carlosngloria
Active member
Subscribing to the thread so I can have it for future reference. Great info.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter RocketEngineer
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Mykayel
New member
Not necessarily. I’ll say it again, homemade tank stands are usually way over built because they built by a gut feeling, not by facts. Structural wood connections use single shear screws all the time. Here is a connection from my old 55 gallon tank
Yes I did assume it was glass (I didn't assume tempered, I just used that value from the website, but I seriously doubt the Young's modulus is much different from tempered glass) but a plywood top wouldn’t make a difference. For those concerned about deflections, you need to know two equations illustrated in this little example. I would recommend keeping your deflections to l/600 which as you can see using a single 2x4 won’t work, but a 2x6 would give you a deflection of 0.033†or l/Defleciton of 1444.
Simple statics using the 100 lb force as I stated, just sum the moments about any point, I chose the corner labeled point A:
slevesque,
That should work fine. The corner braces do not carry any of the weight of the tank. They only carry shear loads caused when someone leans up against the tank. Four one foot long triangles properly attached to the frame will be able to handle a lot of shear loads before you start breaking screws or tearing the wood.
That should work fine. The corner braces do not carry any of the weight of the tank. They only carry shear loads caused when someone leans up against the tank. Four one foot long triangles properly attached to the frame will be able to handle a lot of shear loads before you start breaking screws or tearing the wood.
Jen D
New member
First of all, thanks for the thread. I know basically nothing about this stuff and it's been very helpful. I just have a question or two.
I want to build a stand like this for my 55g (48.25"x12.75"). The thing is I want to put a 29g (30.25"x12.50") inside the stand for a sump and in order to do that I would have to build the stand a little deeper than the 55g tank. I was thinking that I could make the inside of the stand 13" deep, leave off the screw strips and put a piece of plywood on top to set the 55g on. If I did this, would the plywood effectively distribute the weight of the 55g onto the 2x4s or would the it break under the weight?
I want to build a stand like this for my 55g (48.25"x12.75"). The thing is I want to put a 29g (30.25"x12.50") inside the stand for a sump and in order to do that I would have to build the stand a little deeper than the 55g tank. I was thinking that I could make the inside of the stand 13" deep, leave off the screw strips and put a piece of plywood on top to set the 55g on. If I did this, would the plywood effectively distribute the weight of the 55g onto the 2x4s or would the it break under the weight?
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Jen D, First I need a little more information about the 55G. Is it glass or acrylic? If glass, does it have a plastic frame around the bottom?
If the tank is glass and has the plastic frame, you only need to support the perimeter of the tank. This means you could leave off the plywood top and just rest the tank on the 2X4s.
You could use 2X2s screw strips and have the sump rest up against these. This would give you the space needed for the sump.
Hope that helps
If the tank is glass and has the plastic frame, you only need to support the perimeter of the tank. This means you could leave off the plywood top and just rest the tank on the 2X4s.
You could use 2X2s screw strips and have the sump rest up against these. This would give you the space needed for the sump.
Hope that helps
Jen D
New member
It's glass with plastic trim. I was going to use the plywood because the stand would be too deep to support the long sides of the tank if I make it with a 13" opening inside the stand. The tank would only rest on the 2x4s on the short sides.
I like the idea of the 2x2 screw strips. Now that I rethink it I could use the 2x4 screw strips, too. I had it in my head that the sump was going to be up against the short side of the stand, but it doesn't have to be... duh.
I like the idea of the 2x2 screw strips. Now that I rethink it I could use the 2x4 screw strips, too. I had it in my head that the sump was going to be up against the short side of the stand, but it doesn't have to be... duh.
tigerarmy40
New member
thanks rocketengineer!!! I built my first ever stand tonight with the help of your plans...here are some pics!
one question i have is why not make the green boards or screw boards the run entire hieght of the stand? and how should I go about putting a floor and top on it?
one question i have is why not make the green boards or screw boards the run entire hieght of the stand? and how should I go about putting a floor and top on it?
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Siffy
New member
As for a top and floor. If your tank has a glass bottom that's tempered a top isn't required. The tank can just sit on the 2x's. For a floor I'd just notch the corners out the size of the screw strips and install it through the opening at an angle it should fit. I'd make it the full width and length of the stand except at the corners.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
tigerarmy40 - That looks great. Nice job and thanks for posting the pics.
Siffy, Good point on the bottom. Notching it out around the screw strips would make it the full size and give ample room for equipment.
Keep the comments coming.
Siffy, Good point on the bottom. Notching it out around the screw strips would make it the full size and give ample room for equipment.
Keep the comments coming.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Well, since I closed on a house over the weekend and did some minor demo, I had some 2X4s lying around and figured I would build a stand/work bench.
First off, the stand is 50" X 20" X 32" and will eventually support a 75g tank. As the 2X4s were from a 1950s house, the dimensions were a little off from the 1.5" X 3.5"
The materials:
(4) 50"
(4) 16-5/8"
(4) 24-3/4"
(4) 31"
Box of 3" deck screws (2-1/2" recommended for new 2X4s)
Tools:
Chop Saw
Cordless Drill with Philips bit
Pic of the cut boards:
The top and bottom frames assembled:
And the completed stand:
Things I would have done differently:
1) A couple of clamps would have helped alot. Being old, the boards were not exactly straight
2) Pilot drilling all the holes
3) Would have used star drive screws instead of Philips
Enjoy my first attempt with very minimal tools. Have a good laugh but just remember we all started out with just the basics.
First off, the stand is 50" X 20" X 32" and will eventually support a 75g tank. As the 2X4s were from a 1950s house, the dimensions were a little off from the 1.5" X 3.5"
The materials:
(4) 50"
(4) 16-5/8"
(4) 24-3/4"
(4) 31"
Box of 3" deck screws (2-1/2" recommended for new 2X4s)
Tools:
Chop Saw
Cordless Drill with Philips bit
Pic of the cut boards:
The top and bottom frames assembled:
And the completed stand:
Things I would have done differently:
1) A couple of clamps would have helped alot. Being old, the boards were not exactly straight
2) Pilot drilling all the holes
3) Would have used star drive screws instead of Philips
Enjoy my first attempt with very minimal tools. Have a good laugh but just remember we all started out with just the basics.
Siffy
New member
Nice work, RE, you plan to finish it?
Torx or Hex screws would help if you don't plan to drill pilot holes. Phillips are designed to slip, so pilot holes are almost required to not be a pita.
If you do decide to use Phillips, make sure to use a large enough bit/driver to reduce excessive slipping.
Torx or Hex screws would help if you don't plan to drill pilot holes. Phillips are designed to slip, so pilot holes are almost required to not be a pita.
If you do decide to use Phillips, make sure to use a large enough bit/driver to reduce excessive slipping.
laud
New member
I am building a stand for a 180 or 210 gallon tank. I would prefer to stick with 2x4s instead of 2x8s.
In your opinion, would a couple center supports along the length of 72" be enough? to bypass the 2x8s of this plan? Possibly even 3 in the rear and 2 in the front?
Thanks,
Michael
In your opinion, would a couple center supports along the length of 72" be enough? to bypass the 2x8s of this plan? Possibly even 3 in the rear and 2 in the front?
Thanks,
Michael
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Siffy,
Since I just bought a house, I'm kind of strapped for cash and won't be setting up the 75 for a while. For now this will just stay a work bench. Later I plan to re-assemble it with some clamps and will finish it at that time.
Micheal,
Placing a 2X4 support in the center of the stand both front and back should be more then enough to keep things properly supported especially if its a glass tank.
Hope that helps.
Since I just bought a house, I'm kind of strapped for cash and won't be setting up the 75 for a while. For now this will just stay a work bench. Later I plan to re-assemble it with some clamps and will finish it at that time.
Micheal,
Placing a 2X4 support in the center of the stand both front and back should be more then enough to keep things properly supported especially if its a glass tank.
Hope that helps.
DwightKeenan
Member
This thread is GREAT!
I have my top and bottom built and all of the wood cut.
I am not sure I understand how I attach the legs to the top and bottom.
Do I screw from the bottom of the base and top of the top or just use the screw strips?
I have my top and bottom built and all of the wood cut.
I am not sure I understand how I attach the legs to the top and bottom.
Do I screw from the bottom of the base and top of the top or just use the screw strips?
Siffy
New member
Michael,
That should be fine given you limit yourself to a 4' span. I'm just thinking 2x4's should be fine on a 120g, so they're fine here too. I have a 60" stand (odd size, 70g, think 55g + 1' longer) factory built similarly. Double doors in the middle allow a lil over 24" opening in my case.
RocketEngineer,
I know how that is. Same position here for the past 2 months. Not the house, but tight budget for a bit. Why the re-assembly? Trying to straighten the boards?
Dwight,
You screw through the base sections into the screw strips and through the legs into the screw strips. That's it. Nothing directly binds the legs to either bases. I know, it seems too simple to be correct.
justanotherguy
New member
RocketEngineer - Thanks for the simple yet effect design.
As a trial run, I adjusted the dimensions of the stand and made a riser platform for our front loading washer/dryer set. Works great.
Waiting for the paint to dry.
Rock solid. No additional vibration.
But I have a question or two. I'm building my stand for a 135 gal acryllic tank. I plan to use the recommended 2x6 top frame with a pair of 2x4 cross braces. Then put a sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood on the top plus a sheet of foam. Anything else I should take into account when building a stand for an acryllic tank?
I am also considering using sheets of Formica or WilsonArt (from Home Depot) laminate instead of staining or painting the exterior. The interior will be painted and caulked to protect it and my carpet. Anyone else tried this? I've never had much luck staining and urethaning furniture and this seems like a reasonable alternative.
Has anyone ever used the StringTie connectors? They list the typical corrosion risks associated with metal in marine environments, but if they are painted over, won't they be protected?
Any thoughts?
todd
As a trial run, I adjusted the dimensions of the stand and made a riser platform for our front loading washer/dryer set. Works great.
Waiting for the paint to dry.
Rock solid. No additional vibration.
But I have a question or two. I'm building my stand for a 135 gal acryllic tank. I plan to use the recommended 2x6 top frame with a pair of 2x4 cross braces. Then put a sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood on the top plus a sheet of foam. Anything else I should take into account when building a stand for an acryllic tank?
I am also considering using sheets of Formica or WilsonArt (from Home Depot) laminate instead of staining or painting the exterior. The interior will be painted and caulked to protect it and my carpet. Anyone else tried this? I've never had much luck staining and urethaning furniture and this seems like a reasonable alternative.
Has anyone ever used the StringTie connectors? They list the typical corrosion risks associated with metal in marine environments, but if they are painted over, won't they be protected?
Any thoughts?
todd
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