Is it about time to change the T5 light bulbs? Par meter readings
- Thread starter kangym
- Start date
Thought I would share my PAR readings from my new lighting setup.
First off, thanks the Zachtos for letting me borrow his meter.
For set up:
3 - LumenArc Mini Reflectors with glass shields
3 - 250 watt Radium 20K bulbs
2 - Galaxy Dual 250watt electronic ballasts
The reflectors are about 5" off the water.
I tried to measure towards the middle of the tank, and I put the numbers over the coral I measured it next to. Its wasnt quite middle towards the bottom. So heres what I have. Hopefully it helps somebody.
Just out of the water at the top is cracking 1100.
First off, thanks the Zachtos for letting me borrow his meter.
For set up:
3 - LumenArc Mini Reflectors with glass shields
3 - 250 watt Radium 20K bulbs
2 - Galaxy Dual 250watt electronic ballasts
The reflectors are about 5" off the water.
I tried to measure towards the middle of the tank, and I put the numbers over the coral I measured it next to. Its wasnt quite middle towards the bottom. So heres what I have. Hopefully it helps somebody.
Just out of the water at the top is cracking 1100.
Thank you for sharing, Gablett
PAR numbers look very good with glass shield, and you should be able to keep sps anywhere in your tank. How old are your radium bulbs?
I notice there is no fan in your light hood, and your reflectors are very close to the water line. Good ventilation will help in PAR production, and raising your reflector to 12-15 in. above the water level will get better light spreading and more space to work into your tank. It looks like your light hood only allows you to raise the reflector to 10 in. above water line, but you could remove the glass shield to compensate the PAR loss.
PAR numbers look very good with glass shield, and you should be able to keep sps anywhere in your tank. How old are your radium bulbs?
I notice there is no fan in your light hood, and your reflectors are very close to the water line. Good ventilation will help in PAR production, and raising your reflector to 12-15 in. above the water level will get better light spreading and more space to work into your tank. It looks like your light hood only allows you to raise the reflector to 10 in. above water line, but you could remove the glass shield to compensate the PAR loss.
I had the lights more like 8 to 9 inches off the water and the par was over 100 less everywhere. I have fans in the back of my canopy now that run off my reefkeeper and I have no heat probs. Never gets over 81.
I actually tested with the glass and without and the par was exactly the same. So the glass appears to not effect the par at all.
I'm ok with the light spread I have because it gives me highly varied par levels for placing different corals since I want a mixed reef.
I was told 350 is minimum for successful sps growth and color. Is that off base? Some say I can keep sps on the sand almost in my tank but if its 350 minimum then that's not even close to true. Very surprised how quickly it drops off.
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I actually tested with the glass and without and the par was exactly the same. So the glass appears to not effect the par at all.
I'm ok with the light spread I have because it gives me highly varied par levels for placing different corals since I want a mixed reef.
I was told 350 is minimum for successful sps growth and color. Is that off base? Some say I can keep sps on the sand almost in my tank but if its 350 minimum then that's not even close to true. Very surprised how quickly it drops off.
Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
I would say that 200 is a good number for SPS. But they have no problem looking and growing great in as low as 100.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Guys I just bought the Apogee MQ-200 Quantum Meter. I will be posting PAR measurements within my tank under my ATI Sunpower Hybrid LED/T5 light.
I did some quick measurements and I was extremely impressed with initial measurements. I have a 47G SPS reef tank with 5x24watt T5's and 24xCree LED's at 700mA (just under 60watts); total 180watts.
I always estimated my PAR levels to be a little better than a 250w halide setup. Initial measurements show this estimation was quite on target and possibly even better.
Here is a few taster measurements: (Sunpower mounted 7.5inches above waterline)
PAR on sandbed (center of tank): 390
PAR on Sandbed (against front glass): 295
PAR 3inches below ATI Sunpower (beneath LED's): 2500+
I have the following T5 tubes front to back:
ATI Blue+
GE 6500K White
Cree LED's
ATI Purple+
ATI AquaBlue Special
ATI Blue+
I need a few weeks to get the measurements done. Watch this space. :lol2:
Note that Apogee reccomend using the Sunlight calibration when testing LED's and they state that the meter under reads the blue portion of the spectrum. So my numbers are probably about 5-8% higher. :smokin: Smoking!
PS: My T5 tubes are almost 5 months old too!
Photo of my light during testing phase (hence no ATI reflectors on at the time):
I did some quick measurements and I was extremely impressed with initial measurements. I have a 47G SPS reef tank with 5x24watt T5's and 24xCree LED's at 700mA (just under 60watts); total 180watts.
I always estimated my PAR levels to be a little better than a 250w halide setup. Initial measurements show this estimation was quite on target and possibly even better.
Here is a few taster measurements: (Sunpower mounted 7.5inches above waterline)
PAR on sandbed (center of tank): 390
PAR on Sandbed (against front glass): 295
PAR 3inches below ATI Sunpower (beneath LED's): 2500+
I have the following T5 tubes front to back:
ATI Blue+
GE 6500K White
Cree LED's
ATI Purple+
ATI AquaBlue Special
ATI Blue+
I need a few weeks to get the measurements done. Watch this space. :lol2:
Note that Apogee reccomend using the Sunlight calibration when testing LED's and they state that the meter under reads the blue portion of the spectrum. So my numbers are probably about 5-8% higher. :smokin: Smoking!
PS: My T5 tubes are almost 5 months old too!
Photo of my light during testing phase (hence no ATI reflectors on at the time):
Last edited:
Wow, Sahin, I am afraid that beast is equivalent to 400W MH.
Could you tell us more about your LEDs setting, 1 or 3W? blue/white ratio? and your lens combination?
When you do the PAR reading, could you also give us the separate readings of T5 only, LED only, and mixed of two if possible. Thanks in advance.
Could you tell us more about your LEDs setting, 1 or 3W? blue/white ratio? and your lens combination?
When you do the PAR reading, could you also give us the separate readings of T5 only, LED only, and mixed of two if possible. Thanks in advance.
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
That's awesome. How does the price of the unit compare to the Powermodule?
reefknight
New member
kangym - I noticed that you added a couple of clams, how are they doing thus far?
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
OK, here are the PAR measurements of my ATI Sunpower HYBRID 5x24watt T5 and 24 Cree LED's @ 700mA (approx 60watts). 20 of the LED's have 80degree lens, the remaining 4 have 60degree lens.
The tank is 18" tall, 30" long and 20" front to back. The water height is 16" from top of sand to water surface.
Excuse the bad quality of the photo. For some silly reason I took the photo at an angle, but here goes:
Some notes about the various numbers:
1. PAR measurements were made using the Apogee MQ-200 PAR Quantum meter. This meter underreads the PAR from narrow spectrum LED's (mainly in the blue section) by around 10-20%, so my PAR levels are probably a fair bit higher.
2. The T5 tubes, bar the actinic tube, are about 5 months old. When I put in new tubes I expect the PAR levels to increase slightly.
3. The light unit is suspended 7.5" above the waters surface. If I mount it lower, PAR levels get too high causing bleaching due to photoinhibition.
4. Numbers in RED are PAR readings on the SAND. The 175, 265,175 are right against the FRONT glass. 175's are in the extreme corners. The 390-A is the PAR in the centre of the tank on the sand bed.
5. PAR levels 1" below the unit are in excess of 2500!!!
6. PAR numbers just below the surface of the water is around 1100!
I am extremely impressed with this light modification. Since the purchase of the PAR meter, I have been looking at various PAR measurements carried out by other hobbyists and it appears that the PAR levels are in similar range to 400watt halide systems. All in all, I am very happy with the PAR levels and the possibility of supplying very good spectral quality via the use of various T5 tube combinations.
The unit has the following T5 Tubes/LED front to back:
Front:
ATI Blue+
ATI AquaBlue Special
Cree XR-E LED's: 20 x Royal Blue + 4 x Blue
KZ FijiPink
Arcadia 420nm 03 Actinic
ATI Blue+
The actual look of the tank is not as blue as the photo. It is a very nice 20K look.
Not content with modding my ATI Sunpower with high power LED's I decided to add LED "moonlights" as well:
A shot showing the "moonlights" in use:
Hope you enjoyed reading this. :wavehand:
The tank is 18" tall, 30" long and 20" front to back. The water height is 16" from top of sand to water surface.
Excuse the bad quality of the photo. For some silly reason I took the photo at an angle, but here goes:
Some notes about the various numbers:
1. PAR measurements were made using the Apogee MQ-200 PAR Quantum meter. This meter underreads the PAR from narrow spectrum LED's (mainly in the blue section) by around 10-20%, so my PAR levels are probably a fair bit higher.
2. The T5 tubes, bar the actinic tube, are about 5 months old. When I put in new tubes I expect the PAR levels to increase slightly.
3. The light unit is suspended 7.5" above the waters surface. If I mount it lower, PAR levels get too high causing bleaching due to photoinhibition.
4. Numbers in RED are PAR readings on the SAND. The 175, 265,175 are right against the FRONT glass. 175's are in the extreme corners. The 390-A is the PAR in the centre of the tank on the sand bed.
5. PAR levels 1" below the unit are in excess of 2500!!!
6. PAR numbers just below the surface of the water is around 1100!
I am extremely impressed with this light modification. Since the purchase of the PAR meter, I have been looking at various PAR measurements carried out by other hobbyists and it appears that the PAR levels are in similar range to 400watt halide systems. All in all, I am very happy with the PAR levels and the possibility of supplying very good spectral quality via the use of various T5 tube combinations.
The unit has the following T5 Tubes/LED front to back:
Front:
ATI Blue+
ATI AquaBlue Special
Cree XR-E LED's: 20 x Royal Blue + 4 x Blue
KZ FijiPink
Arcadia 420nm 03 Actinic
ATI Blue+
The actual look of the tank is not as blue as the photo. It is a very nice 20K look.
Not content with modding my ATI Sunpower with high power LED's I decided to add LED "moonlights" as well:
A shot showing the "moonlights" in use:
Hope you enjoyed reading this. :wavehand:
