Frustrated with heater control!

kwl1763

Premium Member
I have had my aquacontroller 3 for about a year now (had a 2 for a few years before that)

Rarely do I need heaters in my system but this winter has several cold spells and it has caused me issues that I just can't figure out!

I have the Jager heaters pluged into B1 (see code below) but for whatever reason they seem to stay on well above the 78.5 mark. Sometimes they won't come on when it's under 78 but staying on is much more the problem.

I can look in aquanotes and it will have the status as off and I can go in there and they are still on. If I manually flip back on and then off and then to auto and all seems OK. I just have no idea what to do hear. I have replaced the X-10 module twice just to make sure it wasn't that.

Any ideas? Everything else works perfectly fine. My program follows below.

LT1$-A1
LT2$-A2
LT3$-A3
LT4$-A4
LT5$-A5
HTR&-B1
CHL&-B2
TOP#-C1
OZN#-C2
CO2#-C3


If Time > 14:00 Then LT2 ON
If Time > 00:00 Then LT2 OFF
If Time > 15:00 Then LT1 ON
If Time > 23:00 Then LT1 OFF
If Time > 14:30 Then LT4 ON
If Time > 00:30 Then LT4 OFF
If Time > 15:15 Then LT3 ON
If Time > 23:15 Then LT3 OFF
If Time > 15:30 Then LT5 ON
If Time > 23:30 Then LT5 OFF
If Temp > 80.0 Then CHL ON
If Temp < 79.0 Then CHL OFF
If Temp < 78.0 Then HTR ON
If Temp > 78.5 Then HTR OFF
If Time > 00:00 Then OZN OFF
If ORP < 450 Then OZN ON
Max Change 015 M Then OZN OFF
If Time > 00:00 Then CO2 OFF
If pH > 07.80 Then CO2 ON
Max Change 015 M Then CO2 OFF
If Temp > 82.5 Then LT3 OFF
If Temp > 83.0 Then LT1 OFF
If Temp > 83.0 Then LT5 OFF
If Temp > 83.5 Then LT2 OFF
If Temp > 83.5 Then LT4 OFF
If Time > 00:00 Then TOP ON
If Power 000 Then LT1 OFF
Max Change 010 M Then LT1 ON
If Power 000 Then LT2 OFF
Max Change 012 M Then LT2 ON
If Power 000 Then LT3 OFF
Max Change 016 M Then LT3 ON
If Power 000 Then LT4 OFF
Max Change 014 M Then LT4 ON
If Power 000 Then LT5 OFF
Max Change 018 M Then LT5 ON
 
Not that it is what is causing the problem, but I would give more of a spread between your heater and your chiller settings. You might try using a different channel in case your getting interference on the X10s. Personally, I would get rid of the X10s infavor of a DC4 or DC8.
 
I agree with attempting to hard plug into a DC4, DC4HD, or DC8. Do you have one available? According to the code, once you hit 78.6, it should shut off. What's "well above"? Personally, I've found the Jager heaters to be absolute garbage. I started the hobby with 4x150w, and all were dead in 6 months or the degrees were 4-8 off. In your case, ensure that the dial is set decently high to ensure when the AC3 turn is on, the Jagar itself is turning on. I had one I had to set to 72, and one I had to set in the 80's to get it to turn on at 78.
 
I agree with laverda, X10 can be difficult to manage sometimes. How may watts is your heater? Over 300w, i believe you need the appliance module. Also if your x10 module is located on a different circuit operating out of phase with the controller you can get intermittent results. There is a "bridge" that you can buy that will take care of the out of phase problem.
I don't think your problem is an Aquacontroller related issue (hardware or software).
You might want to try either a Ethernet over power (EoP) or a wireless router in bridge mode if you have wifi at your house. The wireless router will be the cheapest route if you already have wifi. If not, the EoP equipment will set you back about $150 or so.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11649615#post11649615 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RokleM
I had one I had to set to 72, and one I had to set in the 80's to get it to turn on at 78.
Good point. I take my temp probe out of the water causing the AC to trigger the heater. I then adjust the Jager dial until it terns on, regardless of what it says. I then test it, by placing the temp probe back in the water and verify that the heater triggers an off statement to the AC. Then i pull the temp probe out of the water to see when the heater turns on.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11649159#post11649159 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by laverda
Not that it is what is causing the problem, but I would give more of a spread between your heater and your chiller settings. You might try using a different channel in case your getting interference on the X10s. Personally, I would get rid of the X10s infavor of a DC4 or DC8.

If you pay for it then I will no problems! I would need at least 2 DC8s

A little more info. All on the same dedicated circuit. I am using appliance modules. For everything actually. And yes I have the heaters themselves set on like 90.

I actually have 3 150W Jagers (on the same plug) on there. That's how I know it's not just one gone haywire. This is way frustrating. I may just attempt to find a DC4 used and try that.
 
Here are some tips on debugging the problem which is likely an X10 issue:

- Make sure that the control interface is plugged into the AquaController with a 4 conductor telephone cord. The light should blink off when commands are sent out, but otherwise will be on.
- Make sure that the control modules x10 addresses match the configuration of the AquaController. The default AquaController program is listed in the back of the manual.
- The control interface and control modules should plug into the same circuit. If not, you may need to install a signal bridge.
- Do no use power strips with active surge suppression as they can attenuate the x10 signal. Use inexpensive powerstrips.
- With the AquaController try to turn on and off the control modules. Go to Control & Status -> Manual Control. Select the device you are having trouble with and repeatedly turn it on and off. Note that commands are only sent out when you press the select button.
- If you have added any new equipment to your tank, turn it off, and then repeat the Manual control test.
- Try switching to an unused X10 address on the control module and in the AquaController’s configuration.
- Try swapping the control module with a known good one and see if the problem persists.
- Try power cycling the AquaController. Remove the 9V battery and unplug the AC adapter at the same time.
- If nothing is working try shutting off all appliances around your tank, and then try the manual on/off test. If something is causing X10 interference around your tank, it is likely an electronic ballast. Once the interfering device is found use an X10 noies filter (part # NF5) to isolated from the power in your house.
- To avoid X10 noise problems, use the DC4, DC4HD, DC8 boxes instead. They have hardwired control and are immune to powerline noise.

Curt
 
Ok so I switched the heater to address H8 which is extremely far away from anything else and that seems (It's only been 2 days) so far to have worked. It may have just been interference with others Bs or 1s. That's what I'm hoping at least!
 
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