I need care info of these species of corals:

Musho3210

New member
Since i have been offered free frags of corals and there is a half price sale of corals at my lfs, i think i should get corals...

*Frogspawn*
Candycane
Torch or hammer
*Brain*
Bubble

ones with stars are the ones that i REALLY want.

I need to know:

How do i acclimate them? Same as fish? I do drip acclimates with fish but i dont know if corals should have drip acclimate...

Food, do i need to feed them? If i do, how and what?

Flow, which ones like a larger amount of flow and which ones like the softer flow so i can find a good posistion for them

Light: which ones like a lot of light, which ones dont like that much light, which ones like shade?

And lastly are they all compatable in a 20 gallon tank? Info can be found at my reef log which you can access to on my homepage, i will probably get them all as frags except the brain.

and just give me any facts you feel like giving, i would apreciate it, even if they are very obvious.
 
*Frogspawn* Medium to low flow, medium to low light, may not need feeding if feeding fish.
Candycane Medium to low light, medium flow. optional feed small meaty foods or small pellets at night.
Torch or hammer Same as Frogspawn
*Brain* (Lobophylia) Low flow and low light. Good for under a ledge. Feed meaty foods at night
Bubble Same as frogspawn
 
Ill agree with most everything jdieck, but will add:

Bubble- really do best long term if offered food regularly. mysis, chopped marine flesh, etc

Brain- without knowing what kind it is, its impossible to tell. The information given above is pretty good for Lobophyllia as well as Blastomussa, some Acanthastrea, and a few others, but many "brains" (Platygyra, Favia, etc) do best under strong light and flow. If you get the coral, post up some pics and we can try to give you something a little more specific.
 
Float for 15 minutes or so equalize temps. I squirt water from a turkey baster into the bag every 10 minutes or so for maybe up to an hour. Then do an inspection (and dips, esp. on anything going into the SPS tank-haven't run into too many LPS and softie pests that are big problems). I don't acclimate through dilution on everything, though. Some just get temp acclimation and an introduction to the tank water in the incoming dip.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10552238#post10552238 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by discocarp
I drip acclimate everything.

Same here. I would also recommend quarenteene if you already have corals in your main tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10553204#post10553204 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Same here. I would also recommend quarenteene if you already have corals in your main tank.

I quarantine everything too. :) I also hypo all my fish, always. :)
 
well theres nothing to protect in my tank so i dont need to quarantine for now....

How do i dip? Freshwater dip?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10554839#post10554839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Musho3210
well theres nothing to protect in my tank so i dont need to quarantine for now....

How do i dip? Freshwater dip?
No dipping here, IMO it causes more stress than benefit. The only dip I would recommend with acroporas only will be interceptor to prevent spreading red bugs, IMO any other dipping is unnecessary if the corals are relatively healthy.
 
You qt fish to protect your TANK from imported pests; you dip corals in the acropora class. Jdieck is right. Just watch your sources.
 
That is right, fish quarantine is basically to avoid spreading parasites, bacterial and fungal diseases but basically the one things to be careful about with corals are montipora nudis, brown jelly, acro flat worms and red bugs and because there is no effective dip I know of for either jelly, nudis nor acro flat worms really the only one left is red bugs which mainly affects acros and trated with interceptor.
Quarantine will sooner or later show if you got any of the other three.
 
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