DIY'ing a controller for the Maxspect Gyre

dartier

New member
I am posting this *before* I go down this path in the hopes that other (informed) DIY people can help fine tune my conclusions. I am more of a digital guy, so you old farts that are analog, please correct my limited analog knowledge.

I just recently bought the Gyre and love the flow, but not having the pump controlled by my controller is a really bummer. When you get used to your pumps slowing at night, shutting off at feeding time, or running in a preset pattern, going back to a manual controller just sucks.

I know they are coming out with a Apex compatible controller, but since I use 5V PWM in my DIY system, I would need to build an interface just to be able to use the Apex module when it is available.

This got me to thinking about how the Gyre is operating, and more importantly, how could I replace the current controller with something that I can interface directly to.

I am pretty sure I have figured out it uses a Brushless DC Motor(BLDC). I measured the resistance between the 3 pins of the cable and found that any 2 pins are 4.7 ohms, and if I short 2 pins and measure with the 3rd pin, this is 3.6 ohms. This would mean the coils are 2.35 ohms each and wired in a Wye configuration (as opposed to Delta). Everything appears to line up with it being a Brushless DC Motor.

After googling around a bit and looking at the various Arduino based DIY projects to control BLDC motors, I remembered that I had seen lots of Brushless Electronic Speed Controllers on eBay intended for the hobby RC field. Hmm, and these take a 5V PWM servo input, exactly what I have in my controller. If they would work, they would fit my requirements exactly.

So here is my plan, I am going to try to use a RC ESC to interface the Gyre to my controller. Depending on the model of ESC, they offer both forward and reverse rotation and run sensorless (just what we need for the Gyre). I expect I will have to run at a lower voltage than what the Gyre appears to use currently (24V) as the ESC's are all targeted at voltage ranges provided by battery packs (about 12V). The occasional ESC description on eBay lists the actual voltage range that it supports, but most just list the size of LiPro and/or NiMH cells it supports. I am thinking I might be able to get away with 18V (the highest rated ESC I found listed 22V as its limit).

There is also the question about limiting the current through the coils of the Gyre. All the ESC's support much higher current limits than I expect to need. 20A is the smallest common ones, with a few 10A ones as well.

The hobby ESC's are also normally paired with the outrunner motors that spin FAST (like 210K RPM). Have to see if the onboard microcontroller in them is able to adapt to do low speed control as well. Many of the ESC's are programmable, so you can tailor it to your specific need, I am just not sure if it will be adaptable enough to operate the Gyre.

I have not ordered anything yet, I thought I would bounce this off you guys first before I take the leap. Any feedback from guys with electronic experience, especially RC knowledge would be appreciated.

Dennis
 
With lipo nominal voltage being 4.2V, you would be looking for a 6S esc to handle 24V.

Thanks Gorgok. That was useful info. I was able to locate a 20A unit on eBay that supports 6S (25.5V), but I will have to forgo reverse as it is a plane/heli model. Oh well, I can live without reverse.

Now I just need to source the proper size of 3 pin waterproof cable. The connector is smaller than the ones Jebao uses, but larger than the ones I have on the shelf (that I ordered for when trying to find a match for a Jebao). Is there a standardized way of measuring these connectors? The pictures on eBay are notoriously inaccurate.

Dennis
 
I would just browse through circular DIN listings on mouser or digikey, not sure if there is really a standard with them. Even among the same model with different pin count the spacing between them changes, as well as the diameter where they land. If there was a brand mark on the connector it would probably help the most, though they may have their own branding...
 
Yes, there is a brand on the connector, YCZX. I even found some on eBay that have that same brand name on them. I may just take a shot and order what looks close (based on image). They are only a few bucks anyway, and a few weeks of waiting.

When I was faced with the same dilemma for the Jebao's, I simply hacked the cable of the factory controller. I was a lot more confident that my plans would work for those though. With the Gyre I plan on keeping the controller intact just incase. :)

Dennis
 
I have went ahead and ordered some connectors on eBay. I found a seller (eng_hui) that seemed to show the actual connectors that they were selling. By holding the Gyre connector inline with the image on the monitor I was able to match up the outline, and the seller had an image of the nut against a ruler, so the diameter should be right as well. Fingers crossed. He only sells them in fours though, so I will have some spares.

I also went ahead and ordered 2 different ESC's. Both support 6S, and either run the SimonK firmware, or should be capable of running it. If these things are not well suited out of the box, I am hoping that I can tweak the source of the SimonK code to be more Gyre suited.

Now I just have to wait for them to arrive from China. :(

Dennis
 
Good thing with modern, high power, escs is they almost always have 'safe start' or similar ramping built in. The gearboxes of helis would never survive a motor going from nothing to full blast at the flip of a switch. I can imagine that will work well with the gyre's squirrel cage. It might be able to go from deadstop to full blast, but it would probably cavitate... do that enough i would expect something to break.

Of course you can just control the ramp yourself too, but it is nice that there is a backup plan in the esc itself.
 
Well is this not an interesting DIY. I will tag along as well, as i have both the Apex and the Gyre.
 
any progress made on this?

If by progress you mean do I have the parts, then yes, lots of progress ... unfortunately I have not done anything with them yet.

... if indeed the motor is a brushless type, why not use an RC ESC ? There are plenty outside capable to deal with voltage from 1S to 12S (12x4.2V). All these ESC are PWM controlled and Arduino can do very good job at. The only problem that I see with an RC ESC is sense change. Usually this is achieved switching two wires on the motor.
see this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__455__182__Speed_Controllers-80_to_119_Amp.html

Yup, that is the conclusion I came to originally (and what this thread is about). I have a couple of 12S heli ESCs in my pile of parts to be tested.

Dennis
 
would love someone to try something here ... i do not have the expertise to DIY without a step by step.
 
Great Idea. I'd love to be able to use more modes on the Gyre (Automatically)

Tagging along. If someone get's it working that would be cool.

Wouldn't it be easier to get on the digital side to control the controller, which controls the pump. (Well, maybe not easier).

IE (Digitally interface into the Gyre Controller, to access the forward and reverse power control), then you could do anything.

Basically Put the controller into Continous mode. Then replace the manual dial with a digitally controlled dial that you control via a computer interface, or some interface out of the apex (computer would be easier, since apex doesn't really have any Digital Out, so Analog to Digital interface would have to be added.).

A simple Raspberry Pi, or Arduino mini card computer could be the controller with a web interface, or just simples programmed schedules and modes.

Key is to figure out how to tap into the Gyre Controller.

Alternatively, if replacing the dial is too difficult to reverse engineer, why not replace the MODE button, with a relay switch.
The button must just be a simple contact switch.

You could setup 3 modes the Continuous, Pulse, and Reverse Gyre (with your favourite settings) and use the apex Power control to switch a relay (just like pushing the button). To flip between the modes during the day, week...etc

Just thinking about other possibilities.

(However I just examined the controller panel. Looks pretty sealed. No visible screws. Bet the encased the inside Electronics with Epoxy or something, to prevent Modding.).

SOrry for straying off the Analog topic. I'm a digital guy too.
 
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I actually got my idea working. The one I suggested two posts above.

Gyre Controller (MOD) for Remote Automated Pump Control (Via ARDUINO/Relay Interface)

Not as flexible and powerful as full motor control suggest in this thread.

But this Gyre Controller MOD (Workaround) works for me.

Been running my Gyre custom cycles for a while. (including Daymodes, and Night modes, Full Power Pulse modes....synchronized with Apex controlling other pumps during Gyre Feed mode).

Has actually improved my SPS health since I'm running Gyre 24/7 (Which I couldn't before in Single Mode since I couldn't use Full Power setup continuously).
 
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