Instant Ocean salt SUCKS!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10068858#post10068858 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by waterfaller1
Well at least noone has said throw away your test kits, stop dosing, just do water changes, and rely on your eyes to tell you if there is something amiss with your corals as someone else has just posted at another site.:rolleyes: I still don't think water changes are going to maintain tank parameters as they should be. Driving CA up so high that it never drops? Sounds like extreme swings to me...that's real good for corals.....not.

I agree with you, but try convincing loyal Oceanic users of that :lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10070082#post10070082 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randall_James
With 20% water changes every week, there really is nothing to "go out of whack" that is going to be caught by any test kit. New tanks, new tank owners should test but talking with guys that have had tanks for over 2 or 3 years, you might be surprised just how few do test their water. I would be happy to send you a sample and you can test what ever you want but I would be you find that the water is pretty much pristine. (taking into account the water is never more than about 4 or 5 weeks old)

Randall, you are in the minority, but good for you. :thumbsup:

Anyone who has the time to do 20% water changes weekly should have pristine water conditions.

I do 20% every 2 weeks and am happy with that.

It doesn't surprise me at all that you are able to keep your parameters in check with your program. :)
 
My system is pretty much automated, the only thing I have to do is add the salt to the reservoir prior to the "overnight" water change.

And it takes all night to change too....

I use a rather oddball system to do mine as they are unattended.

I use a aqua-lifter pump that dumps the water directly into the sump. As the sump level increases, so does the water level in my skimmer. As you know, when the water level in the skimmer goes up, so does the amount of skim mate. The collection cup runs directly to a floor drain and so never needs emptied.

well by morning the water change tank is almost empty, the skimmer has cleaned itself very well and the water level is about 2 inches too higher than normal in the sump. (there is a 1/4 inch drain line installed in the top of the sump in case the skimmer was to quit working, gravity would keep the system from overflowing)

I think the water the skimmer dumps is higher in dissolved organics than if I just dumped water out of the system.

Little odd for a water change system but i was bored and had to find something to do one saturday :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10070082#post10070082 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randall_James
With 20% water changes every week, there really is nothing to "go out of whack" that is going to be caught by any test kit. New tanks, new tank owners should test but talking with guys that have had tanks for over 2 or 3 years, you might be surprised just how few do test their water. I would be happy to send you a sample and you can test what ever you want but I would be you find that the water is pretty much pristine. (taking into account the water is never more than about 4 or 5 weeks old)

Hmm, I do 10-20% weekly WC's and there is no way that I can keep up with my corals ALK and CA uptake. Were talking significant drops EVERY SINGLE DAY...

I don't even think of WC's as adding anything anymore, just export.

Is that jsut because I am still a newbie?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10072543#post10072543 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HBtank
Hmm, I do 10-20% weekly WC's and there is no way that I can keep up with my corals ALK and CA uptake. Were talking significant drops EVERY SINGLE DAY.

Is that just because I am still a newbie Hmm, is there someone with a 2-3 year old tank that can tell me what I am doing wrong?
There are many systems that really need a decent 2 part supplement system. SPS tanks can be pretty demanding . Maybe your water volume is a bit short for everything you are growing too? I mean if you can deplete the CA levels in 24 hours it would seem your tank is running on some kind of "edge" of capacity and it is time for an upgrade of some kind..

I have seen a few tanks that had more growing in them than any reef area 20X larger :) You issue is more related to being an "Oldie" than a "noob" :)
 
I was being kind of sarcastic. lol. I need to go to bed.

But yeh, I need all kinds of upgrades. I need a kalk or calcium reactor ATM.

I dose TLF 2 part at the moment, but my next top off upgrade will solve that,
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10066441#post10066441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tkeracer619
LobsterOfJustice, what kind of numbers do you get with the 50/50 mix and how long do you age the water before testing?

Honestly, I dont test every batch. I know I should. But when I do test it, the numbers are about Ca 425 and alk 9. Mg is low at around 1180 though. I ordered some MgCl and MgSO4 from online so I can bump it up before water changes. The water mixes at least a few days before I test it, mixes about 1.5-2 weeks before I use it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10061427#post10061427 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LarryW
here is a blurb that one of our LFS owners got from a Seachem rep....

"I spoke with the Seachem rep a few days ago, and this is what he told me. There is a lot of propaganda about salt, which one does what, which one is better and so on. After 3 years of testing every salt base in the world, Instant Ocean is the best base salt on the market period. What you add to it is what makes the difference.

Seachem, you may not know uses the IO base salt, and then mixes there own from there and has two salt mixes. The one we know about is there Reef Salt the other is there Marine Salt. The Marine salt is very easy to describe, it is comparable to Instant Ocean’s Reef Crystals and that is it, a very good salt. The Reef Salt is more comparable to Tropic Marin with these main differences, first TM does have more trace elements in the salt, they are chelated so they release over time. This is great if you can use the salt within six months from its mix date, if not they break down in the mix are rendered useless. The Seachem salt is also rich in trace elements that can be subsidized with additives. In addition it will buffer the PH to 8.4 and uses a Boron level that is three times that of natural seawater to help maintain a high KH. And no!!! There is no study or evidence in any way that has determined that this is too high of a level for anything, in fact if you look into TM you find the same thing. Also the Seachem Reef Salt has elevated levels of Calcium, Strontium and Iodide (not toxic iodine) for advanced coral propagation. So for my money, I will use the Seachem Reef Salt, with TM at an average of $70-75 a bucket and the Seachem at an average of $45-55 a bucket plus $10-15 for a 250mL bottle of Reef plus. To me it is an easy choice, and for those whom prefer the TM by all means, it is an excellent salt!!! I just can’t justify the expense when the Seachem is as good and cheaper.

Just some facts from Seachem and an independent lab study.

Scott"




Interesting information........I had also heard from someone else that Seachem salt(s) uses IO as a base and then adds stuff to their own specs. I feel Seachem is an excellent salt mix.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10069237#post10069237 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aquarius77
Its no wonder you are buying so much damn salt Randall...
With all the talk about "supplements" I think we sometimes forget that as important as "what we add" is "what we remove" from the systems in the form of "pollution" (Besides I just like all the buckets I collect :) )

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10069193#post10069193 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CeeGee
do you keep SPS?
I have kept SPS tanks and yes I ran homemade 2 parts for them when they needed it. However, using kalkwasser for 100% of the topoff kept the CA levels between 380 and 425 as long as I stayed on my weekly 20% water changes. (Alk was never an issue)
 
Im with Randall_James on this... however i think everyones tank is different.

I do nothing in my tank bu add calcium everyonce in a while and some buffere here and there. I just mainly rely on my water changes weekly to keep my 90g sps/lps tank lookin good. Ive used IO on my 29g and 90g and never have had a noticeable problem. Like RJ said.. I just look at how my fish and corals are doin and react to that.
 
Don't understand how no one is using the most obvious salt choice...

Morton's


...it's "iodized" so you don't have to dose iodine (or worry if a fishie cuts itself on a rock)...


:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10069281#post10069281 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vessxpress1
Plain IO salt is 'mainly' intended for fish only tanks. An IO rep said it himself. Plain IO is fine for fish only but if you want to use it for reefs, it's best to add what's needed.

If you don't want to do that, than Reef Crystals is intended for reef tanks.

I've been using RC for over a year now and love it.

This gets hashed over, every other day here.

Thats absolute crap.


Its the same line that TM gives, saying that "Pro is for users with Calcium Reactors"

IE, they charge you more so theres less alk and Ca in the salt. And people pay for it.


IO is a phenomenal salt, and is cheap. IME, its better than RC once supplemented, and it doesnt have the phosphate issues that TM has.


The only difference I've seen in RC over IO, is higher Ca. In my experience, that means it doesnt mix as easy. Ca is SO cheap to supplement ($10 for a 50lb bag of dowflake), that I'd rather the salt be the way it is.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10086420#post10086420 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
The only difference I've seen in RC over IO, is higher Ca. In my experience, that means it doesnt mix as easy. Ca is SO cheap to supplement ($10 for a 50lb bag of dowflake), that I'd rather the salt be the way it is.

And magnesium. :D
 
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