In-wall 380gal tank - cut out options

karimwassef · Mar 2, 2016

I'm starting to this Xenia filters and GSP filters would work even better for export.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iVw9gNOddeA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Westcoastindia · Mar 4, 2016

I Think you don't have to use foam beneath the tank. Just split you base into two parts and make sure the stand is leveled accurately. The foam would not compensate for any irregularities in leveling.
How would you be going about it?
Front and sides on top of the base or you build all of them around the base?

karimwassef · Mar 4, 2016

The tank's been set up for nearly 2 years now

I did put a 3/4" foam under it

Westcoastindia · Mar 5, 2016

I'll rephrase it.
Foam does not make no difference. Whether you put it or don't. Know am saying?
If you do a little more research about tank with floating bases. The commercial manufacturers does not recommend Putting any of it beneath the tank, it may cause tank failure. The reasoning is simple.
It also depends on the method you go for. Floating bottom or all glass on the base Or whatever.

karimwassef · Mar 5, 2016

My reasoning for using foam was to avoid point pressure sources that could cause a fracture.

Westcoastindia · Mar 5, 2016

karimwassef said:
My reasoning for using foam was to avoid point pressure sources that could cause a fracture.

Karim,
You didn't get my point. Anyways.
How's your current tank caulked?
I mean the placement of the glass. All glass the verticals do they stand on the bottom? Or the glass are glued around the bottom on the seam face?

karimwassef · Mar 5, 2016

This tank was built for me. It's a clear silicone seam.

I understand that the kind of glass determines the necessity for foam. Since I don't know what kind of glass was used, the foam was a safe bet.

rcr · Mar 6, 2016

Heat

Heat

Your thread is very interesting and my hat is off to all the DIY. If I may ask a question? How have you regulated your temps? I am about to start a garage sump and being in Alabama the summers can be quite long and hot. I was planning on using a stock 75 sitting on the garage(concrete) floor in hopes it would have a cooling effect. I saw where you stressed the importance of ventilation. I am going to build a fish room with forced air ventilation but the air will not be heated or cooled. How do you deal with temps in June, July and August?

karimwassef · Mar 6, 2016

I have a chiller, a dehumidifier, a window AC and a vent fan.

Temperature is important, but not as much as humidity, and as long as the volume of air is small enough, it can be managed with a window unit.

In the winter, the dehumidifier keeps my garage warm. I have a hose that goes out to drip water my yard with the output.

In the summer, the AC keeps my garage cool & the drip pan water goes to my yard.

The vent fan keeps the air fresh and exhausts the hottest air.

If all that isn't enough (it is Texas), the chiller kicks in. The trick to avoid doing double duty is to have the chiller outside to avoid pulling heat from the water to the garage air, then taxing the AC to remove it to the yard again.

A split unit AC works well too. I wish they made a split unit chiller.

I had thought of building my sump as a concrete 'tub' so it would get 'chilled' by the ground, but I had to work with what I've got. In my next tank, if I have the option, that's what I'd do. Texas clay complicates under-ground structured areas like basements because it creates massive hydraulic pressure.

It's not impossible to fix, but costs more in TX because it requires an engineered structure.

karimwassef · Mar 7, 2016

Hey - if you like my tank and want to see more videos, please check out and subscribe to my youtube channel

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDz3Mpbp4B_T3jpfOeZ60Yg

I need more than 7 to do more in it

oreo57 · Mar 7, 2016

karimwassef said:
This tank was built for me. It's a clear silicone seam.

I understand that the kind of glass determines the necessity for foam. Since I don't know what kind of glass was used, the foam was a safe bet.

not that it matters now but they meant .. is the side glass glued to the top of the bottom slab.. OR to the side of the bottom slab of glass...

One has the sides resting on top of the bottom glass,

the other has the bottom "floating" around the side glass.....

Floating means you are much less likely to crack the base.
The load is on the "side walls" not on the base.
With a floating base you also don't necessarily need anything under the tank it can sit straight on the stand (subject to the stand being clean and flat).

from the image it looks to float....

karimwassef · Mar 7, 2016

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/2247BBB2-69A0-483C-8694-728885A658DF_zpsv1neqqan.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/2247BBB2-69A0-483C-8694-728885A658DF_zpsv1neqqan.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2247BBB2-69A0-483C-8694-728885A658DF_zpsv1neqqan.jpg"/></a>

Little grungy back there (been set up for a couple of years). One on the side, one on the top.

karimwassef · Jul 9, 2016

for those who have followed this build.. here's some recent vids

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F4S2vnxXVbc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mSzO3DBbSE0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/41usuLeiNbE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'm calling its official first life introduced birthday as July 31st 2013 so it's coming up on three years now

The original dual actuated surge is still working. I have new actuated valves but I haven't installed them yet.
The original dual injected penductor 12' skimmer is still working. I've added a controlled liquid export fault sensor so it can't overflow without warning. It shuts it down until I actively clear the fault.
The original plywood sump is still working.
The original concrete rockscape is still working.
The original multi-level sump with tiered DSB containers is still in operation in the cryptic zone. The chaeto section has been converted to a box and the fast flow region has been modified to a floating ATS screen.
The original alternating flow motor is still working but has required a lot of maintenance so I'm modifying it to an electronic flow alternator using the Apex (in progress).
I've taken the CO2 scrubber offline
The original LED strip with fans has required a lot of maintenance. I've rebuilt the LEDs twice and am in the process of migration to liquid cooling.
I've added a lower power UV LED moon strip. That's still active using passive air cooling.
The original kalk reactor is still working. I've added a water level sensor and made the mixing blades larger with eggcrate. I've also changed the motor from continuous slow rotation to pulsed high rotation.
I've added the window AC and roof fan along with the dehumidifier.
I've added two reactors - one GFO, one GAC
I've added a weir end to end overflow ATS
I've added a large waterfall ATS and an aux tank
I've gone to all dual ended MH 400W instead of just 1 and 2 mogul base.
I've added 4 flow swings to create XY flow redirection.
I've started an alkalinity auto-tester, still on the list
I've added two remote monitoring cameras

I think that captures it so far

gregkn73 · Jan 29, 2017

karimwassef said:
Added salt and sand

Have you any detail thread , how you make your scape with PVC and concrete?

karimwassef · Jan 29, 2017

Yes

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2391044&page=14

karimwassef · Dec 1, 2017

ok... so this tank has come down. I've migrated to an outside greenhouse reef (adventures)...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2653824&page=4

but I wanted to go back and show the 180gal plywood sump that's been running for 4 years once it's taken down:

(it's on the curb for trash pickup

... but it served me so well)

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/3F9EF9F4-3F4A-4D4B-A080-3EE5FD314970_zpsia65f8nq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/3F9EF9F4-3F4A-4D4B-A080-3EE5FD314970_zpsia65f8nq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 3F9EF9F4-3F4A-4D4B-A080-3EE5FD314970_zpsia65f8nq.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/A1F678DC-6BAF-4E85-9C43-E2C85AED6C5F_zpsree2wnrj.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/A1F678DC-6BAF-4E85-9C43-E2C85AED6C5F_zpsree2wnrj.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo A1F678DC-6BAF-4E85-9C43-E2C85AED6C5F_zpsree2wnrj.jpg"/></a>

karimwassef · Dec 1, 2017

karimwassef · Dec 1, 2017

karimwassef · Dec 1, 2017

Basically, it's in outstanding shape. There is no weakness in the wood and the epoxy is solid. The outside discoloration is the result of spills and the paint worked reasonably well.

If I could do it again, I'd put a couple of coats of epoxy outside too... but otherwise a very successful experiment.

Esh1 · Dec 3, 2017

didn't ready the whole thread and had skipped to the last few pages. The sump caught me off guard. didn't think plywood would be a good material to use. Pretty cool to see! Thanks for sharing start to finish!

In-wall 380gal tank - cut out options

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