Good PH... why?

C

cbbram

New member
I started a new tank... 125 gal future reef tank with 100 lbs of BRS Pukani dry rock and crushed coral substrate. Tank has been running for 6 weeks and it cycled around the 4 week mark. I'm using Red Sea Coral Pro salt. My question is are all of these factors the reason why my PH has been at 8.2 consistantly???

My previous tank was a 46 gal reef tank with live sand, live rock and Instant Ocean salt and I ALWAYS had to add a ph buffer. Just curious???
 
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I am not an expert, but I have been led to believe that the pH is a direct reflection of fresh air in your home. (Or whereever you are keeping your tank)

Cheese
 
Ph is related to the CO2 in the water which comes from the surrounding air and/or biological activity in the tank. Alkalinity plays a role too as it buffers ph swings.
 
Thank you for your posts. So do you think I should keep some reef buffer on hand just in case pH levels gets too low or do you think a 10% weekly water change will keep things in check???
 
Checking and maintaining your alk is better way to maintain the pH in a reef tank, as I understand it. pH can fluctuate depending on the time of day, the lighting period, the amount of respiration by your anmals and algae, etc, etc. Alk, on the other hand, stays stable thought the day usually, and changes only with actual consumption. If you keep your alk between the accepted levels 0f 7-11 dKH, your pH should stay within accepted levels as well. Just my .02c, but I'm sure Bertoni or Randy or TMZ or the other chemistry gurus in this part of the forum can correct me if I am wrong :D.

As to why exactly your 125 is stable at pH of 8.2 while your 46 gal goes down, maybe it's because the tank is still new and there is nothing creating acidic stuff? Or maybe your 125 has better aeration?
 
Sounds like the old tank was running low in alk and you were supplementing it with the buffer.

In this new tank, as things start to grow there will be some consumption of alk and it will need to be supplemented. As already stated, use an alk supplement not a "buffer". You will also want to be supplementing Calcium as it's used in a balanced rate along with the alk. Also Magnesium will likely need occasinal (but much less often) supplementing.
 
I want to do this 125 gal the right way. Which is why i'm trying to do as much research as possible. I'm really surprised my 46 gal has done as well as it has with all the mistakes i've made. But i've only had LPS, softies as well as fish. The new 125 gal does have alot of flow with a great LifeReef filtration system w/ 24 gal refugium. I'm gonna give SPS a try with this set-up.
 
cbbram said:
Thank you for your posts. So do you think I should keep some reef buffer on hand just in case pH levels gets too low or do you think a 10% weekly water change will keep things in check???
Click to expand...


No, using buffers to control ph is a bad strategy.imo. While alk and ph are related bouncing alk to keep a selected ph value just ends up raisng the alk over a short period of time since more CO2 equilibrates into the tank from the surrounding air. Alk should be maintained in the 7 to 11 dkh range independent of ph concerns. In a tank with in range alk ,ph variations are related to CO2.
 
I test it at lest 1x pr week but my system is is pretty stable. Starting out, I'd test it every other day for a week or two until I had a handle on cosumption rates. It can drop quickly.
 
Adding to ^

As your tank settles in it will develop a steady consumption rate of Ca and alk. Test frequently until you work out how much of each you need to dose every day or every other day to keep the levels steady. Once you get that dosing worked out, then you can back off on testing to more like weekly or even every other week, making occasional adjustments to the dosing as the tank grows and consumes more and more over time.

Ideally for this dosing you should use a 2 part additive, kalkwater drip, or calcium reactor. The cheapest route is probably to get a DIY 2 part kit from bulkreefsupply. Next cheapest option is to buy regular 2 part additive such as b-ionic or any number of others.

This calculator will help you figure out your dosing once you start to see a steady consumption;
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html
 
You are welcome. Btw, calcium is used much more slowly than alk so I genrally test it once every 2 to 4 weeks.Magnesium moves very slowly so every month or two is usually adequate.
 
I am certainly no chemistry expert, and I bow to the gurus here, but if I may, I want to addd my little experience.

cbbram, your tank is still relaively new, with not much livestock to consume alk/calcium/mag. I kept my tank on water changes alone using IORC salt for over a year. With salinity at 1.026, alk remained stablle at 8-10dkH, and calcium and mag were rock steady at 420 and 1350. During that year I started adding more stonies. SPS, LPs, NPS, together with the usual softies. About the 14 month mark, I noticed my alk started to drop. Once it started to drop, it REALLY dropped quickly. When I noticed the drop, I tested the big three, alk/cal/mag almost daily until I figured the consumption rate. Now I test only once a month, and things have been stable. I am dosing kalkwasser full dose via ATO, plus 2 part via a doser.

My point is that water changes with quality salt at a salinity of 1.026 may be good enough to keep your alk/cal/mag (and consequently your pH), within acceptable parameters for a long time, months to over a year. No need to go crazy with testing frequency until you notice a downward trend.
 
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Thanks... You know that really makes alot of sense. I've learned so much from RC. I've actually been embarrassed by suggesting things to fellow RC members from things i've been told by my LFS. I dont even go there anymore. I get all my info from RC and order online. It's a little more expensive but I feel alot better about the quality...
 
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