6 DIY stands i have made, i had used those mending plates like they use to construct trusses.

the 125 stand included 2 braces in the middle of the front and back frame with 2 connectors on the top & bottom of each side to hold the front and back frame together, all out of 2x4s.

to keep it from twisting i used plywood on the deck for the tank and the inside shelf for the sump. then the sides were just skinned for wood just for looks.

strength was tested by setting a S10 truck on it.

the leveling feet worry me on a wood frame, i can see the stand twisting.

 

[aztecaphoto]

Thanks!
One more question:
Wich playwood thick should I use?
I was planning to put a sheet playwood on top to sit the tank, with a stirofoam(?) to avoid bumps. Thinking of 3/4, but once in HD I see is too heavy. Should I go for less thickness? Same for sides...
Dodge: what it makes me worried about mending plates, is that they "probably" add a kind of strech point, so instead of getting the wood elasticity, this joints will get all the strenght in case of an earthquake. I´m thinking not to use them because the same reason as "green joints" (first draw in this thread) are not top to bottom, to avoid this load going into screws.
Leveling will go with pieces of thin wood underneath. As a result of earthquakes, ground level is bumpy in almost the whole city.

Have you ever tried MSD wood (chilenian wood dryied in an oven)?
Or just go for plain pine wood?

Thanks. Almost made my mind...

 

[Logzor]

Thanks rocket, that clears things up a lot, I am somewhat new to woodworking.

Now, will a middle support beam be necessary on the top frame?

Also, can I use one of those nice skinned veneers, I want the outside looking somewhat nice?

 

[DodgeDude99]

i am from chicagoland, so earthquakes arent really a big concern.
you can check the building code in your area also see if pre-manufactured trusses are allowed in your area or not, that would be a good indicator if they hold up during an earthquake.

the construction lumber used in the US is kilned dried, so i am not sure if that is equivilent to MSD or not.