Having hard time deciding.......Best 10k 150 DE bulb

oct2274

New member
I'm having a hard time deciding what bulbs to get......any pics and experiences with different 150 watt 10K DE halide bulbs would be much appreciated. I will have supplimental lighting for actinic. Longevity of spectrum and price are two concerns :)

TIA,
Chad
 
Try the new 14k from Ushio. It is slightly whiter than the Ushio 10k and brighter. This bulb is nothing like other 14K bulbs on the market since it looks more like a 10k
 
Try the new 14k from Ushio. It is slightly whiter than the Ushio 10k and brighter. This bulb is nothing like other 14K bulbs on the market since it looks more like a 10k
 
I am in the same boat, I can't decide between:
14K Phoenix Bulbs without Actinics
14k Ushio Bulbs with Actinics
10K Reeflux Blubs with Actinics
I currently run 10K Ushio's with Actinics and it is too yellow for me.
(All bulbs are 250 Watt DE)
 
lighting is one thing that i've been thinking about for about two months now and I'm still undecided......just want to do it right the first time
 
I'm having a hard time deciding what bulbs to get......any pics and experiences with different 150 watt 10K DE halide bulbs would be much appreciated. I will have supplimental lighting for actinic. Longevity of spectrum and price are two concerns

Assuming you are running this off a magnetic ballast go with the BLV 10k. There is no other bulb in this particular color spectrum that will come within 10% - 12% of the amount of par the 150 BLV will give out.

I am in the same boat, I can't decide between:
14K Phoenix Bulbs without Actinics
14k Ushio Bulbs with Actinics
10K Reeflux Blubs with Actinics
I currently run 10K Ushio's with Actinics and it is too yellow for me.
(All bulbs are 250 Watt DE)

Again it goes back to being dependent upon the ballast, however if you want something int hat crisp white 10k range and you are going to supplement, then go with the Aqualine's. They give out A LOT of par, and spec out around 8500k. The XM is the only other DE 250 that gives out more par, but it only specs out at 7000k, which is Iwasaki yellow, yuck! ;) If you are wanting something a little more blue then the Phoenix is a tough bulb to beat. The ONLY two DE 250's that give out more par than that lamp are the Aqualines and the XMs, and that is saying a lot considering it would be going against the likes of Ushio 10k, BLV 10k, Giesemann 13k, and so on.
 
Thanks Jeremy, I am running the bulbs in PFO mini pendants with HQI magnetic ballasts. My Ushio bulbs have a K in the 8000's and I find it too yellow. I think ideally I need a bulb in the 11,000-12,000 K range with good par. The phoenix look good but I have only seen them once on a tank where they were not burned in yet. So they were a dim blue colour. Is it true they brighten up and turn more white after burn in? The Ushio 14K is the same as the BLV correct?
 
Your Ushio on that ballast should come out to right at about 10k on the nose, or just barely under. Keep in mind that even a true 14k/15k lamp still really doesn't have any blue to it to the naked eye, just very ice white. I would imagine that new Ushio 14k is going to be pretty darn close to that, kind of like the Iwasaki 14k 175 SE lamps. You might try to find some pics on RC of that bulb burning by itself, as I think the Ushio/BLV 14k will look very similar to it. After that, there really is nothing that will bridge the gap between those and the 14k Phoenix. Having said that, the 14k phoenix is still a par monster considering the blueness of the lamp to the naked eye, and comparing to all other 250 DE's out there.
 
I would go with the Ushio 14K or the Phoenix 14K. The Reeflux 10K is pretty yellow on an hqi ballast. The 12K's on the other hand are pretty white. I'm not sure of the PAR though.
 
Just ordered 4 x 250 DE Phoenix bulbs to replace my 10K Ushios. Should have them Monday. I saw some Phoenix bulbs at the LFS but they hadn't burned in yet so they were still quite blue and dim. They may have been on electronic ballasts as well. I think a true 13K bulb would be perfect for me. Similar to the pictures I have seen on the Iwasaki 14K bulb without actinic supplement. If these Phoenix bulbs don't work out maybe the Ushio 14K or hopefully the new Iwasaki 14K DE 250's will be out next lamp change!
 
I am new to the Reefcentral forums and have a questions about MH lighting that after pouring through this forum - you may have answered. I recently upgraded from an older Hamilton 175W x 2 and 184W of actinic to an Aquamedic 3 bulb MH DE HQI fixture. The fixture is 48" for my 70 gallon reef (48 x 18W x 21"D) and has Aqualine bulbs - 2 x 250Watt DE HQI - 13K (aqualine calls them 10K) and one - 150Watt MH DE HQI 20K in the center (also Aqualine) w/remote magnetic HQI ballasts (Great deal at CustomAquatics) - I thought with the 20K in the center I would not need actinics. The fixture is at least twice as bright as the old Hamilton and the corals (SPS, LPS, Soft, Clams) are showing terrific growth - the only problem is that the Aqualine 10K/13Ks are a bit too yellow for my taste. So I temporarily "jury-rigged" a pair of T-5 actinics to the fixture to give me some more "blue" but it detracts from the beauty of the fixture - the fixture is hung from the ceiling using the Aquamedic ceiling mount kit and the light bulb UV glass is 11 inches from the surface of the water. THE QUESTION - how do I introduce more blue to the tank so that it is more pleasing to the eye - without killing the PAR output that I am getting using the Aqualine bulbs? I thought of purchasing a separate Aquamedic T-5 fixture - either 2 or 4 bulbs since it can be hung from the ceiling and matches the MH fixture - but this may be overkill and look very cluttered above the 18" wide tank - also Xtra heat and electricity I don't need. The obvious choice would be to replace the 2 - 250W bulbs - It appears that you all are recommending the Phoenix 14K 250W DE HQI bulbs over the Reeflux 10Ks and the rest out there?

Please give me your recommendation - highest PAR (like the Aqualine 10/13Ks) but more Blue for replacing the 2-250W- or do I go with an actinic supplement? - The HO T-5 bulb Aquamedic T-5 fixture 2 bulb is only $135.00 -w/Ballast/Bulb the 4 bulb is $214. But again, this may be overkill and just look stupid..

Thanks for your help
Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7029551#post7029551 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nreefer
Just ordered 4 x 250 DE Phoenix bulbs to replace my 10K Ushios. Should have them Monday. I saw some Phoenix bulbs at the LFS but they hadn't burned in yet so they were still quite blue and dim.


I have used both the ushio 10k and the 14k phoenix. I am more in favor of the ushio with actinics.... it gives a very nice white color...as jeremy said.

with my phoenix....for the first 2 months.??(cant remember actually how long break in period) I was very disappointed with how blue they were....they were pretty dim and not really what I was expecting....I was about to get rid of the darn bulb....

...but I gave it a while and it finally broke in...its a very nice white, with a touch of blue. But I still like the ushio better.


I would also think an AB 10k would be similar in color to the phoenix.


.02
Goby
 
Thanks for the quick response, Goby, I promise not to drag this out but some of the older discussions on this subject also mention the Hamilton 14K 250 DEs as a recommended bulb for coral flouresence (which is why I like the bluer bulbs) - has this bulb recommendation been superceded by the Phoenix bulbs without actinics and/or the Ushio w/Actinics

ChrisColt
 
I have never used or seen the hamiltons...so I cant comment on the color....

however, if the AB's are to yellow for you...you definatly dont want Ushio's. IMO, Ushio's are a pure white and AB's are 95%white with just a small hint of blue. but I guess thats in the eye of the beholder...

I would rate the Phoenix similar to the AB...maybe a tad bluer...

If you wanted to know the hardcore details with testing results search for posts by "sanjay" on RC. he does all sorts of testing with lights....

....If you dont feel like doing a search, ask Jeremy, He knows his stuff on lights!:cool:
 
since this was about 150 de, is there anything comparing the iwasaki 20k de 150w? according to their pdf it has 8000 lumens.
 
so i've been looking the bulbs that sanjay has tested to date and so far here is what i'm seeing for the brightest 10k's

Lamp Name.............................................Ballast Name...... Shield PPFD CCT Power Volts Amps Efficiency

XDE 150W 10000K DE 1 ......................Icecap 150W Electronic Y..... 55..8157...175.. 121 1.49 0.3143

Aqualine Buschke 150W 10000K DE 1 ....Icecap 150W Electronic Y..... 54..10756..172..119 1.53 0.3140

Ushio 150W 10000K DE 1 ....................Icecap 150W Electronic Y..... 52..6028... 168.. 120 1.49 0.3095

looks like the XM is the brightest, but i don't hear people talking about this bulb much at all.......is the color bad or bulb has bad life? I constantly hear people talking about the Ushio 150 10k and AB..... Anyone have pics or any additional input on the XM and the other bulbs?
 
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btw....getting the columns to line up with periods in the previous post took me 5 minutes so i expect some good info hahahha..... btw, i wasn't able to find the info on sanjays site that tell what PPFD and CCT mean, so any inside info on that would be good for my noobness too
 
Sorry to have hijacked this thread - as soon as my premium membership kicks in and the search engine works (I hope) - I'll get to the right thread to ask my questions - but since Jeremy is here - Compared to the Aqualine 10K/13K 250W DE in terms of light output - what bulb would you recommend that would give me similar PAR but better Blue for coral flouresence so that I could get away without having to add actinics but maintain coral growth which is great with the Aqualines.? I am hearing Phoenix 14K assuming it is bluer than the aqualines. Is that it or anything else?

Chriscolt
 
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