Help me redo my sump plumbing

ellisz

Premium Member
Hi all,

I am about to rework my basement sump. Here is what I have now:

sump_020106.jpg


I bought a Mak5(PCX100) to replace the mak4 and I want to lower the sump to the floor. I am planning on running 1.5" pipe from the Mak5. I want to spilt off some flow from the pump to feed the frag tank(shown), the fuge(in the sump) and/or a bypass to the sump in case I have too much flow to the display.

I only have a single megaflo so I can't handle a ton of flow. I was thinking of using a 1.5" cross (4 way) to split up the flow. I would use the right side outlet to feed the frag tank and use the left side to feed the fuge or allow a discharge. I will put ball valves on the side outlets to adjust flow if needed. Would this cross fitting work as well or better than than 2 T's?

Thanks
 
Some Ideas for you......
two drains to sump with one return to display.....one drain in constant into overflow chamber, the other splits into overflow as well as a prop tank.
"T" valves were installed to allow me to remove the prop from the system and use as hospital or quarantine.
This return feeds my refuge...which is also "T" to allow it continual flow...Good luck with the plumbing.....

new_plumbing.jpg


I installed a Float switch for gravity fed top-off...

float_switch.jpg
 
Do you have one overflow in the display or 2? Do you have any problems with bubbles in the frag tank if you are using the drain line to supply the frag tank?

My main concern was having too much flow for the overflow. I think I will need to have a bleed off at the least. I think the pump I have can supply more than what the overflow can handle. I don't want to throttle it back.

I like the idea of being able to separate the frag tank if needed. I could probably do that know but might take some work. I have a drilled 10 gal that I want to plumb in as well. The 20L is just too full. I want a bigger one but I might have to make do for now.

Thanks for the ideas!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6923627#post6923627 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ellisz
Do you have one overflow in the display or 2? Do you have any problems with bubbles in the frag tank if you are using the drain line to supply the frag tank?

Thanks for the ideas!

i have one main center overflow in display...rated for 1440gph....i think im pushing about 1500 now! its close, but handling it well.
i did have issues with micro bubbles for a bit, but after a few days of running and everything breaking in, they seem to come and go. ?
i do run filter socks though and that helps, but does not completely eliminate them.

HTH

PS shot of the tank that everything is connected too! :)

9a6a4808.jpg
 
Nice! My overflow is only rated at 650 gph :(

I got the sump tore down and off the stand. I am going to work on the plumbing now.
 
Why not add an addtional overflow? then you have up to 1300gph.
i had about 1200 returning thru my 55g alone! I used two overflows!

Besides you can add this down the road....plumb everything like there is two and put "T" valves, allowing for addtional plumbing ahead of time will allow you have it ready!

Good luck.
 
Adding an overflow at this point would be a bit tough. I am running some good PH's for now and if need be I will set up a CL. When I get the 180 I want I will address the situation again :)

Unfortunately, I need a few more fittings and I am stuck waiting on the Furnace guy to show. :(
 
I got most of my plumbing done but I have not opend the valve to the display yet. The sump and frag tank are pretty cloudy right now. I might have to soon though. My heaters are in the sump.

I will get pics after I clean up my mess :)
 
I have them around the pump connections. I guess I did not get the pump in the pic. I can disconnect the pump pretty easily. My sump bulkhead started leaking after I re-filled it. I had to drain it again the next day :)

I would like to redo some things but it is all working. The weird thing is that I can't just shut a valve off. If I shut one down I need to open another so the tank does not overflow. If I open the right outlet(discharge) on the cross fitting all the way no water goes up. If I change anything there, that is some money lost. 1.5" valves and unions are not cheap. I glued one union together without the collar ... DOH! I guess that is why I am not a plumber :)
 
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