Just finished Nilson kalkwasser reactor

[plankton]

Fun project!

Used 24" of 4" acrylic and several 4" PVC fittings. Spectrapure litermeter injects 1.5 liters of RO/DI per day into reactor. Neptune Aquacontrollers runs MaxiJect 500 (100 gph) 5 minutes of each hour. Most 1/4 poly fittings are either Jaco or Speed. Simply epoxyed 5/8 (1/2 id) schedule 80 pipe to mount pump to in center PVC piece.

 

[dattack]

Nice job.

Can you tell me how thick the acrylic tubing is?
Does a 4" acrylic tubing fit into 4" PVC fittings? Or was it 4.5" tubing?

Can I use 1/8" thick acrylic tubing?

What brand of epoxy are you using and where do you get it?

Lastly, is that just a thread PVC cap at the top?

Thanks

 

[plankton]

dattack,

I mostly followed the design by Fabrice:

VisioReactor2

Bought most of the 4" pvc from PlumbingSupply but you can get some from local HD/OSH stores.

You can get the clear 4 1/2 acrylic from AES:

AES

AES says the acylic tubing is 4 1/2" in diameter and fits perfectly in 4" PVC fittings (e.g. coupler, slip end and slip-threaded male). I used regular purple primer/PVC cement on everything with no problems at all. Some acrylic folks recommend WELDON 16 which would work as well.

Used 1/4 poly tube since it is resistant to the high pH of kalkwasser (pH=12) and is cheap. I prefer Jaco connections and tap'ed them directly into the PVC since it looked nicer. [1/4-18 NPT tap using 7/16 drill].

Maxijet is a perfect pump for this application because it can handle being turned on/off like a wave maker. Also, the 5/8 and 1/4 pump connectors are easy to adapt to using standard 1/2 ID riser pipes. Simply epoxy'ed risers to the PVC coupler, then used standard 1/4 and 1/2 hose and stainless hose clamps to attach pump.

Yes, just a threaded cap on top. Here's roughly the inventory, but I won't tell you step by step how to do it because others have and that would take all the fun out of it. VBG

Make sure bottom slip end cap is ROUNDED so CaOH doesn't solidify in the corners. to route input water to bottom of reactor simply epoxy 1/4 poly tube to Jaco connection taped into the threaded end cap.

NOTE 1 - Make sure you manually prime the reactor before turning on the dosing pump otherwise the back pressure might be too great.

NOTE 2 - Make sure the output is on the very top of the reactor to ensure that there is no hidden pockets of air that would contribute CO2 and make it harder to inject water into the reactor. Also, the dosing line should come from near the top to reduce backpressure; unless you have a very powerful dosing pump.

NOTE 3 - Allow pipe joints to fully cure (24 hours) before drilling into them lest the joints come separate. Also, run tap water through reactor before filling with CaOH to remove as much of the dirt, unreacted glue and any pvc turnings.

1 - 24 inch 4 1/2 acrylic tube from AES
1 - 4" PVC coupler
1 - 4" slip end cap (ROUNDED!)
1 - 4" threaded end cap (ROUNDED!)
1 - 4" toilet (ABS) thingy for use as base
2 - 1/2"ID 2" long riser for pump
1 - Maxijet 500 (100 GPH)
1 - 20 foot of 1/4 poly tube
2 - Jaco connectors (male threaded)
1 - purple primer
1 - PVC cement
1 - epoxy (that will work on plastic) or WELDON 16
1 - misc 1/2" id risers, elbo needed to route pump output to bottom of reactor

1 - diaphram dosing pump; I used an old spectrapure litermeter
Initially set to 1.5 liters per day.
1 - timing device; I used X-10 appliance controller and Neptune

'OSC 005/060 ON/OFF PMP On' Meaning turn litermeter on for 5 minutes out of each hour. I think. LOL

Scott

 

[dattack]

Thanks for the details. Going to attempt to make one now.

 

[mgk65]

Looks good!

I love the look and functionality of the Jaco fittings. I'll have to incorporate those into my next reactor.

I've been running my similar design now for 10 months and have some observations and suggestions to make:

1) I did not use the rounded bottom and put the tube directly into the toilet flange. I haven't seen any buildup in the bottom.

2) I went through 2 Maxijet 400 impellers in 4 months. They just are not strong enough. I would recommend sizing the pump bigger, i.e. 900 or 1200.

3) If you make the reactor very tall, you may want to install a drain valve near the bottom.

4) I put in some 1/2 PVC on the inside to allow a bigger recirulation range.

5) I find myself getting into the reactor about every 2-3 weeks to replenish the kalkwasser. This is probably due to me using Mrs. Wages Pickling Lime. You may wany to consider using a different cap. Geo, (George Weber), recommended to me to try a test cap. This is a rubber insert with a test cap inside. This makes getting in and out of this type of reactor much easier.

6) About the Mrs. Wages or Balls Pickling lime - There is a lot more residue when using the pickling lime rather than a purer kalkwasser. Usually have a grayish residue that I remove every 2-3 weeks. When I used some Two Little Fishies Kalkwasser powder, there was very little white residue. I recently purchased a 4 lb container of ESV kalkwasser for $18. Haven't tried it yet. Should last quite a while.

Article on reactor:
http://www.thesea.org/asp/pvcreactor.asp

Thread on reactor:
http://www.thesea.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=220&SearchTerms=kalkwasser

mgk

 

[plankton]

mgk,

Thanks for the ideas (especially #3 - Drain Valve).

I read in another thread somewhere that Mrs. Wages Pickling lime is coarser than pure CaOH and may lead in trashed impellers. I don't have any facts but that is just what I read.

I'm happy with the Maxijet 500 thus far because the unit is only 30" tall only causes the plume of unreacted CaOH to reach about 1/3 the way up. So, I think 100 gph is about right. We shall see how long the impeller lasts with CaOH.

Yes, I know what you mean regarding the threaded endcap. I was looking everywhere for some kind of quick disconnect but couldn't find anything. I have not recharged the reactor yet so not sure how it will go. I suspect I'll have to bring the whole unit to the sink and wash it out lest calcium carbonate deposits start causing trouble.

Thanks!

Scott

 

[North Bay 101]

Plankton,

Nice job on your reactor. I have built a couple myself and they are a great tool for your tank. I find that when my pH drops below 8.1 at night that it is time to add more powder. Using an Aquacontroller is the only way to go to have an almost hands free tank.

North Bay

 

[ShapeGSX]

My DIY Nurce blew its seal last night, and it has just been more trouble than it is worth. So I think I am going to build one of these suckers.

I have a question, though.

My RO filter feeds into a pressurized holding tank with a bladder. The bladder is inside a metal tank that is filled with pressurized air. The water pressure in the house forces water through the RO membrane and into the bladder. And then when you open the spiggot at the sink, the bladder pushes the RO water out, and with a lot of force!

As soon as pressure in the bladder starts to decrease, the water pressure overcomes it and it fills up with RO again automatically! There is one line leading to the bladder. And one line leading to the spigot at the sink (drinking water).

It seems to me that using this pressurized RO would work out great inside a Kalk reactor. All you have to do is tap into the one line that leads to the sink spigot with a solenoid. Then have the output of the solenoid go into the kalk reactor. The solenoid gets turned on by the tank water level using a float switch.

No need to mess with crazy timers to figure out evaporation rates. And no need for expensive pumps. Just an $80 Sears RO filter with 3 filter stages and pressurized holding tank.

My only concern is whether or not the pressure in the spigot line is enough to overcome the pressure of the X inches of water in the kalk reactor. Especially since the fresh water line has to go down pretty deep into the reactor's water column.

Has anyone done anything like this before?

 

[mobert]

ShapeGSX --- that is exactly how my set up is. The draw back is if you have a problem with the float switch your tank will flood out. I did have mine stick once. I now have a valve between the selenoid and reactor so that only a dribble of kalk water can go in at any time. I do have to clear the very end of the out put from the reactor every couple of weeks (usually when I recharge) as it tends to get plugged.
Mona

 

[plankton]

ShapeGSX,

I thought about it but I think you still need a timer or some means of controlling how much kalkwasser is dumped into the tank to minimize the pH flucuation. You might think about a 12V selenoid and a timer? Usually the 'drinking water kits' comes with a 3 gallon presurized tank so that should be plenty of water.

Another thing to consider is the PVC/Acrylic joint (if that is what you use) since it would need to be strong enough to handle whatever pressure you apply to it. Since, I'm using a doing pump there is no additional pressure than the column of water itself. In your case, the 80PSI from the presurized tank is more than enough to overcome the height of the nilson reactor (in fact it is tooo strong and will need to be regulated).

Good luck. Sounds like you have a plan!

Scott

 

[ShapeGSX]

I don't think that the pressure will be too great in the reactor itself. If there were no way for the kalk to get out, then yes, pressure would build up. But since there is an output of the same size as the input, there should be no pressure buildup in the system.

 

[ShapeGSX]

Mobert,

Where did you get your solenoid?

I am thinking that I will use on normally closed solenoid and one normally open solenoid in series before the reactor.

The normally closed solenoid will be used with a float switch that is at the water level I want to maintain.

The normally open solenoid will be used with a float switch that is at or below the panic level for my sump.

If it ever reaches as high as the NO solenoid's switch (indicating a stuck float switch or solenoid), the feed to the reactor will be shut off. Since the float switch will be out of the water all the time, except panic situations, it should stay clean. Hopefully I could use battery power for this sucker. And hopefully the battery wouldn't run out too fast.

What do you think?

I just have to figure out where to get these two solenoids.

 

[ShapeGSX]

I already went out to Home Depot and bought a bunch of stuff for this project over lunch. A big find was a digital light timer that had 98 switch points! Perfect to turn the pump on and off! Whoohoo! It is gonna be a pain to program in 24 on and 24 off points, and even more of a pain to change them should I find that, say, 10 minutes of on time per hour isn't enough.

But for $20, I still think I got a bargain!

One more thing. I am going to use a 4" PVC end cap for the top. And I am going to drill a 3" hole in it to fit a 3" clean out adapter. Then I'll fit a 3" tee-cone test plug inside that. It should be air tight.

http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid=3&ptid=17&pid=136

The line that will feed the tank with kalk will be drilled into the top of the 4" PVC end cap, along side the 3" cleanout adapter.

Does the line that feeds the tank with kalk have to be at the very top of the unit, or do you think this idea will work? Will I have trouble removing all air from the unit? Do you have to remove all air from the unit?

 

[SweetJesus]

Guys, instead of using timers, dosing pumps, expensive R/O pressurized units etc etc etc etc.

A simple way is to use a grainger 2a554 float switch. Wire it into a home extension cord. plug both your mixing pump and feed pump (MJ 400/600) into the end. Voila. Doses a very small volume at a time. Also mixes whenever new water is added to the reactor. Simple effective. yadda yadda yadda. In my 90 with 20 sump, It runs for 2 minutes max. This is with a 1/4" outlet. So you know that not much water is getting added.

 

[mobert]

ShapeGSX --- I got my solenoid and float switch from Lifereef

http://www.lifereef.com/frame.html

it would have been cheaper to to DYS with a grainger but I didn't want to mess with it and, yes, I have been meaning to add a second float switch to shut off the power to the first float switch when water rises. I wasn't planning on adding a second NO solenoid. I also have my mixing pump plugged in the float switch along with the selonoid like SweetJesus so my kalk only mixes when water is moving through the reactor. seems to work OK, the thick portion stays in the bottom half of the reactor and the output is at the very top. It does need to be at the top to bleed out any air when you recharge.

This takes care of all my top off needs which is close to 4 gallons a day.

 

[mobert]

SweetJesus---Do you use a 1/4" check valve? How do you keep water from siphoning between your holding container and your sump?
Mobert

 

[SweetJesus]

yes, a 1/4" check valve. works great. get them through US plastics. in the last year I have had two fail on me. but for $1 I can handle that. Plus they failed when using a mj 900 feed pump. Since moving to the mj 400 or 600 feed pump, it does not blast the check valve and has lasted for over 6 months. Once again, why if your feeding the sump at the same floor level as your reactor you should use a mj 400. If feeding the kalk into the top of the main tank a mj 600. in the basement going up, MJ 900 or 1200. Also a good reason to plug both pumps into the float switch, if your top off bucket goes dry, and you pump air into the reactor, it cannot get caught in the mixing pump and ruin the impeller. This way the mixing pump just shoot the air back into the reactor always keeping prime.

 

[ShapeGSX]

I just wanted to say thanks for everyone's help here. I've placed 3 orders with 3 different companies, and probably over-ordered enough fittings to last me for the next 3 projects.

Savko was great for the T-cone test plug and some PVC fittings that I couldn't find locally, like a 4" slip to 3" female thread bushing for the top (the T-cone test plug will fit into this).

AES was great for the acryllic tubing. I also splurged on some 1/2" clear PVC.

McMaster Carr was great for the float switches and the solenoid. Hopefully this will all come together next week.

Thanks!
Josh

 

[ShapeGSX]

Plankton,

My acrylic tubing from AES ought to arrive today. I have the rest of the pieces I need already. I saw that you asked AcrylicMan how to bond acrylic to PVC.

And I saw about 3 different answers to the question!

One said to use regular purple PVC primer and PVC cement.

Another said to use PVC/ABS transition cement.

And Acrylicman said to use Weldon-16.

I ordered some "thick acrylic glue" from McMaster-Carr, and when I got it, it turned out to be a small tube of Weldon 16! So I have all of these options open to me (the other two reside at the Home Depot down the street). However, my weldon tube is very small, and I can see that I might end up using all of it just on the 4 PVC/acrylic connections.

I see that you ultimately ended up using purple PVC primer and PVC cement. Did you put the primer on the acrylic as well as the PVC?

For the PVC pipe that gets inserted into the side of the body, I'm thinking of using PVC primer and PVC cement, and then use epoxy on either side of the connection. That is if I can get the holes to be the perfect size.

 

[mgk65]

Don't be stingy with whatever glue you use...

I used regular PVC multipurpose glue, but seem to have developed a leak in one spot.


mgk