vladutz123
New member
Nobody can help me ?
LED Color Aesthetics: The Emperor's got no clothes. Or does he?
- Thread starter scolley
- Start date
TheFishMan65
New member
The ELN-60-48 will do 12 XP-G without a problem. Not sure where you get a limit of 8 from.
Do you have an update? How many violets and reds were you going to add?
I'm holding off on my build till I see some of your results.
Please don't wait on me. I'm taking my time on adding the reds. The benefit is marginal, and I risk busting the DIY fixture that lights my reef. All I need to do is hose a string on that, and I've got a problem. I'll get around to it. But I'm in no rush.
As for the violets, that's another matter. I've concluded that I can't put enough violets to be visible into my fixture without losing a lot of visible light. So I'm either going to have to completely remake my fixture, or create an add-on of some kind to my light. Bottom line, its not going to happen soon.
Sorry.
To comment on the violets I am a big fan of those right now, but further testing, an pics if I ever get around to it is needed (and if I can get my camera to pic up the difference I see). On the few arrays I'v built for my tanks they seem well worth it but you sort of need to treat them as add ons as Scolley suggests. the "pop" they produce is quite noticable when used 1:1 with whites runing at the same output, but gets drowned out when the blues are added into the mix. so right now I'm thinking that one needs to add them in equal parts to thier blues to get noticable additional "pop" with everything on. they do however produce amazing effects as moon lights! with only a few of them on.
The reds I imagine would help but I think high CRI white LEDs would be better. If only someone was selling them in the hobby. I cant find a source for anything over an 80 CRI. Most are 75 for cool white. (flourescent and many metal halide are over 90 CRI) filling in with reds, greens, turquios seems to be how people are compromising but I'd rather find good whites.
I have been toying with the idea of using RGB LEDs though to get some of both with out all the disco effect that goes with individual colored LEDs. Anyone tried this with high power LEDs on thier builds?
The reds I imagine would help but I think high CRI white LEDs would be better. If only someone was selling them in the hobby. I cant find a source for anything over an 80 CRI. Most are 75 for cool white. (flourescent and many metal halide are over 90 CRI) filling in with reds, greens, turquios seems to be how people are compromising but I'd rather find good whites.
I have been toying with the idea of using RGB LEDs though to get some of both with out all the disco effect that goes with individual colored LEDs. Anyone tried this with high power LEDs on thier builds?
louisxyz
New member
First of all, Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, great job!
I've been reading the whole thread in the past days, it's been really helpfull helping decide the combo I would like. But, I still have few questions. So if you could spare some time, I would like to have your view on this.
Quick note, as this is about aesthetics, I'll like to say that myself, I prefer a more blue/violet (but not too violent :uzi: ) scheme than more yellowish.
My combo will consist of the following color, but haven't decide yet on some ratio:
10 RB(455nm) and B (470nm)
8 NW and CW (12000K)
4 Violet (420nm)
2 deep red (660nm)
What's your thought on the blue and the white ratio, would the 12000K be even necessary or only NW is ok?.
Also, what's the "perfect temp" for NW ?
The last that was'nt discuss much was about lenses, I understood from my reading, that it was better to leave the red without one, what about the violet one?
My tank is 24'' deep, and I like to have the fixture a little higher so I was going for 60* on blue and white.
Thanks in advance, and let's keep the light
I've been reading the whole thread in the past days, it's been really helpfull helping decide the combo I would like. But, I still have few questions. So if you could spare some time, I would like to have your view on this.
Quick note, as this is about aesthetics, I'll like to say that myself, I prefer a more blue/violet (but not too violent :uzi: ) scheme than more yellowish.
My combo will consist of the following color, but haven't decide yet on some ratio:
10 RB(455nm) and B (470nm)
8 NW and CW (12000K)
4 Violet (420nm)
2 deep red (660nm)
What's your thought on the blue and the white ratio, would the 12000K be even necessary or only NW is ok?.
Also, what's the "perfect temp" for NW ?
The last that was'nt discuss much was about lenses, I understood from my reading, that it was better to leave the red without one, what about the violet one?
My tank is 24'' deep, and I like to have the fixture a little higher so I was going for 60* on blue and white.
Thanks in advance, and let's keep the light
going for between 10-14k
going for between 10-14k
So I had planned on building my new fixture for my 300 gallon wide tank over a year ago, but it has yet to happen. I am now beginning to research everything again and was interested in knowing what everyone's opinion would be on the following combination.
32 NW xm-l at .7-1 amp (60 degree optics)
96 RB xt-e at 350-600 mA (60 degree optics)
16 Blue xp-g at 350-600 mA
16 True Violet at 350-600 mA
8 Turquoise at 350-600 mA
8 Deep Red at 350-600 mA
Total of 176 LEDs
Would this be a good combination to get me in the 10-14k, as well as be able to sufficiently light my tank (it has sps) or should I change/add some?
going for between 10-14k
So I had planned on building my new fixture for my 300 gallon wide tank over a year ago, but it has yet to happen. I am now beginning to research everything again and was interested in knowing what everyone's opinion would be on the following combination.
32 NW xm-l at .7-1 amp (60 degree optics)
96 RB xt-e at 350-600 mA (60 degree optics)
16 Blue xp-g at 350-600 mA
16 True Violet at 350-600 mA
8 Turquoise at 350-600 mA
8 Deep Red at 350-600 mA
Total of 176 LEDs
Would this be a good combination to get me in the 10-14k, as well as be able to sufficiently light my tank (it has sps) or should I change/add some?
lowfi
New member
Hi guys,
So I posted this in the DIY LED thread but I figured the color thread would be a better spot for it. What do you all think about this color combination/ratios? I will be putting it over a 90gallon with a 44"x11.5" opening. The LED's will be roughly 8" off the water and I am planning on going 80% SPS/ 20% LPS. Do I even need optics when the LEDS are only going to be 8" off of the water? I was planning on purchasing 80* optics. I am also considering buying the extra 12 LED UV package from RapidLED as a supplement as Ive seen how much of a response the UV bulbs have been getting recently for coral pop. I figure I could sneak in a small strip somewhere in my hood
Without further adieu..
Here is the ratio that was suggested in another post...
32 Royal Blue
6 Cool White
6 Neutral White
4 warm white
And here is my hypothetical lineup in the strings (4 rows of 12)..
RB RB RB CW RB WW RB CW RB RB RB RB
NW RB CW RB NW RB NW RB CW RB RB NW
RB WW RB NW RB WW RB NW RB WW RB RB
RB RB RB RB CW RB CW RB RB RB RB RB
What do you guys think? I was debating for a long time adding in some green or reds, but I figured the WW should take care of that. Also without the other colors, I wouldnt be as complicated. Please feel free to slaughter this if you'd like. I'm definitely open to any suggestions or input you guys may have. Thank you so much!
~Low
So I posted this in the DIY LED thread but I figured the color thread would be a better spot for it. What do you all think about this color combination/ratios? I will be putting it over a 90gallon with a 44"x11.5" opening. The LED's will be roughly 8" off the water and I am planning on going 80% SPS/ 20% LPS. Do I even need optics when the LEDS are only going to be 8" off of the water? I was planning on purchasing 80* optics. I am also considering buying the extra 12 LED UV package from RapidLED as a supplement as Ive seen how much of a response the UV bulbs have been getting recently for coral pop. I figure I could sneak in a small strip somewhere in my hood
Without further adieu..Here is the ratio that was suggested in another post...
32 Royal Blue
6 Cool White
6 Neutral White
4 warm white
And here is my hypothetical lineup in the strings (4 rows of 12)..
RB RB RB CW RB WW RB CW RB RB RB RB
NW RB CW RB NW RB NW RB CW RB RB NW
RB WW RB NW RB WW RB NW RB WW RB RB
RB RB RB RB CW RB CW RB RB RB RB RB
What do you guys think? I was debating for a long time adding in some green or reds, but I figured the WW should take care of that. Also without the other colors, I wouldnt be as complicated. Please feel free to slaughter this if you'd like. I'm definitely open to any suggestions or input you guys may have. Thank you so much!
~Low
Crit21
Active member
Actually, blues produce twice the photosynthetic response than white.
Crit21
Active member
UV light is descructive to coral tissue. Many studies have confirmed this.
Red wavelengths disappear by 10m depth, and most corals used in the hobby come from much deeper, up to 25m. It's also been shown in at least three studies I can think of that red actually causes a reduction in coral growth, and promotes bleaching.
Crit21
Active member
That's only true if you run them in parallel, which I wouldn't advise. If you put them in series you'll end up with a lower voltage drop across each LED, but the driver will keep the current the same.
Crit21
Active member
You're good with any combination of wavelengths between 400nm and 500nm. Photosynthetic response drops off significantly above 500nm.
Crit21
Active member
Burned optics? I suspect you're driving the LED at the ragged edge of it's current capacity (despite the claims of the manufacturer). Why not use a driver that limits current to 500ma or less? You'll extend the life of the LED dramatically. Most LEDs don't last long if they're running above 100 degrees F.
Crit21
Active member
Hmm. Most people prefer the shimmer effect. It's much more natural in appearance.
Crit21
Active member
Where did you order yours from?
RapidLED's are rated @ 700mA - http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-247/Violet-UV-3W-LED/Detail
Yeldarbj, hows this:
i've opted for 1:1 ratio on the B vs V for an easier setup. Keeps the LED placement evenly distributed.
I may run the 2 on seperate drivers ELN-60-48P/D's will depend. I like the idea of a dusk\dawn appearance.
I'd advise avoiding any wavelength below 400nm to avoid damaging tissue. I'd also ditch the reds. Dana Riddle and others have proven that red is not a desirable wavelength for all except the shallowest-growing corals (<4 meters). You may also end up supplying a wavelength upon which undesirable algae would thrive.
Crit21
Active member
I realize the thread is focused on aesthetics, but I'll take a much greater growth rate and pigmentation over slowed growth any day.
Here are a few quotes from Dana Riddle (coral researcher and major contributor to AdvancedAquarist magazine) from last year:
"I can say with a high degree of certainty that red wavelengths are detrimental to zooxanthellae pigment content and health."
"Dr. Kinzie published his experiments with red light and zooxanthellae in the late 20th century. He realized red light was a regulating mechanism for either the number of zooxanthellae and/or the content of their photopigments (chlorophll a, c2, peridinin, etc.). In laymen's terms, this regulation is referred to 'bleaching'."
And, "other peer-reviewed works have confirmed coral growth is greatest when corals are maintained in conditions of deficient (natural) amounts of red light."
Here are a few quotes from Dana Riddle (coral researcher and major contributor to AdvancedAquarist magazine) from last year:
"I can say with a high degree of certainty that red wavelengths are detrimental to zooxanthellae pigment content and health."
"Dr. Kinzie published his experiments with red light and zooxanthellae in the late 20th century. He realized red light was a regulating mechanism for either the number of zooxanthellae and/or the content of their photopigments (chlorophll a, c2, peridinin, etc.). In laymen's terms, this regulation is referred to 'bleaching'."
And, "other peer-reviewed works have confirmed coral growth is greatest when corals are maintained in conditions of deficient (natural) amounts of red light."
i've got a question or two...
i'm in the process of building a 180sps. for lighting this is what i have planned.
this is my first led project so i have no experience.
72 xt-e rb
36 xm-l nw
9 xp-e cb
9 3w uv
i want to spread them equally on 3 heatsinks. what size heatsinks would be best.
for drivers i was thinking
1 http://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-hlg-185-42b-dimmable-driver/
and 5 http://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-eln-60-48d-dimmable-driver/
would that be a good way to do that or should i just run them all off 48d's.
for dimming they'll be hooked to an apex.
i'm in the process of building a 180sps. for lighting this is what i have planned.
this is my first led project so i have no experience.
72 xt-e rb
36 xm-l nw
9 xp-e cb
9 3w uv
i want to spread them equally on 3 heatsinks. what size heatsinks would be best.
for drivers i was thinking
1 http://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-hlg-185-42b-dimmable-driver/
and 5 http://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-eln-60-48d-dimmable-driver/
would that be a good way to do that or should i just run them all off 48d's.
for dimming they'll be hooked to an apex.
TheFishMan65
New member
I would run the RBs off of one HLG and then the XM-Ls off another HLG. See if oyu like the color, then if not happy with the color add the blue or UV or both each with one string off of the ELN.
I would also use channel rather than one big heatsink.
I would also use channel rather than one big heatsink.
Rosscopeco
New member
Small doses of UV shouldn't pose a real problem. The UV mentioned in most LED threads is not even proper UV anyway.
All of the best looking reefs I've seen are in pretty shallow water where the sunlight still looks like sunlight. Plenty of UV and red spectrum there.
I chat with the collectors I know, and your right in saying that most corals come from deeper waters, but that doesn't mean they'd all perish in shallower waters. Most just adapt over time.
As far as the reds go I wouldn't bother. I've read the studies although I've had no problems growing corals under the RBG supplemental lighting I've been using for over a year.
I've ordered some leds and drivers to retrofit my maxspect fittings and will post my results once I get them wired up. Thanks to all those who have posted their findings so far.
All of the best looking reefs I've seen are in pretty shallow water where the sunlight still looks like sunlight. Plenty of UV and red spectrum there.
I chat with the collectors I know, and your right in saying that most corals come from deeper waters, but that doesn't mean they'd all perish in shallower waters. Most just adapt over time.
As far as the reds go I wouldn't bother. I've read the studies although I've had no problems growing corals under the RBG supplemental lighting I've been using for over a year.
I've ordered some leds and drivers to retrofit my maxspect fittings and will post my results once I get them wired up. Thanks to all those who have posted their findings so far.
Rosscopeco
New member
I think the burned optics in this case are more a sign of the optic not dealing well with the wavelength. I've noticed similar things happening on various fixtures I have on the go.
Which Dana Riddle articles are you refering to in your earlier posts about UV and red leds?
I just had a look at the most recent one and doesn't really give any indication of detriment caused by a broad spectrum light source.
