Im ro/di dumb

Andrew

Andrew

Active member
Im ordering one tonight and have a few questions. Im going to be installing a sink to use in our basement and use the adpater to attach to it. My question is, how does the RO.DI get the water? Would you have to turn on the faset so much or how does this work? Might sound dumb to come people but I'm clueless with ro.di units. Im getting a New Reef 6st 100GPD Reverse Osmosis RO+DI Water Filters from ebay.
 
I just wanted to ask because you said you were clueless with RO/DI. Does that unit come with a DOW FilmTec membrane? Vertical DI canisters? There are quite a few threads about RO/DI units here and why certain units are more desirable than others.

Anyway, if the sink is just for a "fish" room you'd be able to just tie into the water supply line for the RO. If it is a sink in a bathroom, then you could also do that if the sink has a cabinet below it (you could put it inside). If you are installing a pedestal sink, then you'd probably just use the faucet adapter and hook it up each time you're making water.

eee
 
Words from e-bay site:

-Use most reliable name brand TFC (made in U.S.A.) Reverse Osmosis membrane

-to removes 98% to 99.99% of all chemical and harmful dissolved elements and 99% of all bacteria



Go to e-bay, search for ro/di and look for "New Reef 6st 100GPD Reverse Osmosis RO+DI Water Filters" Don't want to post links because im not sure if e-bay links are allowed here.


Im just going to put in a sink that I can use for multiple reasons. Washing hands, cleaning rock, ro unit, ect. So I would just turn on the faset a little bit or how would I know how much to turn it on?
 
I just use a faucet adapter that when you want to make water, you just pull a little tab in the adapter and it stops water from going through the faucet into the sink and sends the water through the RO/DI unit.

I figured out about how long it takes to make one water bin (about 5 gallons) and set a timer. I also run the waste water into the washer so I don't "waste" it.
 
Ah, unfortunately that doesn't look like a DOW membrane and ebay does not regulate item descriptions very closely (there is a lot of false advertising, but that has been discussed before). There are many threads in this forum and "reef discussion" and "new to the hobby" forums on why the DOW FilmTec membrane is the most effective membrane typically used in our RO/DI units. Another thing I would like to point out is the use of horizontal DI. They are not as effective as full size vertical canisters (though you may mount that unit sideways and get better performance, it is still not as good as a full size vertical canister). You will also want to get a TDS meter as that is the only way to tell you when to replace filters. Please read through this thread before you decide to purchase (this is just one of many like this). If you still decide to get that unit, I will still respect your decision.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=809763

eee
 
One more question, If I would have a sink which leads to the RO.DI unit, wouldn't it have to be uder the faset level so the unit can be gravity feed, since it won't pump up?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7053853#post7053853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Andrew
One more question, If I would have a sink which leads to the RO.DI unit, wouldn't it have to be uder the faset level so the unit can be gravity feed, since it won't pump up?
Click to expand...

Unless you're going to be pushing water up to another floor it won't make much of a difference (even then it might not). Though it is recommened that the unit not have much backpressure on the outputs, so you wouldn't want to pump your output water up to another floor say....though a few feet is just fine.

eee
 
Ahhhh, I see now we are rising in price. :) My recommendation is the Typhoon III from www.airwaterice.com
It does come with TDS meter and extra prefilter which are staggered in size reduction. The first is 10micron, second 5 micron, third 1 micron. This helps to promote a more natural filtration method without having the first stage take up all the particles and become prematurely clogged giving your unit less pressure. (This can also be changed when you re-order filters though). Not to say the unit you posted isn't good, it is. Just factor getting a TDS meter with that too. At any rate you are now on the right track.

eee
 
Tube color is usually just reserved for quick identification of what type of water is in the tube. So not worries on that. You will want to get a TDS meter with that also, pretty much mandatory. There are inline versions and hand-held. Adding the pressure gauge is nice too, but not totally necessary if you have city water and normal water pressure (~50psi). Though if you're not getting expected output, you will need a pressure guage for debugging purposes as water production is dependent on pressure. So with those, now you're getting close to ~$200. :)

eee
 
Unit: $ 149.99
Add on pressure Gauge: $ 14.99
TDS 3 Handheld TDS Meter: $ 24.99

Total: $189.97

Sounds like a good deal to me. Wish they were cheaper though.
 
Looks good to me. Just be sure to get the 75GPD DOW membrane. (It's a little confusing because they have 100 and 75 on the same page, but don't mention which one is default.)

And you thought you were getting a $69 unit. :)

eee
 
So the model in the link comes with the 75GPD DOW membrane? How come it then says Our 100 gpd 4 stage Aquarium system.
 
I was told by airwaterice that the 75 gpd membrane was more efficient than the 100 gpd (they explained it at the time, and it made sense, but if I tried to repeat it, you'd probably look at me like I had 3 heads)
 
Not sure, in the specs it says 75GPD..... The 100GPD only has a ~90% rejection ratio compared to 98% for the 75GPD membrane. DOW does make both, but unless you really need that extra 25GPD, you'll be burning up DI a lot faster than with the 75GPD membrane. Just give 'em a call, unless it's very clear when ordering.

eee
 
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