LED lighting

DrewPalmer04

New member
Hi again guys,

I just wanted to see if anyone out there ever thought about going LED and was afraid. I can contest it is cheaper, and "safer" to go hybrid like me 2xT5HO and LEDs. I wanted to extend my help to anyone needing their LED system built. I do flatscreen tv repair, so soildering some leds is VERY easy for me.:wildone:

Also, I'll usually do all the work for some corals :lmao:

I'll try and use my Nikon tonigh to get some good shots of my tank. I can say that I'm seeing better growth with the higher PAR values. (Even though my tank growth as slowed slightly from a TON of new rock being added).:rollface:



Let me know what you think!
 
Last edited:
You know it!..I just did half and half for a couple months (cost wise and coral happiness)...I'm sure they appreciate the slow move from T5 to LED PAR craziness. :D
 
How many LEDs would you recommend for a 25 gallon cube (18x18x18), so that i can grow clams in the sand bed? I was thinking of getting 12 white and 12 blue.
 
sorry for the jack..

Imo 24 crees with 70° optics is about equal to 175 mh, but no proof to back that. lol I would also do more of a 2/1 mix. b/w..
 
I would use Steve's LEDs for the build. They have a very similar lumen rating and are a fraction of the cost. I would, however, use the drivers from Rapid LED as they are much nicer. I would do 1:1 ratio with dimmers. Two dimmers= to drivers BTW. You can really tweak the look. Also, on a cube 24 should be ok. I recommend to try no optics and add on later if needed. Steve's LEDs are great with NO optics.
 
I just ordered a 48 xp-e kit from Rapid and should be getting it within the next couple of days. I will definitely be directing all my questions to this thread as I have no prior electrical knowledge and will probably need help. I am in the building phase of a 150 Gal Led lit MR. I am starting with a total of 96 LED's on dimmable drivers for my 6' long 150. Would love to know what you all think about that as far as having the ability to keep a successfull MR tank with some SPS and Clams on the sandbed.
 
You will DEF have the PAR with optics. Without optics and a tank that big you will be losing a lot of output from the LEDs. When your kit arrives there will be links to visit. Go there, they explain everything pretty well. DO NOT use too much thermal paste and go easy on the soilder. I noticed with someone's kit that they LEDs are not pre-tinned very well (AKA no pre-soilder on them). ALWAYS add some soilder to them and then the wire...THEN connect.


Best of luck...get some pictures up, before & after.


If you need help let me know.
 
You will DEF have the PAR with optics. Without optics and a tank that big you will be losing a lot of output from the LEDs. When your kit arrives there will be links to visit. Go there, they explain everything pretty well. DO NOT use too much thermal paste and go easy on the soilder. I noticed with someone's kit that they LEDs are not pre-tinned very well (AKA no pre-soilder on them). ALWAYS add some soilder to them and then the wire...THEN connect.


Best of luck...get some pictures up, before & after.


If you need help let me know.

Actually I just realized I mistated something in my OP, I didn't use Rapid I used another company that I am not sure I can mention because they are not a sponser. Anyway, I went the the JBJ Solderless connectors with Carclo optics for all Led's. I have read really great things about the optics, and also that the solderless connecters make it a lot easier of a DIY.
 
No doubt they are so much easier, but unless you went with pre-drilled heatsinks you will be in for a bit of fun. The soidlerless connectors must be screwed into the heatsink. Sort of a double edge sword, sort of thing.
 
No doubt they are so much easier, but unless you went with pre-drilled heatsinks you will be in for a bit of fun. The soidlerless connectors must be screwed into the heatsink. Sort of a double edge sword, sort of thing.

I know, not looking forward to that at all. I am going to try to fasten them with the self-tapping screws after just drilling pilot holes. I have been told that this has and can be done. I guess we will just have to see, I really do not wanna have to drill/tap 192 holes:eek:
 
I'm about 2 hours SE of St. Louis.

Best of luck to you...

I'll try my best online to help, but getting my hands on it would help a lot. But that's quite a distance.


GOOD LUCK!
 
Ya, I actually used to live over near you and still have family there. I went to RLC for 2 years and lived in Mount Vernon.
 
I just built my LEDs and heres what I learned. Making a heatsink out of U-channel isn't any cheaper than buying one. Less is more when it comes to solder. very very little. Don't get the adhesive on the top part of the LED. Buy GOOD wire strippers. I got a pair at radio shack for $17 that cut and strip at the same time. Cut my time significantly. Get different colors of wire to do the seperate colors of lights and only cut them as long as you need them. Slack in the wire gets in the way and looks ugly. Also test the lights for power and shorts before you mount them. Save you time in the long run.
 
I just built my LEDs and heres what I learned. Making a heatsink out of U-channel isn't any cheaper than buying one. Less is more when it comes to solder. very very little. Don't get the adhesive on the top part of the LED. Buy GOOD wire strippers. I got a pair at radio shack for $17 that cut and strip at the same time. Cut my time significantly. Get different colors of wire to do the seperate colors of lights and only cut them as long as you need them. Slack in the wire gets in the way and looks ugly. Also test the lights for power and shorts before you mount them. Save you time in the long run.

What is the best way to test them prior to mounting???
 
Back
Top