Folks:
As I mentioned in a couple of other threads, my DIY HQI Fixture is up and running :dance:
I'm using a 500w Halogen outdoor 'yard light' fixture. Here's a picture of the inside without the internal reflector or glass, showing how I cut away the metal retaining brackets for the Halogen ceramic holders to make room for the HQI holders:
I used a dremel moto-tool with a ceramic cutting wheel to cut the aluminum flanges off - you can see the bright silver areas where there were these halogen holder flanges.
It took about 2-3 days to carve this out; it's a bit tight in there. My other plan was to cut off the 'top' where the new ceramic would go and bolt from the top. This might be easier; or attaching a plate to the fixture. The holders I got did NOT have the connecting bar though, so I needed something to hold them at the right distance - thus the holes.
You might see four holes where I put some stainless screws to hold the ceramic HQI holders:
Another view showing both ends and the holes:
Here it is with the holders loosly assembled
Here
Now, the complete fixture with screws loosly assembled, the aluminum reflector that came with it, and my Dog's leg for scale(25 lbs of beligerant pug
) :
Note that I had no way to orient the 'nipple'
as the holders only fit in one way.
I then put the plate of glass that came with the fixture back - it withstands the heat fine and already has a couple of small water spots on it - so it's withstood small splashes.
The bulb is closer to the glass than I'd like - the only way to move it back would be to cut a larger hole in the fixture.
However, with the bulb where it is, it defocuses the light JUST PERFECTLY to cover the bottom of a 24x24x48" tank. The light is approx 10" above the tank. I used the cover from an outdoor light socket to screw the end of the fixture into - if you have more room, you could just use a junction box as is. (I wanted the fixture as high as possible).
I am running this on the L&N 250 watt ballast from Lamps Now. I am also running a 250w Mogul base Ushio 10K bulb on a standard Advance ANSI ballast (I forget if it's M58 or M59, the correct one).
When I first fired up the fixture, I had it sitting on the carpet for about 15 minutes, and the entire fixture was cool enough to put my hands on. However, after running for a longer time, the fixture does get quite hot. I have a fan blowing across the front of the glass; it reduces the heat considerably and doesn't seem to change the color or intensity of the light.
The light is definitly brighter and bluer than the 250w.
The Halogen fixture I've had for probably 15 years, so I don't know if it's exactly like the ones you could get now at Home Depot / etc, but it should be pretty similar, as these longer halogen bulbs are pretty standard.
Whoo Hoo! Time for a cold one :beer:
== John ==
As I mentioned in a couple of other threads, my DIY HQI Fixture is up and running :dance:
I'm using a 500w Halogen outdoor 'yard light' fixture. Here's a picture of the inside without the internal reflector or glass, showing how I cut away the metal retaining brackets for the Halogen ceramic holders to make room for the HQI holders:
I used a dremel moto-tool with a ceramic cutting wheel to cut the aluminum flanges off - you can see the bright silver areas where there were these halogen holder flanges.
It took about 2-3 days to carve this out; it's a bit tight in there. My other plan was to cut off the 'top' where the new ceramic would go and bolt from the top. This might be easier; or attaching a plate to the fixture. The holders I got did NOT have the connecting bar though, so I needed something to hold them at the right distance - thus the holes.
You might see four holes where I put some stainless screws to hold the ceramic HQI holders:
Another view showing both ends and the holes:
Here it is with the holders loosly assembled
Here
Now, the complete fixture with screws loosly assembled, the aluminum reflector that came with it, and my Dog's leg for scale(25 lbs of beligerant pug
) :
Note that I had no way to orient the 'nipple'
as the holders only fit in one way.I then put the plate of glass that came with the fixture back - it withstands the heat fine and already has a couple of small water spots on it - so it's withstood small splashes.
The bulb is closer to the glass than I'd like - the only way to move it back would be to cut a larger hole in the fixture.
However, with the bulb where it is, it defocuses the light JUST PERFECTLY to cover the bottom of a 24x24x48" tank. The light is approx 10" above the tank. I used the cover from an outdoor light socket to screw the end of the fixture into - if you have more room, you could just use a junction box as is. (I wanted the fixture as high as possible).
I am running this on the L&N 250 watt ballast from Lamps Now. I am also running a 250w Mogul base Ushio 10K bulb on a standard Advance ANSI ballast (I forget if it's M58 or M59, the correct one).
When I first fired up the fixture, I had it sitting on the carpet for about 15 minutes, and the entire fixture was cool enough to put my hands on. However, after running for a longer time, the fixture does get quite hot. I have a fan blowing across the front of the glass; it reduces the heat considerably and doesn't seem to change the color or intensity of the light.
The light is definitly brighter and bluer than the 250w.
The Halogen fixture I've had for probably 15 years, so I don't know if it's exactly like the ones you could get now at Home Depot / etc, but it should be pretty similar, as these longer halogen bulbs are pretty standard.
Whoo Hoo! Time for a cold one :beer:
== John ==
Last edited:
). You even figured out my secret: breaking off the extraneous bits with pliers. 
