Hoping it will hold after all the money/time...plz help!

Before I do decide on anything I will need to make sure what im doing will work, and I have to come up with some sort of drawing to show this guy what needs to be done. I talked to him about if briefly last night and he said that he thinks with the thick oak plywood he used and the fact the the tank has a rim on the bottom that the weight would be distributed evenly and wouldn't be an issue.

With the rim on a circular tank, the weight will be distributed evenly. However, with just the plywood on top of the stand, the weight is being distributed evenly around the center of the plywood really. The plywood is responsible for bearing the weight without any support other than around the edges. As was mentioned, the plywood(if it holds the weight) will eventually sag and fall through.
 
Here are some more pictures of the stand. Is there a way to add support on the inside of the stand without doing anything else? Can i build a "cage" on the inside using 2 x 4's? As i mentioned before, I have zero experience with building stands but if i can get everyones help on drawing out the support needed to do this i can then show it to my friend and he can then cut the appropriate pieces and build them inside the stand while it is in my room.

Hope this is doable. :sad1:
 

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I would build something like a hexagon out of 2x4's that is the exact size of the rim of the tank. I would then screw and glue that to the underside of the top of the stand. Then, from each pint of that hexagon, I would run vertical 2x4's down to another hexagon of the same size and shape which is supported by the ground. That should provide you with the support you need for that tank. Everything should be glued and screwed, and everything should fit nice a tight.

You need support directly under the rim of the tank that goes straight down and is supported by the floor below it.
 
Ok I will have to see if that would even be possible with the sump and refuge, and other equipment. I will find out tomorow.

Also would that mean that the bottom of the stand would have to sit on the floor or is keeping the shallow plywood base ok?
 
Ok I will have to see if that would even be possible with the sump and refuge, and other equipment. I will find out tomorow.

Also would that mean that the bottom of the stand would have to sit on the floor or is keeping the shallow plywood base ok?

If you use the above solution, you will not have the room for your sump and other equipment.
And yes you Must remove the shallow plywood base
 
I think anyway you slice it, you nee to remove that base. You need vertical supports directly under the tank, no out at the sides.
 
Wow, the more I see, the less sure I am you can make the stand work. For the top you can make the joist idea work. IMO no problem. Obviously I'm not familiar with your skills, and ability so can I say "for sure"?

The biggie I see, and I think what peppie is talking about is the inclusion of a toe kick at the bottom of the stand. It's not that the plywood needs to go though, it's the fact that none of the load is going straight to the floor. Especially bad is that the front corner frame may, or may not have two screws (I suspect it does)carrying the entire load of the front corner to the plywood. This will fail eventually from what the pics show. If the corner post is rabbeted and sits on the plywood its better, but still on the weak side of marginal due to the load bearing path. Further, the plywood sides look like they're simply glued, and screwed to the sides of the plywood bottom. Again screws and glue carrying the entire load.

As it is I'd say don't use it without ditching the toe kick idea and supporting ALL of the load bearing members. That may be as simple as building a new trim board that supports the entire perimeter of the bottom of the stand. That, in addition to the fix I envision for the top and I think you can still make it safe. I'd add a couple supports under the bottom plywood to support the weight of the sump/'fuge too.
 
Wow, seems like this stand is complete garbage from what I'm understanding from everyone...if building the hexagon is indeed the only way along with removing the base or adding further support to that as well then it obviously won't work because I won't have the room for the equipment with the hexagon built. This sucks :(
 
That's part of the reason that these shaped tanks are so tough. If it were me. I would have a stand made that was the exact footprint of the tank. Then I would have made (or make myself) a sump that will fit inside the stand. You may need to pare down the amount of equipment you are running and just run a really simple skimmer/return type sump, but it can be done and does work.
 
Wow, seems like this stand is complete garbage from what I'm understanding from everyone...if building the hexagon is indeed the only way along with removing the base or adding further support to that as well then it obviously won't work because I won't have the room for the equipment with the hexagon built. This sucks :(

It's not complete garbage, just not well planned considering it's purpose.. I believe it can be adapted to make it work. By all means if you want to build a hex cage inside the stand that will work. It will eliminate your equipment space, and all the support concerns, and it will work. Optionally, you bolster the top, either how I suggested or some other method that accomplishes something similar, and keep most of your equipment space.

On the other hand if you want to retain that space, the cantilevered toe kick area, with no support at all beyond a couple screws and some glue supporting two open sides is a major problem. To fix it you may support the plywood sides, eliminating the toe kicks there, and supporting the lone corner post separately, or you may simply support the entire base perimeter.

IMO you need to discuss this with your cabinet guy, showing him exactly what you intend to place on the stand, and how much it weighs. Tell him you're concerned with the plywood bending over time with the constant dead load it will experience, and with that much load being carried by screws alone. Your (sideways) pics look like the shop of a guy that will understand those kinds of issues.
 
What if he got a piece of granite or marble for the top? Then the whole rim of the tank would be supported and the granite would be supported on all 4 corners. As long as all 4 legs can be modified to go all the way to the floor as has been mentioned that should cure the sagging issue with the top. Sacrifice the door that you mentioned you could live without, replacing it with a plywood side and that should solve the racking problem. Wouldn't that work?
 
How about getting someone to fabricate a metal frame that you can use inside of the stand. Can the top be removed?

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the stand as is would likely crumble under the weight of a 200# piece of granite...

I wasn't suggesting that the stand be used as is. I also mentioned modifying the legs/corner and wall in a way that would greatly improve their strength. The granite piece would only weigh 80 pounds at .75 inch.
 
How about getting someone to fabricate a metal frame that you can use inside of the stand. Can the top be removed?

Wish this would work but for me to have a frame built the shape to the tank, or a hexagon and placed in the stand would mean i wont be able to fit my sump and refuge.

What if he got a piece of granite or marble for the top? Then the whole rim of the tank would be supported and the granite would be supported on all 4 corners. As long as all 4 legs can be modified to go all the way to the floor as has been mentioned that should cure the sagging issue with the top. Sacrifice the door that you mentioned you could live without, replacing it with a plywood side and that should solve the racking problem. Wouldn't that work?

This seems like a good idea, but not sure if adding that much weight would make things any easier.

So far, i understand that for sure I need to completely remove the "toe-kick are" so that the stand sits flat onto the floor.

Now I still need a confirmation on what needs to be done inside the stand, I'm aiming for something that wont take so much space that would prevent me from using my sump and refuge. The hexagon idea is a great idea but I wouldn't be able to fit my equipment like i have it...
 
So far, i understand that for sure I need to completely remove the "toe-kick area" so that the stand sits flat onto the floor.

Now I still need a confirmation on what needs to be done inside the stand, I'm aiming for something that wont take so much space that would prevent me from using my sump and refuge. The hexagon idea is a great idea but I wouldn't be able to fit my equipment like i have it...

Yes, get rid of that completely. That's 1 of 2 major weak areas. The second is that leg between the 2 doors. If you can't spare too much room in that area, you could get pieces of 1" square steel tubing and mount them inside that corner, on each side of the existing leg. You could do that on all 4 corners and really strengthen it. Make sure they're the right size so they fit tight between the bottom frame and top frame. I'd still eliminate that second door though and make that side plywood as well.

The idea of the granite top is to support the tank properly while putting the weight on the strong areas of the stand. I know it's a little bit more weight but in reality, 80lbs isn't much at all. Would you think it a big difference if the tank were 75 gallons instead of 65?

Other than that, I'm afraid you're not going to get everything you want. You'll either lose all the space underneath, or you won't get the strength you need.
 
If you go to a quality lumber yard you can get oak in thickness beyound 2". Using a 1 1/2" X 1 1/2 piece on that corner will give you all the strenght you need, privided it goes from the floor to the top. If I wanted to have the two doors like you have now I would use three of them on the visable corners.
 
Alright so, aside from removing the base so that the stand sits flush onto the floor, I would go get oak pieces 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" and cut them so they fit real tight from the bottom plywood floor of the stand to the top piece of plywood, and these pieces would be glued and screwed in?

Also, you mention i should place 3 of them on each corner which would allow me to keep both doors. I just want to be sure what your explaining is what im understanding lol. So i drew up a quick diagram, please confirm that this is what you meant....

One last thing, this method would still require me to get a slab of granite the size of the top sheep of plywood, right?

Thanks again everyone!
 

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Alright so, aside from removing the base so that the stand sits flush onto the floor, I would go get oak pieces 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" and cut them so they fit real tight from the bottom plywood floor of the stand to the top piece of plywood, and these pieces would be glued and screwed in?

Also, you mention i should place 3 of them on each corner which would allow me to keep both doors. I just want to be sure what your explaining is what im understanding lol. So i drew up a quick diagram, please confirm that this is what you meant....

One last thing, this method would still require me to get a slab of granite the size of the top sheet of plywood, right?

Thanks again everyone!

Almost. They would fit underneath the upper frame, not against the plywood. Yes, glued and screwed.

I think(I know you weren't talking to me) with the lonely leg out there, it's going to twist/flex too much even once supported with the additional legs. There's plenty of strength with the extra legs but it's lacking in stability and a slight sideways pressure takes away all the vertical strength.

Yes. That will take the force from the weak center of the plywood and disperse it along the stronger frame area. A nice piece of granite will only compliment your tank anyway. If you're totally against the granite idea, you could implement some supports underneath the top of the stand. Pieces of .75" plywood, cut in 3" strips, going from side to side. Glued and screwed to the top framework, the top surface, and the side walls where they meet. Spaced out 2-3". You're still going to lose that 2nd door though and it sounds like you don't want to. You also still need the additional legs due to the design of your upper framework.

Hopefully you get what I'm saying. I wish I was as crafty with the design programs. I'd draw you something up.
 
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