How to prevent a disaster

LouieRocco

New member
I'm working on setting up a larger tank with a sump, and was wondering, what do you do when the power goes out? I know the check valve keeps the return line from siphoning back into the sump, but what about the line to the sump that is already going that way? I've noticed modern overflows that have inlets in the top, mid, and lower areas instead of the top, so wouldn't that drain your tank? There must be something I'm overlooking.
 
Re: How to prevent a disaster

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6918910#post6918910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LouieRocco
I'm working on setting up a larger tank with a sump, and was wondering, what do you do when the power goes out? I know the check valve keeps the return line from siphoning back into the sump, but what about the line to the sump that is already going that way? I've noticed modern overflows that have inlets in the top, mid, and lower areas instead of the top, so wouldn't that drain your tank? There must be something I'm overlooking.

BTW, I would not count on check valves. They fail. Just drill an anti siphon hole in your return line at the water line.
 
I've heard that idea of drilling an anti-siphon hole but doesn't that send a jet of water out where you don't want it?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6919246#post6919246 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stgla
I've heard that idea of drilling an anti-siphon hole but doesn't that send a jet of water out where you don't want it?

You could add some airline tubing to make it point down. Regardless, a small jet of water is a small price to pay for the comfort in knowing you won't overflow your sump in a power outage.
 
I have two holes in each of my two return lines. The amount of water flowing out is minimal. Since they are right below the water line, it helps with surface aggitation.

I take a tooth pick once a month to them to make sure that the holes aren't blocked.

HTH

David
 
yo could drill 2 or 3 holes and the jet stream will be significantly lower....just make sure you drill the holes about 0.25-0.5" underneath the water line...I did one that was just at the waterline and it was splashing on top of the water so I had to tape it up
 
I need some more info on this too since i live in florida and during hurricane season the power usually goes out.

Where exactly am i supposed to drill the whole ?
When the return pump goes out it overflows my sump, i dont understand how a whole under the water line would stop it from sucking water backwards.

Can someone explain please.
 
the reason why it over flows your sump is becuase the return pipe tends to syphoon backwards becuase of bakpressure i think.

the whole reason why you drill a hole near the return pump hose is becuase when the water syphoons below that hole (in sump)... it'll stop itself from syphooning anymore.

now i have a question of my own.

i have a 72g with overflowbox and 20g sump. when everything is going... the pump that returns the water tends to suck up all the water and overflows the top ...(display tank) .. does this mean that the pump is too strong and i have to put a valve on it to slow it down?

if this doens't make sense i can try to clarify
 
yes its to strong.. or you could say that your overflow cant flow fast enough... either slow the flow or run larger overflow hoses to your sump.

For me I found that I actually had a 90 on 1 of my overflow hoses. Once I put an straight barb fitting on it solved the overflowing of the display tank
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6921731#post6921731 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GoblinFish
Where exactly am i supposed to drill the whole ?
When the return pump goes out it overflows my sump, i dont understand how a whole under the water line would stop it from sucking water backwards.
Take a look at this picture:
54621siphon_breaks.JPG


Notice on each side of the downward pipe, there is a hole just below the waterline. If the main pump shuts off in a power outage, the water line drops slightly. As soon as the water level drops, the hole is exposed to air. The suction on the pipe is broken, and no more water is syphoned back down to the sump.
 
kojinwah-- I have a 75G with a Mag 12, which is way to strong. To cut back on the power I attached a SCWD and another return line. This slowed the pump down by using part of the power to operate the SCWD.
Fred
 
do you have a picture... can't really picture it on my mind

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6921972#post6921972 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tetra9999
yes its to strong.. or you could say that your overflow cant flow fast enough... either slow the flow or run larger overflow hoses to your sump.

For me I found that I actually had a 90 on 1 of my overflow hoses. Once I put an straight barb fitting on it solved the overflowing of the display tank
 
what is a scwd?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6922521#post6922521 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fred_J
kojinwah-- I have a 75G with a Mag 12, which is way to strong. To cut back on the power I attached a SCWD and another return line. This slowed the pump down by using part of the power to operate the SCWD.
Fred
 
i plan to buy a barb and attach it with a valve to slow down the return... hopefully it will solve my problem.. got pretty scary when the water almost flooded my floors from the main tank...

anyways i have a model 5 mag... and it still seems pretty strong..
 
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