DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[DwightKeenan]

Thanks Siffy, that is what I thought, but it did seem way to simple.

Cna I assume that I should screw the 2 @x$'s for each leg together first and then attach them to the screw strips?

I am no Bob Villa, so thanks for answering my questions.

 

[saltwaterfishlover]

this is a quick idea of what I want as a stand for my 120 4x2x2

stand would be 66"x36"x30" tall

what do you think would be the best top rails and should there be 3 top rails and center or 2 corner supports for the tank?

I like having the counter space around the tank for kitty tv and testing plus makes for more under tank space...
andy

 

[RocketEngineer]

Dwight,
Siffy got it correct. Just screw from the base frame into the screw strip, then set the legs in place and screw those to the screw strip, then screw the top frame to the screw strip. 2-4 screws in each place should be more then enough. If you screw from both sides of the frame's corners into the screw strips, it makes things much stronger.

Siffy,
The bottom frame has a wicked twist to it that I hope to fix. Funny though, where I plan on putting the stand, the floor is so out of whack that the stand sits almost perfect. Go figure.

Todd,
I love the box under the washer and dryer idea. I may have to copy that one.

As for the stand, from everything I have read about acrylic tanks, you want the stand to be as stiff as possible. I like the fomica idea because it would be easy to keep clean. If you put plywood under the fomica and attached it to all sides, you can really stiffen up the main beams. 2X6s should work for the weight especially if the stand is faced in plywood on the two long sides.

Andy,
Some thoughts on the matter. First I LIKE IT! Especially the part about the cat viewing area. I would tend towards making a stand for just the tank with two joists supporting the tank and a third for the front. For a tank that size I would definatly go 2X6 if it were only supported at the 66" mark. If you can, putting a leg under each corner of the tank would make things alot simpler. Let me work on this and I should be able to get you some ideas to consider over the weekend. Housework letting the brain work on autopilot is dangerous but with a challenge like this, makes the time fly.

Everyone who has read/posted. Thanks for the comments and don't be shy about posting similar stand pics or questions.

 

[Phisher]

Very nice thread.

I am also considering my next stand design to be similar to Andy's. Two main differences: smaller tank 36x18x18 and its acrylic. I built my first stand using corner posts like Rocket's diagram using all 2x4s on a 120g 48x24x24. This time I wanted to use 1x4s in a similar design. I was planning to double up on the horizontal supports but am now concerned about the stand "dipping" in the middle. Any thoughts?

One other thing I would mention from experience, my last design did not originally have a "top" of plywood like many have mentioned being unnecessary. I found resting the tank directly on the 2x4s a bad idea because of the less than straight nature of the boards, lots of high/low spots. I'm sure a planner or other tool could correct this but for those of use without access, I found shims, a sander, and 3/4" plywood a lot easier to get a good, level surface out of.

 

[samtheman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10483564#post10483564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by slevesque
Hi, what would be an optimal stand height for a 12" high tank?

About 7' high, but I like to overbuild to be safe, just like these stand designs.

 

[laud]

Rocket, thanks for all the plans!

Siffy, thanks for the modifications.

Here is the product of your hard work. hehe

 

[justanotherguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10623249#post10623249 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
Todd,
I love the box under the washer and dryer idea. I may have to copy that one.

As for the stand, from everything I have read about acrylic tanks, you want the stand to be as stiff as possible. I like the fomica idea because it would be easy to keep clean. If you put plywood under the fomica and attached it to all sides, you can really stiffen up the main beams. 2X6s should work for the weight especially if the stand is faced in plywood on the two long sides.

Check out my blog (little red house) for some details on the riser.

I plan to skin the 2x frame in plywood. Hadn't intended to skin the whole back. Just use 1' triangles in the corners. And the plywood on the front won't provide much structure anyway since most of it will be mostly just a place to mount Formica with a big opening for access. I've been thinking about the advantages of eliminating the support in the front. I like the idea of the big opening, but then I have to figure out how to hang doors to cover the opening. I like what laud has done. And I look forward to what you come up with for saltwaterfishlover.

One more thing. For the skin (but not the top which supports the tank), how much effect is there if I use 1/2" ply instead of 3/4"?

todd

 

[djc1026]

Here's my 6 foot stand for my 150, it's 40" high. Thanks for the design. It feels rock solid, but I'm not an engineer so I find myself really wanting to put in middle upright braces .

The modificiations on the bottom are where my 40 breeder sump will sit, and since it can't go between the supports I figured this would work.

Dave

 

[CMcNeil]

here is my 5' stand for my 150,they are very solid as a frame and super solid once skinned out.

 

[aomont]

Very interesting thread !!!! Thanks RE.
If you could please help me just step in this thread and shed some ideas on a fish breeding stand.
Anderson.

 

[slandis3]

ok heres a good qustion. In a few months we are going to start building our new tank. Its going to be a glass and plywood tank. 48" x 60" x 28"tall The stand desighn i had thought up would require about 22 2"x6". I want the stand 36" tall. some desighn ideas would be a big help.

 

[Siffy]

I would use the same design this thread is based upon with the addition of 2 horizontal runners sitting on their own legs (legs ~18" apart, 4 on each side). Both the top base and the additional support would rest on the addition leg. 2x2 screw strips could be used to hold them in place. And I would use 2x4s instead of 2x6s. Another horizontal member would also be added to the lower base to support the leg. This would also support plywood if you intend to put any as a floor inside the stand for a sump, but with a tank that large I would imagine a separate room for most equipment.

 

[slandis3]

The tank will have nothing under the stand. Its actually going in a wall so having no space under the stand is not a problem. the sump will sit against another wall. I guessing the full tank ( water rock corals etc.) will weigh somewhere around 3000lbs + so thats why i was thinking 2x6.

 

[RocketEngineer]

saltwaterfishlover
Here is the simplest idea I could come up with:

Orange = 66"
Red = 63"
Green = 34.5"
Yellow = 21"

Depending on what you made the top frame out of, you could either put a leg at each of the outer corners and at each corner of where the tank would sit for a total of 8 OR one leg at each outer corner, one leg under each of the front corners of the tank and one in the center at the back.

Phisher,
As 1X4's are significantly weaker under compression (more likely to bend), a good stiff 2X2 screw strip will be needed if you only have the front set of uprights. If you have all 8 uprights and attach them to make an "L" at each corner, you sould be just fine. For beams of that length, 1X4s sandwiched together should prevent any sag in the middle. Placing a piece of 1/2" plywood between the two boards would also help to stiffen it.

laud,
Glad I could help. Very nice. Keep me posted, attach a link to a build thread when you get that far.

djc1026,
Thanks for the pics. A good example of how to support a sump in one of these stands when it doesnt fit.

checkinhawk,
Considering the bare frame versus the final product, I'm impressed. I have also considered making the sides a little longer to cover up the pipes and wires. Now seeing this, I may do the same in the future.

aomont(Anderson),
Looking at your design, I would construct the levels in much the same way as this stand is made. The only difference is that instead of having the screw strip on the inside, consider putting it on the outside of the frames. Also, you can stack the frames on top of each other fairly easily.

slandis3,
Wow, have to think about this one. Check out the Large Tank forum. There are several plywood tanks in there and they show how those tanks were framed.

Thanks everyone for the posts. Keep the pictures coming.

 

[aomont]

Thank you for your input RE would the screw strip on the outside be of the same "width" (10 cm) or larger (15 cm) to match both uprights ? I´m also interested in knowing the difference between inside and outside screw strips ?

There will be room for 3 full stands. One will have a wall on the back and I can screw it to the wall. The other 2 would be in the middle of the room back to back on each other, that´s why I was thinking on using something to fasten them against the ceiling.

Sorry but didn´t get what you said about opposing wedges on that thread... I´m not a native english speaker nor good at wood work so, if you have the time, show me a draw, picture or anything you find useful to get it !
Thanks again.
Anderson.

 

[djc1026]

Are you guys absolutely sure this design will work with a 72" 150 gallon and no middle upright support? Like I said, I'm just a little nervous about that being my first build and I'm not an engineer

Dave

 

[slandis3]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10644948#post10644948 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by djc1026
Are you guys absolutely sure this design will work with a 72" 150 gallon and no middle upright support? Like I said, I'm just a little nervous about that being my first build and I'm not an engineer

Dave

You'll be fine with this. Heres a pic of a stand for a friends 150 we built a while ago. Its holding up fine.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p100/sarah25_04/DSCN1365.jpg~original" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

 

[aomont]

Is this what you mean when you talk about opposing wedges RE ?

Anderson.

 

[Charlutz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10623390#post10623390 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Phisher
One other thing I would mention from experience, my last design did not originally have a "top" of plywood like many have mentioned being unnecessary. I found resting the tank directly on the 2x4s a bad idea because of the less than straight nature of the boards, lots of high/low spots. I'm sure a planner or other tool could correct this but for those of use without access, I found shims, a sander, and 3/4" plywood a lot easier to get a good, level surface out of.

All wood has a "beam." That is, it is curved to a peak in the middle, some pieces moreso than others. When you select your 2x4's, sight down them longways like you are looking down a gun barrel. You will see that there will be an arch in the middle. Find the 2x4's with the least amount of arch. They don't all have to be perfect as you are going to cut a number of them in half to make your legs. But when you are looking for the pieces that will serve as the long rails under the tank, find the ones with the least amount of arch. When you go to build, orient the beam so that it peaks in the middle rather than dips. The weight of the tank will bring it into square. At least, that's what I was taught by the contractor who helped me with my first stand. It also helps to mark the direction of the peak with a pencil by drawing an arrow on the 2x4 so you don't have to keep looking at while building.

 

[laud]

"laud,
Glad I could help. Very nice. Keep me posted, attach a link to a build thread when you get that far."

I wasn't planning on posting a DIY thread since I am tagging along marino420td's thread and basically copying his stuff, who I think got from someone else. lol

Here is a pic of the progress so far..