Instant Ocean at 340 Ca2?

WVfishguy

New member
Since I’ve set my latest display last February, I’ve had rapid growth in the montiporas and scroll corals. I’ve had fingernail-sized frags grow to ten inches around nearly before my eyes, as well as other corals and octocorals and a very healthy, rapidly-growing derasa clam.

The display is 90 gal, the sump is a 75 with two mag 9.5s and a large skimmer, socks, & ‘fuge.

Suddenly, about a month ago, growth stopped. The clam is doing well, but the montiporas seemed to die in the center, and the outside part where growth was rapid has stopped. I thought it may be temperature related at first, because there were several days when the temps were around 85.

I lowered the temps with fans, and replaced all three halide bulbs - two 175 SEs, and a center 250 DE. Didn’t seem to make a difference.

I should ad that I performed ALL tests twice with exact results each time.

I’ve been ill lately, but have still done my share of bi-weekly water changes.

Because I’ve been a ill I did not check parameters for a month or so. I tested yesterday, and I was surprised to find my calcium down to 380 ppm. I did a 50 gallon water change with Instant Ocean two days ago, and I really expected a higher calcium number. It usually runs around 400+.

I then checked the Instant Ocean mix left over, and found it was at 340! The water has been mixing with pumps for about 10 days.
I have actually been lowering my calcium by doing water changes.

Other parameters are:
• Kh - 9 dKH
• ph - 8.4-8.5
• No3 - 0
• No2 - 0
• Salinity is .1025
• Temp is staying near 80.
• I didn’t test for mag as yet, but it’s usually very high with IO mix.
• Replacement water to display is from kalkwasser drip.

I’m using an API test. I have good reason to believe the test is accurate because I’ve used it quite a bit on both my displays over the months.

I’ve read about “bad batches” of salt mixes, but is this common? Do we now have to test each batch of freshly mixed salt water?

I’m afraid my large montiporas are already lost. Would a sudden drop in salinity cause them to wither?
 
It can happen..
I would most certainly want a second opinion on my test result before I reacted though..

One should at least test each new bag/box/bucket of salt to ensure its in the acceptable range..
Many do test each and every newly mixed batch..
 
The water in the 75 gal. quarantine tank is 400 ppm - as usual. I have not done a partial change on that tank lately. I really think I got a bad batch.
 
That doesn't seem right, are you sure your kit is correct. Are you sure your refractometer is calibrated? At 1.026 or 35ppt it should mix up and ca should be 440.

I always mix IO and RC. It's that happy medium for me.

Check your kits or double check them. A bad batch is rare. I've been using them for about 20 years now.


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That doesn't seem right, are you sure your kit is correct. Are you sure your refractometer is calibrated? At 1.026 or 35ppt it should mix up and ca should be 440.

I always mix IO and RC. It's that happy medium for me.

Check your kits or double check them. A bad batch is rare. I've been using them for about 20 years now.


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I agree about the RC - I've used RC for nearly 40 years and never had a problem.
Freaked me out to see Ca2 @ 340 in freshly made water. You bet I double and triple checked. All snails, urchin, clam, gorgonians, everything which eats calc is fine except montiporas.
I checked all kits against the ancient 75 gallon quarantine tank, got all the usual results.
BTW - there is NO purple encrusting algae in either tank. And I'm glad.

I mixed up a solution of turbo calcium, slow dripped it for a couple days, now Ca is 420 in display. Everything seems fine. Just a weird thing.
 
I agree about the RC - I've used RC for nearly 40 years and never had a problem.

Freaked me out to see Ca2 @ 340 in freshly made water. You bet I double and triple checked. All snails, urchin, clam, gorgonians, everything which eats calc is fine except montiporas.

I checked all kits against the ancient 75 gallon quarantine tank, got all the usual results.

BTW - there is NO purple encrusting algae in either tank. And I'm glad.



I mixed up a solution of turbo calcium, slow dripped it for a couple days, now Ca is 420 in display. Everything seems fine. Just a weird thing.



Super strange to see that. Maybe you got the batch I didn't get lol. My display and coraline don't get along, never have. Silly hobby.

Glad to hear you're back to where you should be [emoji106]


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I've had a bad batch of RC. sent in a sample to them to confirm and they sent me back more than my original purchase...…
 
Just got back from my LFS 40 miles away. He has a great selection of corals. He told me this is why his shop tests for EVERYTHING ever three days - sometimes more! :eek2:

He also recommended Fritz salt - he said it was guaranteed.
 
I have heard a lot of good things about Fritz. But a personally believe a bad batch is an isolated event and can happen to anyone or any brand.

Corey
 
I have heard a lot of good things about Fritz. But a personally believe a bad batch is an isolated event and can happen to anyone or any brand.

Corey
Hope you're right, but no way I'm taking that chance. I've lost two montis more than 10 inches around, and a large scroll and some other. I'm testing every batch and the display at least weekly now.
 
I wouldn't think that 380ppm Ca in the display would cause much trouble. That's pretty close to natural seawater levels.
 
All salts can vary between batches, so I usually buy a 200g box and test that and usually good to go from there.

I've mainly used RC as it normally is higher in CA than IO, never had an issue personally.

I would reach for a salifert kit over the API
 
I wouldn't think that 380ppm Ca in the display would cause much trouble. That's pretty close to natural seawater levels.

I was thinking same thing, not optimal of course, but should not cause any real harm,not like a swing in alk would anyway
 
All salts can vary between batches, so I usually buy a 200g box and test that and usually good to go from there.

I've mainly used RC as it normally is higher in CA than IO, never had an issue personally.

I would reach for a salifert kit over the API

I also always test 5he first batch of water with a new bag of salt. I have tried several other brands over my 20+ years of reefkeeping, but always come back to IO/RC.
 
For what it's worth, I have had this happen to me as well (might even be in my post history). Tested and found my tank's Calc to be at 290-300 after a few water changes and a lot of assumptions as to the levels of the salt in that batch of IO Reef Crystals. The actual mix came in at about 310-320 (tested 2 different kits). LFS tested the same.

I always test a gallon with a new batch now, out of straight-up paranoia.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about it. Dosing is just part of the game IME. (whether your salt is on the level or not) You could just automate the system so that you don't need to lift a finger, but where's the the fun in that? As long as you keep the levels "within reason" it's all good. GL.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/
 
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Just got back from my LFS 40 miles away. He has a great selection of corals. He told me this is why his shop tests for EVERYTHING ever three days - sometimes more! :eek2:

He also recommended Fritz salt - he said it was guaranteed.

Which LFS do you go to?
 
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