DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter RocketEngineer
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I guess so David ! I´m thinking on doing quite the same with the help of many many other from this forum ! 
See here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1193998
Anderson.
See here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1193998
Anderson.
saltwaterfishlover
Active member
thanks Rocket... sounds like a plan
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
aomont,
Thats exactly right.
djc1026,
I can understand your reluctance, but consider how strong a tree is just supporting its own weight.
slandis3, thanks for the stand pic.
laud, good progress. Post some pics when you're all finished.
DaveCF,
This was a design I came up with for another member. Depending on what you wish to go on each level will determine what size to make each level. If only two tanks are going to be used, the bottom frame can be removed and the legs set directly on the floor.
saltwaterfishlover, your welcome.
Thats exactly right.
djc1026,
I can understand your reluctance, but consider how strong a tree is just supporting its own weight.
slandis3, thanks for the stand pic.
laud, good progress. Post some pics when you're all finished.
DaveCF,
This was a design I came up with for another member. Depending on what you wish to go on each level will determine what size to make each level. If only two tanks are going to be used, the bottom frame can be removed and the legs set directly on the floor.
saltwaterfishlover, your welcome.
Great thread. question though? has anyone tried to put screw in type leveling feet in their stand you know, something similar to the type of feet on the bottom of a desk? this would prevent the use of wood wedges to level a stand on a unlevel floor (which is the case in my floor about 1/4" or so).
Mykayel
New member
I've used them before for a 55g and had them under the corners and the middle. The biggest concern I'd have with them though is with much bigger of a tank you might have to worry about making a perminent indentations in your floor. Lets say you have an 800 lb tank with most of the weight coming down on the corners, lets say all of it coming down on the corners; with each of feet taking 200 lbs and each foot only having an area less about 1/2 square inch or so, that's 400 psi your putting on your floor, which is enogh that'd I'd be concerned about that on a hard wood floor getting an indentation from the weight, especially if they were installed slightly crooked and then concentrating the load at the side of one of the feet therefore increasing the psi on it. Now you could easily put a shim of wood under each foot to distribute the load better.
Man, I aggree with djc1026. This is scaring ! :lol:
Anyway, I have made a few modifications after what you said and after seeing the last design.
As I´m using every footprint available and changed the screw strip to the outside, I went with one uprigth on the corners to the side and none on the front, like the last drawing so I could reduce inside length.
Here is what I came with:
Front view
Top view
Just to remember, 3 20 gallon per rack (3 racks) per stand and sumps on the bottom.
Can I use 2x4 in everything ?
Thanks everybody.
Anderson.
Anyway, I have made a few modifications after what you said and after seeing the last design.
As I´m using every footprint available and changed the screw strip to the outside, I went with one uprigth on the corners to the side and none on the front, like the last drawing so I could reduce inside length.
Here is what I came with:
Front view
Top view
Just to remember, 3 20 gallon per rack (3 racks) per stand and sumps on the bottom.
Can I use 2x4 in everything ?
Thanks everybody.
Anderson.
Phisher
Wut?
Here are a couple shots of mine under construction. Its for a 36x18x17 acrylic octopus tank I'm putting together.
Start
Vertical bracing
Not planning a center upright so here is what I did to keep it from bowing.
I'll likely add some more vertical supports to hinge my doors on, but here is the basic shape.
Start
Vertical bracing
Not planning a center upright so here is what I did to keep it from bowing.
I'll likely add some more vertical supports to hinge my doors on, but here is the basic shape.
Last edited by a moderator:
Siffy
New member
Does the added upper horizontal support rest its load on anything or is it just screwed into place? I'm wondering if it's even necessary... I just picked up a 40B a few hours ago since PetCo has them on sale, so I may build that exact stand frame shortly.
RE, when are you going to produce a canopy template and calculator?
RE, when are you going to produce a canopy template and calculator?
mountaindew
New member
Wow, you guys/girls build some heavy duty stands!
rocket engineer's designs a super heavy duty stand to say the least using even the cheapest lumber like hemp fir and doug fir would make them even stronger. Myself, I use plywood and standard cabinet construction techniques i.e. datos, splines and glue. but as stated above it takes more tools.
rocket engineer's designs a super heavy duty stand to say the least using even the cheapest lumber like hemp fir and doug fir would make them even stronger. Myself, I use plywood and standard cabinet construction techniques i.e. datos, splines and glue. but as stated above it takes more tools.
Speedway_06
New member
quick question about the actual measurements of the tank itself. Actual tank measurements with the black moulding at the bottom will actually be 1/2" longer in length and width from what I am told. For example in a 75-90 gal. those measurements would be 48 1/2" by 18 1/2". I am new to this so when I build this stand I want to make sure I don't have to trash it and build another. Is everyone taking this into account or are you removing the moulding? Thx
DwightKeenan
Member
I measured and included the molding. I wouldn't assume that all tanks are the same, I could be wrong though.
I am building mine right now and I am actually only 1/4" more than the tank glass itself.
I am building mine right now and I am actually only 1/4" more than the tank glass itself.
dazed
New member
very nice thread glad i found this as i have a new tank build going on; okay so here it goes tank dimensions are 60"L. x 18"D. x 20"H. (90g). Acrylic.
So from the reading and picture at the beginning of this thread I would be using 2x6 for the top box construction correct??
If so can i use 2x4 for the bottom one and for the purple pieces?
The tank is acrylic so i will be adding a plywood top as well either 1/2" or 3/4"
Is the use of foam board still needed for the bottom??
So from the reading and picture at the beginning of this thread I would be using 2x6 for the top box construction correct??
If so can i use 2x4 for the bottom one and for the purple pieces?
The tank is acrylic so i will be adding a plywood top as well either 1/2" or 3/4"
Is the use of foam board still needed for the bottom??
Speedway_06
New member
Dwight,
is yours a 1/4" on each side for a total of 1/2" or just and addition 1/4"
Siffy
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10667041#post10667041 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aomont
Please do not forget about me !
Is that design over there ok without the uprights in front ?
2x4 in everything would be ok ?
Thanks again, this thread is awesome and I´m learning a lot.
Anderson.
If you're talking about your last set of pictures. Looks good, but you'd want to use 2x6's for the horizontal members likely. Your 147cm comes out to ~58". You may get away with 2x4's just fine. I'm not really sure what size tanks you're planning to put there. You're planning 3 racks to hold 3 levels of 20L tanks and 2 sumps on the bottom level per rack? And 2 tanks per level per rack? I don't think that's what you've said, but that's what your numbers correlate since a 20L is 30". How many tanks total are you setting up? 18 displays and 6 sumps? Is this right?
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