A few decades ago, I'd have blanched at the notion of digging a 5000 gallon hole in my yard (koi pond) and mail-ordering a massive pump and 3" hose and skimmer. Or at the notion of putting in a bath sink and fixtures.
You do learn useful skills in this hobby.
A few basic principles.
If you leave a pump connected that is lower than your tank and have NO break between the hose and your tank water, it can siphon backward, even when unplugged. To prevent this you use a 'siphon break' (a small hole in the line at the highest point) or a gap between hose end and water.
If this happens to be your ato (autotopoff) pump, it will seesaw on and off as it drains, then fills---for endless hours---, equalizing the salinity of your tank with itself---meaning it will lower it as it pours ALL the freshwater in the topoff into your tank, sharing equally.
Water alarms (of many decibels) are a quiet but very useful thing to have below your tank.
If you are working with a draining pump during water change and absentmindedly set it down into a bucket near you, even while off---see 'siphon.'
YOu can use metal hose clamps in fresh water. NOT in salt water.
Teflon tape should be wrapped so that the screw-on item goes on in a direction WITH the tape, and does not shove it backwards and break the seal.
Teflon tape takes only a few turns, not a massive wad.
A pipecutter for PVC is a nice thing to have.
GPH means gallons per hour. EG my 54 gallon tank took a 950 gph pump. My basement sump has a 2234 gph pump for a 105 gallon upstairs.
HEAD is, particularly, the distance UP a pump has to lift; a Maxijet 400 will not lift to your tank but a 1200 will. A 15 foot head for an IWAKI 100 will still deliver a very potent water stream to the tank.
Powerheads are little 'assister' pumps that suck up water in your tank and spit it out faster. They are also death traps for anemones and will distribute stinging-cell chowder throughout your tank. Screen those! Or just get a main (return) pump with more oomph.
Leaks underwater are far less significant...ie, they don't matter much.
Don't glue pipes you may ever want to move again---and this includes standpipes and connections to your sump.
Wavemakers are devices that nod or vary the input of the return pump to the tank to simulate ocean currents.
Put a GATE valve in a line you may ever want to disconnect. There are also CAPS for bulkhead connectors, which can help you in a repair job. Never use a CHECK valve (prevents backflow in a line, but clogs like crazy and fails and floods your house.)
Water that has living things in it plus a lot of calcium is different than regular plumbing: it can form clogs and calcium carbonate accretions. To dissolve these overnight, put a part in pure white vinegar, or just set an afflicted pump in it and run it for as long as you dare leave your tank pumpless. A little dose of vinegar is safe with your reef tank.
Pumps that have been used have water in them. This can contain parasites or whatever was pumped last.
ALmost ANY plumbing configuration can be achieved by combining connectors. There are reducers to step down a size, male connectors, female connectors, slip connectors (no thread at all), and you can even reduce a hose by slipping another hose into it, then using a hose clamp.
A hose barb is how you join two hoses: a clamp is recommended in addition if outside the tank. There are barbs with one screw end, too. And if the configuration you want doesn't exist, start putting pieces together at the hardware store until you achieve it.
Hose is measured two ways: inside diameter and outside diameter. When buying, be sure how you are measuring, or you can end up with a hose that won't fit.
NEVER throw out a stub of hose or a spare connector: you will accumulate a box of these that will save your life at some moments. My return line for my ato has a locline adapter shoved into a half-inch inner diameter hose that fits the Eheim pump, but adapts the half-inch hose down to a quarter inch hose for delivery to the tank so it will deliver topoff slowly and accurately. Saved me a trip to the store and works like a charm.
To make a very long post short, expect to learn. Develop a toolkit, a hose stash, a parts stash, and learn how water lines work. Someday you can install a bathroom sink with the best of 'em.
You do learn useful skills in this hobby.
A few basic principles.
If you leave a pump connected that is lower than your tank and have NO break between the hose and your tank water, it can siphon backward, even when unplugged. To prevent this you use a 'siphon break' (a small hole in the line at the highest point) or a gap between hose end and water.
If this happens to be your ato (autotopoff) pump, it will seesaw on and off as it drains, then fills---for endless hours---, equalizing the salinity of your tank with itself---meaning it will lower it as it pours ALL the freshwater in the topoff into your tank, sharing equally.
Water alarms (of many decibels) are a quiet but very useful thing to have below your tank.
If you are working with a draining pump during water change and absentmindedly set it down into a bucket near you, even while off---see 'siphon.'
YOu can use metal hose clamps in fresh water. NOT in salt water.
Teflon tape should be wrapped so that the screw-on item goes on in a direction WITH the tape, and does not shove it backwards and break the seal.
Teflon tape takes only a few turns, not a massive wad.
A pipecutter for PVC is a nice thing to have.
GPH means gallons per hour. EG my 54 gallon tank took a 950 gph pump. My basement sump has a 2234 gph pump for a 105 gallon upstairs.
HEAD is, particularly, the distance UP a pump has to lift; a Maxijet 400 will not lift to your tank but a 1200 will. A 15 foot head for an IWAKI 100 will still deliver a very potent water stream to the tank.
Powerheads are little 'assister' pumps that suck up water in your tank and spit it out faster. They are also death traps for anemones and will distribute stinging-cell chowder throughout your tank. Screen those! Or just get a main (return) pump with more oomph.
Leaks underwater are far less significant...ie, they don't matter much.
Don't glue pipes you may ever want to move again---and this includes standpipes and connections to your sump.
Wavemakers are devices that nod or vary the input of the return pump to the tank to simulate ocean currents.
Put a GATE valve in a line you may ever want to disconnect. There are also CAPS for bulkhead connectors, which can help you in a repair job. Never use a CHECK valve (prevents backflow in a line, but clogs like crazy and fails and floods your house.)
Water that has living things in it plus a lot of calcium is different than regular plumbing: it can form clogs and calcium carbonate accretions. To dissolve these overnight, put a part in pure white vinegar, or just set an afflicted pump in it and run it for as long as you dare leave your tank pumpless. A little dose of vinegar is safe with your reef tank.
Pumps that have been used have water in them. This can contain parasites or whatever was pumped last.
ALmost ANY plumbing configuration can be achieved by combining connectors. There are reducers to step down a size, male connectors, female connectors, slip connectors (no thread at all), and you can even reduce a hose by slipping another hose into it, then using a hose clamp.
A hose barb is how you join two hoses: a clamp is recommended in addition if outside the tank. There are barbs with one screw end, too. And if the configuration you want doesn't exist, start putting pieces together at the hardware store until you achieve it.
Hose is measured two ways: inside diameter and outside diameter. When buying, be sure how you are measuring, or you can end up with a hose that won't fit.
NEVER throw out a stub of hose or a spare connector: you will accumulate a box of these that will save your life at some moments. My return line for my ato has a locline adapter shoved into a half-inch inner diameter hose that fits the Eheim pump, but adapts the half-inch hose down to a quarter inch hose for delivery to the tank so it will deliver topoff slowly and accurately. Saved me a trip to the store and works like a charm.
To make a very long post short, expect to learn. Develop a toolkit, a hose stash, a parts stash, and learn how water lines work. Someday you can install a bathroom sink with the best of 'em.
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Just will take you a bit longer.
