got my stuff
- Thread starter CKreef
- Start date
Pickupman66
New member
I built my canopy myself. used pine and found out a few things. make sure you seal it REALLY WELL before applying heat and moisture to it. I used pressure treated screws on mine ot avoid corrosion. I think I have some pics in my portfolio but if not, I can send you some. I had to do some extra reinforcement for mine as I basically designed it to open about 75% on the top. I then outfitted it with 440wt vho.
Pickupman66
New member
polyurethane sealer. Same stuff you woudl use for a nice piece of wood Furniture. I stained the wood to the desired color and then applied 3 or 4 coats of the poly. applied a bit thick in some areas and have a few runs (my fault), but since sealing it, I dont have any flex in the wood. for the top, I used a 16" pine cabinet board that was basically several 2x1" pieces pressed and then glued together and a 4" pine board with a piano hinge in between for the top. when I placed on the tank naked (no stain or sealant), it would flex and seperate about 1/2" on one side. I braced it with 4 pieces of aluminum angle and 1x2 pine that ran from front to back and were spaced evenly left to right, but still had a bit of warping. just before I got my lights, I stained and sealed it and after that it flattened out, and you can barely see any warp, and it fits flush around the entire rim. it flexed so much before it started pulling some of the 1.5" screws out.
For my 75, which is 48x18x18, I used 16x1 pine board on the sides, and then the top described above using part of the scraps from the sides to do the non moveable portion of the sides. I used 8" pieces of 1x2" pine in the corners for support and that is all the lid uses to sit on the tank top. I then cut out some rectangular doors in the front and cut most of the back board out for all my plumbing and cooling fans.
when i put my lights in, I had spaced the alum braces just right so that the endcaps mounted to the bottom of hte outside braces and was able to route my wires down and out to keep them neat.
For my 75, which is 48x18x18, I used 16x1 pine board on the sides, and then the top described above using part of the scraps from the sides to do the non moveable portion of the sides. I used 8" pieces of 1x2" pine in the corners for support and that is all the lid uses to sit on the tank top. I then cut out some rectangular doors in the front and cut most of the back board out for all my plumbing and cooling fans.
when i put my lights in, I had spaced the alum braces just right so that the endcaps mounted to the bottom of hte outside braces and was able to route my wires down and out to keep them neat.
Pickupman66
New member
polyurethane sealer. Same stuff you woudl use for a nice piece of wood Furniture. I stained the wood to the desired color and then applied 3 or 4 coats of the poly. applied a bit thick in some areas and have a few runs (my fault), but since sealing it, I dont have any flex in the wood. for the top, I used a 16" pine cabinet board that was basically several 2x1" pieces pressed and then glued together and a 4" pine board with a piano hinge in between for the top. the wider piece opens fully. when I placed on the tank naked (no stain or sealant), it would flex and seperate about 1/2" on one side. I braced it with 4 pieces of aluminum angle and 1x2 pine that ran from front to back and were spaced evenly left to right, but still had a bit of warping. just before I got my lights, I stained and sealed it and after that it flattened out, and you can barely see any warp, and it fits flush around the entire rim. it flexed so much before it started pulling some of the 1.5" screws out.
For my 75, which is 48x18x18, I used 16x1 pine board on the sides, and then the top described above using part of the scraps from the sides to do the non moveable portion of the top. I used 8" pieces of 1x2" pine in the corners for support and that is all the lid uses to sit on the tank top. I then cut out some rectangular openings in the front and then some larger pieces for doors and cut most of the back board out for all my plumbing and cooling fans.
when i put my lights in, I had spaced the alum braces just right so that the endcaps mounted to the bottom of hte outside braces and was able to route my wires down and out to keep them neat.
For my 75, which is 48x18x18, I used 16x1 pine board on the sides, and then the top described above using part of the scraps from the sides to do the non moveable portion of the top. I used 8" pieces of 1x2" pine in the corners for support and that is all the lid uses to sit on the tank top. I then cut out some rectangular openings in the front and then some larger pieces for doors and cut most of the back board out for all my plumbing and cooling fans.
when i put my lights in, I had spaced the alum braces just right so that the endcaps mounted to the bottom of hte outside braces and was able to route my wires down and out to keep them neat.
Pickupman66
New member
OK, I edited that post, but it just reprinted it with the revsions... sorry.
Pickupman66
New member
Mike. I used a circular saw for all my cuts. the hardest part was cutting hte holes for doors and the back. cutting the back board to width for the top was also hard as I had to make it extremely straight. I do know you can rent them cheap at depot, but you are welcome to use the circular saw, or you can go buy a "saber saw" for about $30. PM me your email and I will email you some pics of the lid
