Growing Gracilaria and Codium?
- Thread starter Mothi
- Start date
I have started growing gracilaria and ulva in a 15 gallon aquarium as tang food. I have not tried codium. I was using a goldfish bowl but it became too crowded.
Right now I have about 2 gallons of 1.020 salt water (I use the same water as I make up for the phyto culture.). I don't think it is critical whether you use 1.020 or 1.025. I add 2ml of Macro Algae Grow from http://www.florida-aqua-farms.com/ (same as I use for the phyto culture) as fertilizer once a week (the amount and frequency would depend upon how much water and how much algae you are growing). The ulva grows better in cooler temp so I don't use a heater. I have an airline bubbling in the center for some current. My tank is on a window sill so it gets natural light (during the winter I may have to supplement the light).
I have been growing the ulva since Easter but only added the gracilaria a couple of weeks ago.
In the goldfish bowl, the air line (minus an airstone) was sufficient to keep the algae moving. In the tank, the algae is not moving. Is algae movement necessary? I'm not sure. I may have to add a circulation pump instead of using the air line.
Right now, there is about 2 inches of water which keeps the algae covered but not much room for movement. With time, I may have to increase the amount of water to allow room for the algae tumble.
I plan on starting to test for nitrites or maybe phosphates to see if testing will tell me when the fertilizer is used up.
I have no substrate and no filter in this tank.
As you can tell, this is a trial and error approach. So far the ulva has grown well and I'm hoping the gracilaria takes off as well.
Vickie
Right now I have about 2 gallons of 1.020 salt water (I use the same water as I make up for the phyto culture.). I don't think it is critical whether you use 1.020 or 1.025. I add 2ml of Macro Algae Grow from http://www.florida-aqua-farms.com/ (same as I use for the phyto culture) as fertilizer once a week (the amount and frequency would depend upon how much water and how much algae you are growing). The ulva grows better in cooler temp so I don't use a heater. I have an airline bubbling in the center for some current. My tank is on a window sill so it gets natural light (during the winter I may have to supplement the light).
I have been growing the ulva since Easter but only added the gracilaria a couple of weeks ago.
In the goldfish bowl, the air line (minus an airstone) was sufficient to keep the algae moving. In the tank, the algae is not moving. Is algae movement necessary? I'm not sure. I may have to add a circulation pump instead of using the air line.
Right now, there is about 2 inches of water which keeps the algae covered but not much room for movement. With time, I may have to increase the amount of water to allow room for the algae tumble.
I plan on starting to test for nitrites or maybe phosphates to see if testing will tell me when the fertilizer is used up.
I have no substrate and no filter in this tank.
As you can tell, this is a trial and error approach. So far the ulva has grown well and I'm hoping the gracilaria takes off as well.
Vickie
mellen
Premium Member
SeaChem Reef Plus at half dose if you have primarily macros with few or no corals (I think Mothi is concerned about macros for a Sea Horse tank without corals). Full dose at half frequency if you have substantial corals. Folks who perform regular small water changes once a week are replenishing trace elements needed by macros and corals, and generally can avoid the risks of using additives; it is easy to over-accumulate trace elements to the point of unhealthy levels since there are no accurate hobbyist type tests to cover all the different elements included in many additive mixes. The Macro Algae Grow product mentioned above is excellent. Safest bet for macro only/tang food culture. Adding some small bits of fish food to macro culture tank for nitrogenous compounds spurs growth too - macros mostly "prefer" ammonia over nitrates. Tanks with heavy animal loads feed refugium and display macros very well, given they have enough light and somewhat reduced skimming. Can place skimmer pump on a timer for lights-out only if you have lots of macro, macro will absorb waste compounds during lights on when active, or just shut off skimmer when feeding plankton foods and for an hour or so after; keeps from wasting plankton. Even slow sump circulation or a bubbler for free standing macro culture works fine for most species.
Beenalongtime79
New member
Any other tips? Like what type of lighting (specifically kelvin bulb) to use... T5, MH, PC?
Beenalongtime79
New member
Nobody knows how to grow the stuff?
tektite
I never finish anyth
I grow a couple types of red gracilaria for nutrient export, selling, and to feed my tangs. I keep it in my fuges under 100W equivalent compact fluorescent light bulbs (daylight, soft white was too yellow for me) in cheap HD work light reflectors - 2 per sump. One sump is about 20 gallons (14" deep), the other about 45 (18" deep). I have a K1 in each sump. Nitrates are usually 10ish, and phosphates barely detectable (with a Hannah checker). The koralia keeps the algae constantly tumbling. I just keep the lights on 24/7, though I've seen that not recommended for gracilaria. Fast growth, at least 1-2" per week. Botryocladia and orange tipped halymenia also grow fast.
Video of the flow rate
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23831049?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0"></iframe>
I'm not an expert, that's just what I've experienced.
Video of the flow rate
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23831049?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0"></iframe>
I'm not an expert, that's just what I've experienced.
Last edited:
Beenalongtime79
New member
Thanks for the info... It is interesting that more of the macro doesn't get sucked into the pump intake!
Keep nitrates highish then. Great!
Keep nitrates highish then. Great!
Beenalongtime79
New member
That algae looks lush!
tektite
I never finish anyth
That algae looks lush!
My tangs think so to
No need for a filter or substrate. Remember to add some phosphates as well as nitrates. If this is a separate tank specifically for growing those macros you don't need to be worried about the nutrient levels affecting coral growth.
Beenalongtime79
New member
tektite, you don't dose anything at all? Also, in one of those pics, it looks like you have a refugium which is a little bit more stationary in terms of plant tumbleage. Does the gracilaria grow alright w/ all that tumbling?
Also, when you say 100W equivalent. Do you mean 100W power usage or a CF that is "equivalent" to 100W. And when you say 2 per sump, that equates to 200W "equivalent" power usage via CF? Sorry to ask you so many questions, I am just trying to make sure it works! Once again, great looking stuff in your fuges! The gracilaria looks awesome!
Thanks!
John
Also, when you say 100W equivalent. Do you mean 100W power usage or a CF that is "equivalent" to 100W. And when you say 2 per sump, that equates to 200W "equivalent" power usage via CF? Sorry to ask you so many questions, I am just trying to make sure it works! Once again, great looking stuff in your fuges! The gracilaria looks awesome!
Thanks!
John
tektite
I never finish anyth
Every once in awhile I dose minute amounts of phosphate, but I do not recommend doing that without a Hanna checker. Its very easy to nuke your corals dosing phosphates! My macros in this tank can take phosphates down ~0.2ppm per day. Other than that, nothing but water changes.
Both refugiums tumble freely. The gracilaria loves the tumbling, grows faster than stationary.
I use the small worklight reflectors from Home Depot:
The compact fluorescent bulbs are equivalent to 100W incandescent. They use, if I remember correctly, 27W. I use the daylight bulbs, the soft white was too yellow for me, though the macros may prefer that.
My sumps are much larger than normal, that's why I use 2 reflectors per sump:
Both refugiums tumble freely. The gracilaria loves the tumbling, grows faster than stationary.
I use the small worklight reflectors from Home Depot:
The compact fluorescent bulbs are equivalent to 100W incandescent. They use, if I remember correctly, 27W. I use the daylight bulbs, the soft white was too yellow for me, though the macros may prefer that.
My sumps are much larger than normal, that's why I use 2 reflectors per sump:
sassyfrassy
New member
Did you say you sell? Do you ship too?
