how to do GFCI install?
- Thread starter apex003
- Start date
atwinparadox2
New member
Probably get that answer from home depot guy if you go buy one, but honestly i think it is the same. Instead of overloading the plug, the ground fault socket is just a fail safe, and a good idea as well!
It is almost the same. There is a line and a load side on the GFCI.
Turn off your breaker and remove the old plug.
How many sets of wires do you have?
If you have only one, then plug that set in the line side. This side is marked.
If you have two sets, then you need to find out what set is your hot leg. You will do this by turning the power back on and testing the wires. One set is hot and the other set feeds your other outlets on the sane circuit.
Once this is done, turn the power off, plug the hot set in the line side and the other set in the load side.
Another way to tell if you are putting the wires on the right side is by the sticker on the plug. The connectors that are not covered by the sticker are you line side. Let me know if you need more detail as to how not to get shocked.
Turn off your breaker and remove the old plug.
How many sets of wires do you have?
If you have only one, then plug that set in the line side. This side is marked.
If you have two sets, then you need to find out what set is your hot leg. You will do this by turning the power back on and testing the wires. One set is hot and the other set feeds your other outlets on the sane circuit.
Once this is done, turn the power off, plug the hot set in the line side and the other set in the load side.
Another way to tell if you are putting the wires on the right side is by the sticker on the plug. The connectors that are not covered by the sticker are you line side. Let me know if you need more detail as to how not to get shocked.
Apex,
The GFCI will wire up exactly like the outlet you are replacing. Black = Hot, White = Neutral, Bare (or green rarely) = Ground.
The GFCI acts exactly like a regular outlet UNTIL there is a ground fault, then it 'pops' and cuts electricity to the outlet.
If you want to be extra sure, you can go buy a polarity checker for a few bucks to verify that the existing outlet is wired correctly.
How to Check Receptacle Polarity and Replace a Receptacle
Chuck
The GFCI will wire up exactly like the outlet you are replacing. Black = Hot, White = Neutral, Bare (or green rarely) = Ground.
The GFCI acts exactly like a regular outlet UNTIL there is a ground fault, then it 'pops' and cuts electricity to the outlet.
If you want to be extra sure, you can go buy a polarity checker for a few bucks to verify that the existing outlet is wired correctly.
How to Check Receptacle Polarity and Replace a Receptacle
Chuck
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Mike31154
New member
It can be as simple as replacing the existing receptacle. The more expensive option is installing a GFCI circuit breaker which can cost up to $100. The up side of that option is that everything connected to that breaker is protected. Downside of that is if the breaker trips, everything on that circuit is disabled.
One GFCI receptacle ($15 or less) might do the trick depending on your total load and provided the remaining outlets are connected downstream of the GFCI. Any receptacles connected downstream of the GFCI will be GFCI protected. The only limit with this option is the number of receptacles allowed on one circuit by your local electrical code (generally about 4 dual receptacles). It's probably a good idea to have some of your load on a separate circuit though, in case one circuit breaker trips, only part of your equipment will be disabled. Always better to split your load between several circuits, lighting/heater one one and circulation devices on another.
A GFCI receptacle is not designed to protect an overload condition, that's the circuit breaker's function. Circuit breakers trip when the rated amperage is exceeded which in most cases is 15 amps. GFCIs detect any fault causing a minute current leakage (milli or micro amps) from the hot wire to ground or neutral and cut power within microseconds if such a condition exists. When a GFCI receptacle trips, the circuit breaker supplying the power to it may still be ON but all circuits connected to and downstream of the GFCI receptacle will be deactivated.
One GFCI receptacle ($15 or less) might do the trick depending on your total load and provided the remaining outlets are connected downstream of the GFCI. Any receptacles connected downstream of the GFCI will be GFCI protected. The only limit with this option is the number of receptacles allowed on one circuit by your local electrical code (generally about 4 dual receptacles). It's probably a good idea to have some of your load on a separate circuit though, in case one circuit breaker trips, only part of your equipment will be disabled. Always better to split your load between several circuits, lighting/heater one one and circulation devices on another.
A GFCI receptacle is not designed to protect an overload condition, that's the circuit breaker's function. Circuit breakers trip when the rated amperage is exceeded which in most cases is 15 amps. GFCIs detect any fault causing a minute current leakage (milli or micro amps) from the hot wire to ground or neutral and cut power within microseconds if such a condition exists. When a GFCI receptacle trips, the circuit breaker supplying the power to it may still be ON but all circuits connected to and downstream of the GFCI receptacle will be deactivated.
+1 for Mike
That is why it is better to have multiple GFCIs for aquariums. Sometimes a GFCI will just trip. If all your plugs are on the same GFCI, they all die. That means your whole tank is off. It is a little trickier to do this properly. You actually have to add a jumper wire in each gang box to bypass the GFCI. That way each GFCI is fed separately. If you have, say, your lights on one, your return pump one one and your other pumps on one. If one trips, you only lose that zone. Not the whole tank.
Your jumper wire would consist of two pigtails about six inches long. Hook them both up to the hot wire. Now you have made two hat wires. Hook one of the new hots to the line side of the GFCI and the other to the wires feeding the next outlet. This separates everything. If the GFCI is not connected properly it will not work. It won't reset.
I'm a licensed journeyman electrician so I apologize if I am confusing you.
That is why it is better to have multiple GFCIs for aquariums. Sometimes a GFCI will just trip. If all your plugs are on the same GFCI, they all die. That means your whole tank is off. It is a little trickier to do this properly. You actually have to add a jumper wire in each gang box to bypass the GFCI. That way each GFCI is fed separately. If you have, say, your lights on one, your return pump one one and your other pumps on one. If one trips, you only lose that zone. Not the whole tank.
Your jumper wire would consist of two pigtails about six inches long. Hook them both up to the hot wire. Now you have made two hat wires. Hook one of the new hots to the line side of the GFCI and the other to the wires feeding the next outlet. This separates everything. If the GFCI is not connected properly it will not work. It won't reset.
I'm a licensed journeyman electrician so I apologize if I am confusing you.
I think I understand what you're saying, jcollins. This sounds like the easiest way to go with some redundancy so the whole circuit doesn't go out at once.
I drew this simple schematic to try and convey what I think you're talking about. Does this look correct?
I don't think I have enough outlets to put all pumps on one and all lights on another, but at least this would keep the tank which is all on one outlet isolated from everything else on that circuit, correct?
I drew this simple schematic to try and convey what I think you're talking about. Does this look correct?
I don't think I have enough outlets to put all pumps on one and all lights on another, but at least this would keep the tank which is all on one outlet isolated from everything else on that circuit, correct?
Mike31154
New member
Nothing wrong with using a good quality power bar on your GFCI to give you more outlets. The outlets on the power bar will also be protected. Just ensure you keep within the rated amperage limit for the circuit. If I'm not mistaken, there are now also GFCI power bars available.
Mike31154
New member
Not sure about the power outage scenario tripping a GFCI but it's probably true since it usually involves some sort of voltage spike when it happens. I think GFCIs have small transformers in them which are sensitive to electromagnetic spikes.
Anyhow, here's a link to a site with a few options regarding GFCI cords. They are more costly than the receptacles readily available in most home improvement stores.
http://www.sordselectric.com/Mercha...Store_Code=SE&Category_Code=G&referrer=google
Anyhow, here's a link to a site with a few options regarding GFCI cords. They are more costly than the receptacles readily available in most home improvement stores.
http://www.sordselectric.com/Mercha...Store_Code=SE&Category_Code=G&referrer=google
I wonder, if you have the GFCI (powerstrip or inline like in that link you sent), then connected that to a surge protector, then go to the outlet, if you could prevent a GFCI trip during a power outage.
edit: but then I guess if you get a ground fault at the surge protector, you're screwed there.
edit: but then I guess if you get a ground fault at the surge protector, you're screwed there.
Mike31154
New member
Yeah, the more devices you start linking together (surge protector) the more things could go wrong. With regard to a power outage, there are a number of threads on that subject. Bottom line is, that a power outage is a problem regardless of whether you're using a GFCI or not. You should make provisions for some sort of back up in any case. Maybe some one else who has experienced a power outage with GFCIs can pipe in here and confirm that the GFCI trips??
BTW, shoot me, but I've been slow getting my own power situation in order. I have an older home and not only is my tank currently not wired to a GFCI, but the receptacles running it aren't grounded....!!!! Have to get on that right away, but I have to tear into the wall to fix the whole mess.
BTW, shoot me, but I've been slow getting my own power situation in order. I have an older home and not only is my tank currently not wired to a GFCI, but the receptacles running it aren't grounded....!!!! Have to get on that right away, but I have to tear into the wall to fix the whole mess.
RichConley
New member
It depends. Most of the wall outlet GFCIs will not trip on a power outage, and will start right back up.
Most of the powerstrip ones are designed for powertools, and will trip when power goes out. No one wants a powertool starting back up when its not expected.
Mike31154
New member
I've just tripped and reset a circuit breaker powering my outdoor GFCI receptacle and the GFCI did not trip, that is once power was restored, there was no need to reset the GFCI. It's not confirmation that a power outage would not trip a GFCI but it's a good sign that your fears in that regard may be unfounded.
kcress
New member
GFI breakers have more issues than outlets. I'd use outlets.
No, DO NOT provide any non-GFI outlets to your aquarium. That is folly! It completely invalidates the point of using a GFI around a conductive liquid! You are using a GFI to protect life and property don't be foolish. Use ONLY GFI outlets around aquariums.
No, GFIs do not normally trip during power outages. If yours does replace it or fix the issue.
My house is full of GFIs they never ever nuisance trip. Many have multiple power strips plugged in to them too. The one running my entire tank setup has never tripped in 14 years.
No, DO NOT provide any non-GFI outlets to your aquarium. That is folly! It completely invalidates the point of using a GFI around a conductive liquid! You are using a GFI to protect life and property don't be foolish. Use ONLY GFI outlets around aquariums.
No, GFIs do not normally trip during power outages. If yours does replace it or fix the issue.
My house is full of GFIs they never ever nuisance trip. Many have multiple power strips plugged in to them too. The one running my entire tank setup has never tripped in 14 years.
The diagram you drew is kinda like what I said. I guess it is as accurate as you can draw it. The GFCI strip will give you the same problem. I would do the GFCI but I would put several. The GFCI protects YOU from shock. If a pump or heater shorts out it will not trip. When you stick your hand in the tank it goes to ground through you and we all know the rest. It only takes one amp to push one volt through your heart and you are dead. That is why when I work on a panel of an outlet that is hot I only put one hand in. If you get shocked it hurts and burns at worst. Two hands and your done.
Point. The fish or you. I love my fish but I love life more.
Point. The fish or you. I love my fish but I love life more.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
http://www.beananimal.com/articles/electricity-for-the-reefer.aspx
Sorry to clutter the images with watermarks, but I am starting to find my own graphics on other peoples sites, with no credit or mention of who created them....
Bean
Sorry to clutter the images with watermarks, but I am starting to find my own graphics on other peoples sites, with no credit or mention of who created them....
Bean
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